Jonathan Kay

Good point. Jonathan

My car has been giving similar problems for about the first half or three quarters of an hour of driving, particularly on starting. And after that there's no problem? Jonathan

I found that WD40 worked better than carb cleaner to loosen an IACV but it can leave an oily residue so may need a follow up clean with carb cleaner. WD-40 is a mixture of *aliphatic hydrocarbons, that oil and propellant in a very convenient package. I'd expect it to have about the same properties as an organic solvent as petrol. So I'd suggest using petrol from the start if that residue is undesirable. And, as above that carb cleaner probably contains acetone. I can't explain why it would work better than carb cleaner. Jonathan * And we now know those are C9 to C14 alkanes. (Petrol typically C6 to C8. Diesel fuel typically C9 to C6.)

Is it similar to this problem? Jonathan

Welcome. Nothing wrong with that post. Although I was impressed when you asked about the bearings in an existing thread on the same topic. ;-) Where are you? Jonathan

Thanks. I've used carb cleaner spray before. No sure what's in it and I suspect different brands vary widely... They certainly do. Ditto brake cleaner. But acetone is pretty common. I'd always recommend trying gentler solvents such as petrol (!) and isopropyl alcohol before acetone because of the risk of damage to plastics. Jonathan

Andrew... is acetone OK on that part? (It sounds as if you know from experience!) Thanks Jonathan

Symptoms When it cut out was it always after after you'd lifted off... never at idle or with power on?Did you notice if anything electrical failed at the same time... lights, rev counter?Any recent events... any work on the car, refuelling, refuelling somewhere different, out in the wet?Can you replicate the fault now that you're back at base eg by lifting the engine speed then abruptly closing the throttle?Signs Quick look at the fuel system in the engine bay: any splits, loose fittings, signs of leakage?Quick look and wiggle at the low tension electrics: battery connections, fat earth cables, feed to ECU.What's your high tension set up? Quick look and wiggle at the plug leads and connections to plugs.Jonathan

I think that there's a duplicate post. You can't delete it but you can change the Subject and body text so that all of the responses appear in this thread. Jonathan

Please send me a Private Mail with your email address. Jonathan

Thanks Jonathan

Thanks. Lots of opportunities to borrow ideas and products from other sectors, although of course small packed volume is more important than mass in your case. Protecting yourself Biker gear as above, but probably waterproof "outers" rather than "leathers".Walking gear: I currently use a very thin Gore-Tex uninsulated outer jacket and non-breathable uninsulated outer trousers.Cycling jacket: flexible, high-visibility (so you don't need to carry another one in France), often have good ventilation, and long-backed.Space blankets are only effective (on Earth) if you don't move and disturb the layer of trapped air or actively heat it. I'd suggest walking gear instead, and probably multilayered. There's lots of 12V heated clothing available but you probably don't need to get into that, and you'd have to keep your engine (and fuel pump!) running.Protecting the Seven Things like hoods: as above, but I think you're making this a lot harder by using half-doors.Things like tarps: in the backpacking world these can pack very small, even if you don't need to get into the ultralight world. But you'll need something like a pole or a rope and somewhere to tie the other end, as with that "survival bag". (Which I wouldn't touch with any sort of pole!) It's quite likely that there'd be a sign with a pole or something where you pull off, but you won't know in advance! This would also allow cooking. :-)"Maybe just a car cover with see through bits, but one that's waterproof... ". Yes, but you'll also need to get in and out...Jonathan

Any links to purchase the side and center bullet mirrors on stalks or do I need to fabricate the mounts? I suspect that you've checked the archives, but if you haven't: https://www.google.com/search?q=site:lotus7.club+bullet+mirrors Jonathan

Is the telltale lamp visible when it's done that way? Thanks Jonathan

Two different requirements here: protection for you and protection for the Seven. On the latter you mention a tarp... you'd be happy with something that only works when it's static? Jonathan

Ah... I remember identifying those (and the discussion of snubbing) but thought that it was as a replacement rather than the original. Jonathan

How many terminals are there on the factory sensor? Jonathan

Have you got the appropriate wiring diagram (let me know if you want one) and a multimeter? All other instruments working normally? Previous discussions. Jonathan

Yes, probably stainless steel. Definitely DIY? Previous discussions with recommended methods and products. Jonathan

Nice work and a great precedent. I like the contents and the demonstration of the connection to BlatChat. Is this open to the public? Jonathan

Instructions for the Rover Robust system (black fob with two buttons): and recent discussion on synchronisation and replacement fobs. But some previous problems that have been thought to be due to the immobiliser have turned out to be in the ignition circuit or the inertia switch. Jonathan

:-) Jonathan

There's a lot of useful information scattered across various threads including part numbers, sources, supporting documents, hints and the scale of the task. It would be great if someone would summarise it all in a Guide... perhaps someone who's about to do it? :-) Jonathan

The rivnuts are ally and ive used stainless steel temporarily but intend to go nylon, although they,ve always been steel since i bought the car in 2004. Tool is a sealey professional... Thanks Jonathan

Thanks, Simon. Jonathan