Jonathan Kay
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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay
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Fault diagnosed - the main loom under the dash has a short in it - the fault can be eradicated by manipulating the big thick black part of the loom. Has anyone had a similar issue and any idea how to go about fixing it? dash out job? All sorted? Jonathan
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I don't think that it's specifically connected to the ECU... Jonathan
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Once the air inside the gauge is at the same temperature and humidity as the air outside it ... condensation won't form. Imagine a cold car at the same temperature as the dry air outside and inside the gauge. The air is then replaced by warm wet air just warm enough to hold all of the water. With a big communicating slot that replacement is instantaneous inside the gauge when the air changes outside. But the new air cools on contact with the cold gauge below the point where it can hold all of the water. Water is then deposited on the surface. It's the thermal inertia of the gauge etc that's responsible, not only what's in the two air spaces. Jonathan
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Duratec service schedule. Have you got the appropriate Handbook with the factory's suggested schedule? Please let me know if you'd like a copy. ... The canonical guide to maintenance comes from Alcester Racing 7s. But I don't think that it covers current gearboxes and diffs. Are they very different, anyone, please? Jonathan
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Even with the decreased heat output of LEDs? :-) Jonathan
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Have you spotted the recent advice about the correct sequence of bleeding the brakes and adjusting the handbrake? Jonathan
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Thanks. That's very helpful. Jonathan
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Find the transducer under the dash and wrap it in tape. Previous discussion including how to find it. Jonathan
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If you'd like one please send me a Private Message with your email address and details of the Seven. Jonathan
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Have you found the Events Calendar? Where will you be based... Brighton? Jonathan
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My 1998 de Dion K has 12 mm x 1.5 thread. Is it possible that the M12 nuts that you found are a different pitch? Jonathan PS: Previous on live axles was 3/8" UNF.
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Continued here. Jonathan
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Yes, cv is the French unit for horsepower, and the unit is very close to the Imperial hp. But I haven't seen it for years and I think that kW is used in ordinary parlance: confimation or refutation equally welcome. But the use of machine translation would explain it. CV on the other hand is the abbreviation for the Fiscal "Horsepower", which is why it appeared in the names of many models of cars. Jonathan PS: Both the French and British taxation schemes distorted which engines were designed and built.
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... at a push! :-) Jonathan
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Start by cycling the hazard warning light switch a few times... does that make the indicators work normally? There's a known weakness* in the switch. If that's what it is you can clean the contacts or replace the switch. Then I'd try and find the earthing point for the instruments and check that it's a good connection. Then wiggle the "hazard warning lights" relay and check that it's seated properly. Have you got a wiring diagram? Jonathan * Which afflicted my Seven yesterday!
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I used a fly lead from the solenoid to the battery to bypass the relay but no response. I checked the voltage to the solenoid lead and it flicks to full voltage (12.5V) when pressing the starter button. Voltage dropped to ~11.5 when pressing starter button. and the battery and charging seem OK. As long as that fly lead was fat enough and you got a good connection the solenoid is prime suspect. I'd take it somewhere local... any recommendations, anyone? Jonathan PS: Thanks for the straight answer! :-)
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Jonathan
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The first thread linked from #2 has a link to the Caerbont instructions. They tell you how to get the "Calibration Number" in pulses per mile. And also how to "Drive to Set" using a measured mile, which is a lot more awkward than using GPS! Jonathan
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Is that electronic off a wheel? Caerbont or Stack or some other instrument? Calibration by button on the front or switches on the back?And what factor does it want as an input? This might be the most useful single thread. Full search of the archives. ... How about doing it with GPS instead, eg using a smart 'phone? Find a road where you can run at steady speed... compare the indicated speed and the GPS speed, tweak the calibration, and repeat... Jonathan
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... the power and torque curves did not merge at 5250 rpm. The mathematical inevitability isn't that the curves "merge": it's that torque and power have the same numerical value. Which they do: it's about 103. But on that graph they've used different scales for the two observations so the same numerical value isn't the same distance from the axis. Jonathan PS: With two measures where the values are so close I would use the same numerical scale. And I'd have the marks on the axis and any cross-ruling at the chunks of 10 rather than 15 whatevers. Both of those would reduce the likelihood of misreading. And the lines from any run would cross where expected!
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Reduced lists from the other thread: Where did you connect the jump leads? Any hint of it turning over or a click with them on? What's the battery voltage at rest, minimum as you try to start and at 3,000 rpm? What type of battery and how old? Fluid level if relevant?I can't tell if the problem lies in the solenoid yet. But yes, they're quite easy to replace. And many faults in solenoids and starter motors (and alternators) can be fixed by local specialists. Where are you? Jonathan PS: I'm interested in why you started a new thread on the same problem. I had to flick back to see what you'd already done towards reaching a diagnosis.
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Got back to a seriously drowned Seven at 1700 for the last few miles home. And no waterproofs. Indicators worked OK one side but only buzzed the other. Hazard warning lights only buzzed. Drove home with hand signals and caution. This morning armed with the accumulated wisdom of BlatChat I switched them on and off a few times. They now all work, but the buzzing still happens when I press the hazard warning light switch slightly and well before it clicks. That might be a useful sign to other sufferers. Jonathan PS: Engine also stuttered shortly after starting but was then fine. K series and that's never happened before.
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Thanks Jonathan
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Stainless will probably cause corrosion where they touch aluminium. Yes, i think that would swing it for me. Jonathan
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http://kojaycat.co.uk/WebRoot/Namesco/Shops/950000457/4F15/B806/2F7D/A0CF/62CB/C0A8/190A/1397/m8_well_nuts.jpg Often called "well nuts". I use these for fixing the jack in the engine compartment. What are the advantages and disadvantages of these and RIVNUTs for wings, please? Thanks Jonathan
