Jonathan Kay

Thanks Jonathan

You can find the current final drive ratio by counting prop shaft turns: wheel turns. What would your mph/ 1000 rpm be with the current set-up? You can then compare the options with one of the online calculators (or the downloadable spreadsheet that has the Caterham ratios already entered). Have you already found one that you like? Previous discussions seem to end up with something like: The six speed box can be a lot of fun.For some people top gear with the six speed box is too short for cruising.First gear with the factory ratios in the five speed box is too short... but there are companies that will fit something longer.Jonathan

Sooty: Anything to add? Thanks Jonathan

Great offer. I think you could be very busy. Would that be on the basis of bringing batteries to you rather than equipment you could lend? Thanks Jonathan

Thanks Jonathan

Either this: https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-LKJ101110 for the plastic manifold... Mine's an 1800 K, not VVC, plastic manifold. That one from Rimmer Bros (LKJ101110) looks like this: But the one from Caterham Parts looks like this (although it isn't specified as VVC/ VVC, nor plastic/ aluminium) and I can't see the other type: Which do I need? Thanks Jonathan

13.0V at rest, 9.7V during cranking and 14.2V when running. It's desirable to see at least 10.5 V during cranking and as well as the starter not getting enough oomph some electronics will drop out below that. Charging side looks fine. Let us know if checking the connections helps. I'd now also try starting with a good external battery jumped to the existing one. Usual precautions. Preferably in another vehicle with the engine running fast. Does that affect starting the Elise? (And I'd measure the voltage during cranking with that attached.) Jonathan I ordered a Motobatt MB18U for a Seven recently. It was duff. The supplier said he'd send me a replacement, but he couldn't find one in his stock that wasn't duff. I naively ordered another one from a different supplier and that too is no good. That is extraordinary, but it's assumptions that so often cause problems of explanation. As I've discovered today!

Thank you very much Stu, and again, Andrew. Greatly appreciated. I have seen coolant seep around the head/block join to the exhaust side from the inlet manifold by capillary action. Worth a look. Thanks, Oily. Very wet under the rearmost fastener of the plastic inlet manifold/ injector housing. (Not sure what it's called.) That's the wettest point that I've found (other than the floor) and I think that it's higher than what I'd previously located. And despite hours of trying to find it on the other side I'd never looked or felt there. It's assumptions that get you every time! Does that take me back to post #2 above? What sort of Hylomar sealant, please?And I know this is is a difficult one for anyone else to answer... should I take this on myself? I enjoyed assembling the Seven but chicken out of changing the timing belt.Thanks Jonathan

After lots of drying, cleaning and probing; There's no liquid coming down from the water rail or the joint.But there is from the lower rearmost diagonal edge of the exhaust manifold.What next, please? Thanks Jonathan

Edited: Crossed with Ian's. ... and the battery is new and healthy. I'd start by checking that it's up to the job. Do you have a multimeter? What's the voltage across the terminals: At restMinimum during crankingAt 3,000 rpm?If you're using a duff battery to diagnose an electrical problem problem it can make things very difficult. And there are several reports of new batteries being duff. ... Then check all of the relevant electrical connections: inspect, wiggle, disconnect, clean and reconnect. That's all the fat ones to the battery and starter including the engine earths. And everything in the feed to the starter. ... Any work done recently? Jonathan

Ian and Andrew: thank you very much to both of you for this continuation of your relentless helpfulness. I've now read the previous discussions about that rail and its alignment. That's my morning rearranged. Thanks again. Jonathan

I'd start with the maintenance notes from Alcester Racing Sevens. Is the final section of brake line to the callipers rigid or flexible? Jonathan

1998 1800K factory standard. Overheating two weeks ago. No leaks seen. Topped it up and the overheating went away. Today I drained it, filled it up, and while it was still jacked up at the front started it in order to check that it the hoses got hot and for final top-up. To my surprise there was a dribble from the left rear of the engine. Cleaned and dried everything and started it again. Dribble reappeared within 30s. Photo below. The dribble appears where the pink (!) arrow points. The protruding metal is wet halfway across from the L and the bright line is the flash reflecting in the liquid. Then I remembered this thread. Any advice on diagnosing what's happening? The rear lower diagonal edge of the manifold doesn't seem to be damp, nor any of the hoses, rails or junctions above and nearby. Thanks in advance for all advice and suggestions. Jonathan

3 weeks in though and the speedo died on me yesterday whilst on the motorway. I've been reading often they don't earth correctly however it simply died and is sat at 0mph. Perhaps if the earthing was loose, the gauge might flicker a bit? Is this a known issue with a simple solution or shall I just start poking around the wires behind the gauge?! I'm assuming it's an electronic drive from the gearbox. Are all other instruments working OK? Do you have a multimeter and would you like a wiring diagram? Jonathan

Welcome. On another note, my insurance need a specialist or car club member to conduct an inspection of the car before issuing me with an agreed value certificate. Being based in central London, I'm wondering whether there are any known individuals who might be able to help with this? I'd start by having a word with Guy Munday. Jonathan

How about wrapping the sensor and rail to keep its temperature closer to that of the coolant and further from that of the exhaust? That could both show the cause and remove the effect. Jonathan

Changing to LED indicators might require changing the indicator relay. Jonathan

Nice physical separation of the turn indicators, GJT. Should be mandatory on safety grounds IMHO. Jonathan

Thanks for taking and sharing the photos. Jonathan

Or do I bite the bullet and spend £100 on a new Odyssey from Tayna? Bearing in mind winter is coming... Or any similar sized alternatives to consider? My recommendations, including how to order a PC680. ... assuming that you aren't going for a lithium battery yet. Jonathan

Trickle charged it overnight, everything good. Is that a dumb trickle charger or a smart conditioning charger? So how can I reassure myself as to condition of the PVR, I have a multimeter. It reads 12.8 at rest...? That's a sealed AGM type so topping up isn't relevant here. Measure the battery voltage: At rest... that's 12.8VMinimum during cranking (that's a convenient high load)At 3,000 rpm (to check that the charging side is working).Jonathan

I tried the mag mount on a blat today but on test it was found the sat nav fell off ( small tom tom 4.3 screen) Magnet not strong enough - although it does give a neat solution, probably ok for a phone. What was the case made of? If it was plastic how about gluing a magnetic metal plate to it? Jonathan

That's where I want it. But probably using a proprietary open-jawed clamp. Jonathan

You can test if it's open or a traditional LSD by jacking up the rear wheels, turning one and watching the other. Or by looking through the hole with a driveshaft out. But if you don't know that it's anything else the year and specification strongly suggest that it's an open Sierra final drive. If you would like the appropriate Assembly Guide please send me a Private Mail with your email address. Jonathan

The Guide. The Low Flying article. Some recommend the cruciform, others don't. I use the towing eye. Jonathan