Jonathan Kay

I don't know much about what's suitable for higher powered Sevens, but I'd start with this discussion of what Members are using to replace A021Rs. My second question is a respray but i guess better to start another chat for this? There's lots of experience out there. I'd add a question to this discussion. Jonathan

Welcome. Road only or road and track? How important is performance in the wet? Jonathan

The cranking voltage was 9.7V. What is it now, please? Jonathan

I cut a length off the end of one. Make sure that you use a ratchet wrench that's reversed with a lever rather than one has to be applied the other way round.. Jonathan

What risk are you trying to manage? Jonathan

Thanks for the update. What did you use, please? Jonathan

As Regin says... you may have to rewire the telltale warning light on the dash, and that might need a new earth. It will also need a pair of diodes. Does that match with the instructions, and have they supplied diodes or a widget that includes them? Do you have one or two indicator telltales on the dash? And would you like a wiring diagram? Jonathan

AFAIK they’re usually a plug-in replacement without that additional wire. Can you post any more details? Jonathan

On the petrol: ... a waste of money? I don't know what your engine needs and what's available. The water absorption can be obviated by keeping as little as you need in the conditions where it's at risk. The deterioration of polymers... hmmmm. For a long time mainstream manufacturers have been using products that can withstand high concentrations of ethanol. But the risk is much higher for anyone making specialist parts at low volumes: they might use the wrong stuff. That could affect older Sevens. And on top of that there is the sheer age of many of our cars. (There are a couple of examples where ethanol has been suspected as the cause for problems in the fuel systems of Sevens: some tank gaskets, and recently some clips in the float assembly IIRC. I'm not convinced.) Jonathan

Is there a + to using "Ethanol free gas? It won't absorb water. This is usually only a problem if fuel is left where it can get wet for a long time.Some polymers including some rubbers deteriorate when exposed to ethanol. But the appropriate resistant materials have been specified and available for automotive use for a few decades.Jonathan

Yes. Jonathan

There a few electrical points scattered around above: switched earth/ switched feed, current requirements and the need for a relay, existing wiring... It's possible to add just about any kind of car horn to a Seven without too much effort and the wiring shouldn't put anyone off. Jonathan PS: Of course a gentleman's car has town and country horns. :-)

:-) And in a previous discussion we tried to identify a solid-state siren but failed. Jonathan PS "...to save". :-)

Start with those notes and let us know if you get stuck. There might be an access hole from the cockpit: have a look before you start. Jonathan

Which gearbox is it? ... Maintenance notes from Alcester Racing Sevens. Jonathan

Yep have diagram And you've identified the far ends of the runs front and rear? Connected or not which is the concerning bit It all helps in localising the fault! If it's only when the switch is thrown and unaffected by whether the light unit is connected you've already narrowed it down a lot. Now add some heuristics: If the fault only occurred after some recent work it's likely to be close to that work.Faults are pretty rare within runs of wire that look OK on the outside and don't include connectors.Faults in exposed bits are more common than elsewhere. But it's still worth checking the connections around the back of the switch.Jonathan

Surely the oe set has a relay already in the wiring? Let me know if you'd like the wiring diagram for Sigma cars. Shirley

Does it only blow when the lights are switched on? And immediately after it's replaced? And is that affected by whether the connector near the lights is connected or not? ... Do you have a multimeter and the appropriate wiring diagram? Jonathan

For the original bits rather than anything that fits I'd start with Redline, then Holden. Jonathan

I've already expressed my preference. I was about to suggest that it might help to understand others' opinions if we worked though the most common use cases and tabulated the usability of the two main alternatives: number of clicks, signal to noise in what's returned, how much you have to think and remember to get what you need... But then Finmac posted: This time round, with the combined sections I have had a much better response - my simple conclusion is - it works much better this way! And that reminded me that we know that different users use different views, home pages, navigation methods and search tools to try and find and refind what interests them. (In my opinions this is largely because of problems with the site other than this specific issue. I've already posted details of these.) Are those differences in user behaviour affecting responses to this specific issue? Or why Finmac has reported a better response? Jonathan PS: Thanks to Shaun and others for all their work in supporting the Club.

:-) Well done, but it's a bit small. I'm guessing that you used this tool: You can probably get a bigger version to show using this tool instead: . (I can't resize images after uploading.) Jonathan

What Ian says. Cutting outer cables/ "housings" neatly isn't trivial. Advice from Sheldon Brown. On the bikes I use Park Tools CN-4 cutters or a cutting disc on a Dremel. But a trip to a friendly local bike shop might be a good solution. Jonathan

You can upload the image to this thread by following the notes in the Forum User Guide. Let us know if you get stuck. Jonathan

This might be a good point to start in the archives. It includes DVA's recommended prediction software, but there might be something more modern... Jonathan