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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. Jonathan Kay
    So it is Ethylene Glycol based so it is not a true G13. I haven't come across any coolant claimed to be "G13" that doesn't contain ethylene glycol. The interesting thing about that one is that it doesn't mention glycerol. Jonathan
  2. Jonathan Kay
    Previous discussions of G30 and G48. Jonathan
  3. Jonathan Kay
    The wording isn't identical. My guess is that they were both written from a single antecedent. And of course suggests that they didn't do their own tests. Wasn't it the Champion info that you were quoting in #34? Jonathan
  4. Jonathan Kay
    It may be useful for all of us who use G30 with our heaters! Comma G30 is an OAT coolant and hence not suitable for yellow metals. The advantages of Comma G30 over other options discussed above are: It's recommended by the manufacturer/supplier of the engine and car.It's very widely used in Sevens with Ks.Information from vendors suggests it is more suitable for use with brass, copper, lead etc than VAG G13: Wolflubes, Champion (both cited above).Jonathan
  5. Jonathan Kay
    The problem is that others have the same issu and we can’t find the proper sender. Redline part number, but one of the advantages of dealing with them is the knowledge as well as the parts. Full search of the archives, with at least one other story of a mismatched sender and gauge. Jonathan
  6. Jonathan Kay
    There are now three different methods: two that upload and one that links to images on a remote server. Start with the Forum User Guide and let us know if you get stuck. Jonathan
  7. Jonathan Kay
    Just make sure that whatever you choose, it is not only compatible with all of the metals individually but will suppress the galvanic corrosion which would otherwise occur where for example the steel liners sit in contact with the aluminium head. Definitely. But how can an individual owner know? The suppliers don't disclose the formulation, except in general terms for safety compliance. And the chemistry of corrosion inhibition is very... complex. And they don't disclose the results of even medium-term tests. And probably don't do them, or anything beyond ASTM compliance or similar. That ignorance pushes me towards being very risk averse. Which is why I use what the engine manufacturer/ supplier recommends and a lot of other owners use. Jonathan
  8. Jonathan Kay
    Thanks. Holts have replied. It is compatible with brass and copper, so it will be goodbye OAT, hello Prestone. According to Holts that Prestone coolant is an OAT. Jonathan
  9. Jonathan Kay
    Thanks Jonathan
  10. Jonathan Kay
    Excellent. Please could you add a bit more detail about the fixing of the relay: is that one point onto an existing fastener so that no other fettling was needed? Thanks Jonathan
  11. Jonathan Kay
    Holts have replied. It is compatible with brass and copper, so it will be goodbye OAT, hello Prestone. Which Prestone coolant was that for, please? Thanks Jonathan
  12. Jonathan Kay
    Bienvenue. I agree with Ian: talk to Redline. The new one that looks and fits the same seems to send different info as the temp on the gauge is slightly higher. Yes, it's possible that the resistance range of the sender doesn't match that of the instrument. There are a few common ranges but they're not standardised. We can probably work out here what you've got. Please could you add a photo of the original sender and your gauge, and tell us the year of the engine and which ECU you have. There's a current discussion of accuracy of gauges here. Jonathan
  13. Jonathan Kay
    1) out of the part of the wiring loom that has the alternator plug on it, it’s a brown & white wire. I don't have a diagram of the engine loom. But are you sure that isn't White/Brown? That's "standard" for "Oil pressure switch to warning light or gauge; or starter relay to oil pressure switch". 2) out of the part of the loom that is for the LHS headlight, it’s a black & yellow wire. See #9 above. Jonathan
  14. Jonathan Kay
    They are repairable. Jonathan
  15. Jonathan Kay
    Thanks. From the limited amount of information I've been able to find on the composition of G13 I'd want to know about the following before putting it in my Seven: The change in heat transfer capacity and viscosity following the replacement of some ethylene glycol with glycerine. But I haven't seen any adverse comments about this and I don't know that Sevens are different from anything else.The corrosion protection for the block, head etc. Ditto.The risk of corrosion to copper and brass components, lead solder etc. Possibly highest in the radiator, heater, heater valve, brass T pieces etc. VAG would have total control over avoiding those in their new models whereas our Sevens have all sorts of bits and pieces.Jonathan
  16. Jonathan Kay
    Great advice above. Could you add a photo to the wire colours? ... ... the 1993 handbook wiring diagram, doesn't give much of a clue I'm afraid. The early diagrams for Ks that I have show an oil warning light switch: main loom, item 21, BY wire. Does yours have that? Re the red warning light on the dash - that seems to be working as on start up it does stay on for around 2 seconds and then goes out on a blip of the throttle - can't see how it's oil pressure related if the there's no wire going to it, although I guess its also a warning light for the alternator producing sufficient charge The oil pressure warning light should have two wires: BY and G, item 23 in the diagram. Jonathan
  17. Jonathan Kay
    Thanks. But I thought that you were looking at alternative specs because of problems with availability rather than any advantage. Jonathan
  18. Jonathan Kay
    Is there a reason for using something that meets VW G13 rather than the coolants originally recommended for the K? Thanks Jonathan PS: Comparison of the different VW specs from a source I've never heard of.
  19. Jonathan Kay
    It had jumped down from the table where it was placed. Now that's a jump starter! ;-) ... finding its own path to earth? ... I don't know how to find well-made packs beyond personal recommendation and brand reputation. There are lots of scathing comments about low quality from the Far East, but the good ones are probably made there as well. ... Dave's recommended DBPOWER 500A 12000mAh also says: "Your jump starter will perform best when its battery is fully charged. If less than 25% charged, it may not be able to start your engine."Jonathan
  20. Jonathan Kay
    I’m sure Jonathan will have a link to one. Happy to email these to any Member. Jonathan
  21. Jonathan Kay
    Lots of experiences in the archives, overwhelmingly positive. Halfords seem to be honest about the capabilities of these jump starters in that they will not start a completely flat battery. "This unit is designed to jump start a vehicle with a healthy but partially depleted battery. For safety reasons it will not jump start a vehicle with a battery where the voltage has dropped below 3V"I don't think that I've seen that described as a problem in practice. Even terminal car lead-acid batteries usually have unloaded voltages well above that. Jonathan
  22. Jonathan Kay
    I've now got some early Assembly Guides. Earliest I have is 1988. And I've got a mix of both old and newer. And I suspect that I now have all that are available. :-) But if anyone has one that's older than 1988 or otherwise unusual please can I have a copy. Thanks Jonathan
  23. Jonathan Kay
    If I had an Assembly Manual (for either the Crossflow Seven or for the 21) I would be content but the 21 was factory built and the manual for the Seven was not passed on by the vendor, so I assume they did not receive it from the first owner. What's the date of the Crossflow Seven? I've now got some early Assembly Guides. Jonathan
  24. Jonathan Kay
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