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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. Do you have the appropriate Seven wiring diagram and a multimeter? Have you disconnected the LH lamp? Please add a photo of the old wires connected to the new unit. Jonathan
  2. Always interesting to hear about how others approach this. For us it's mostly about cycling and walking rather than the Seven, but a couple of thoughts on reading the posts so far: There can be a lot of sitting around when camping and many of us value having a chair with back support. The chair kit for our mattresses is just some straps and thin rods and produces something like the photo below. If you use a stove powered by alcohol rather by gas the fuel bottle of last resort can be used by both the stove and the campers. Jonathan
  3. Does it have to all fit in the boot... it's easy to increase capacity with dry bags strapped on top. Is there any space in the passenger footwell? We cycle with all of that kit and cooking gear: two panniers and a bar bag each, and the tent on top of one rack and the mats on the other. So it might just be possible. Mats: Do you want full length? And do you want them to also work as chairs? We use Therm-a Rest full length. Tent: Robert Saunders Base-Packer 2 twin porch... more than forty years old... Jack, handle, tools and spares can all go in the engine bay. Jonathan
  4. I have the factory (and other) wiring diagrams and the layouts of fuses and relays... And Caterham usually adhered to the "standard" British colours... Jonathan
  5. There are various different active ingredient in starting sprays including diethyl ether, volatile alkanes and acetone. Carb (and brake) cleaner typically contains acetone. If there's any plastic in the manifold or nearby I'd use as little acetone as possible. Any of these could conceivably ignite as that's their purpose in life, but the risk isn't great with a short burst of spray. And of course you have an appropriate extinguisher to hand... Jonathan
  6. And best discussed before the test session. Jonathan
  7. That's good to hear. I'd guess that the LED staying on all of the time is more likely to be due to a wiring or sensor flat than an incorrect gap. Jonathan
  8. Usual plea for sharing photos of how alternative lamps illuminate the road. Best done with left-right comparisons once you've replaced only one, and with locked exposure. There are more photos in the archives of how the lamps look when you're facing the car than of how they help you see where you're going! Jonathan
  9. That's what I'd do first: • Check that the thermostat is of the rating that you want and working. • Then fill without air locks. This may include jacking up the nose, opening the heater valve, adding a bleeding T-piece, massaging the hoses and feeling and understanding the temperature changes. With that approach mine and many others start to behave themselves, and may not need the hole in the thermostat plate, as above. But I'm not aware of any downside in doing that, and if you're taking the thermostat out anyway... Jonathan
  10. This is the most commonly reported conclusion to this problem. Dash lamps of lower intensity are also available. NB some modifications might be needed if changing from incandescent warning lights to LED. Jonathan PS: But the most elegant solution that I've ever seen was on the Sunbeam Stiletto, and presumably other Imps: lamp covers which were translucent eyelids that could be flipped to decrease the brightness.
  11. Did you manage to find and download everything that you needed? Jonathan
  12. Great pictures. Caption competition? Jonathan
  13. That's very polite: if you've measured your weight you don't need to multiply anything by 9.81... ; - ) Jonathan
  14. There's a few suitable wrenches and sockets in the Equipment Register, including one in Loughborough: https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/home_folder/home_loans/tools/ NB 41 and 42mm nuts and left and right-handed threads.. Jonathan
  15. I don't know if any had release tabs. Can you stick a smart 'phone up and use the camera and screen to have a look? If that doesn't work then feel around the edge of the connector. Jonathan
  16. These can now be downloaded: Assembly Guide with wiring diagrams: https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/files/category/10-k-series-assembly-guides/ Owner's Handbook with layouts of fuses and relays: https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/files/category/11-k-series-owners-handbooks/ Andrew Revill's amended diagram, and some others: https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/files/category/18-k-series-other/ Please let me know if you have problems with any of these and i'll email them. Jonathan
  17. Found it. Please send me a Private Message with your email address. Jonathan
  18. Yes. And the K is now in the Downloads section of Technical Documents. I’d add a URL but I’m on a ‘phone. Jonathan
  19. I think so. I’ll have a look when I get home. Jonathan
  20. There used to be some disagreements about how they should be tested. It's smart to resolve that before the test. Most seem to get through fine, and i'm trying to remember whether there have been problems with modified Ks. Usual advice is to get the engine and the catalyst nice and hot. (And the brakes.) Jonathan
  21. Do you have any previous emissions values? And have you already found the relevant procedure and limits? Jonathan
  22. Does the dropping coincide with the fan cutting in? Otherwise I'd agree that the most likely fault is the sender. You can test that by measuring its resistance. But also check that the battery voltage isn't wandering inappropriately. Jonathan
  23. Private Message sent. ... The discussion about the reversing light switch and the LED unit is here, and I've reactivated it to clear up the circuitry. Jonathan
  24. Thanks Are those Green/Black and Green/White from the loom? Jonathan
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