Jonathan Kay
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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay
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How do you use search on BC. I've never had much success........... Over here. Happy to help if you want to practise. Jonathan PS: https://www.google.com/search?q=site:lotus7.club+wing+protectors
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Part number and a substitute from 2015. Which would lead to: https://www.google.com/search?q=cap+motorcraft+1613292. Some of those hits also give the Ford car on which it was used, and some parts stores only offer that way to search. Jonathan
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Comparison, with photos and part number. Jonathan
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All connectors at rear connected, wiggled, cleaned. I'd check the other connections before swapping anything, as in post #2 above: the connections at the battery, and however the alternator is earthed. And the voltage at the alternator output terminal at idle and 3,000 rpm. Which is the case - ignition light extinguishes if removed The wire coloured NY should be "Alternator to "no charge" warning light". Sounds as if that's fine. Do you also have NB: "Alternator battery sensing lead"? (Usually thin.) Jonathan
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There's quite a large range of terminal patterns, but age and country of origin does narrow it down. I'm being deliberately cautious in ascertaining what Stephen has because it's an old Caterham! The last factory wiring diagram for Ford engines (before the modern era) is 1996 and has: Jonathan PS: British "standard" wiring colours: often helpful in finding what's what.
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Well done. Jonathan
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Ditto: No problems here with the asymmetric stud and the SFBS strap. Jonathan
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How's it going? It is complicated somewhat by the immobiliser also interrupting the pump (with little information in the wiring diagram)... Is that definitely the case for both of those ECUs? Andrew discovered that it didn't in one of his experiments on Ks. Thanks Jonathan
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Yes, it's probably the one to the warning light. But it is possible that your alternator also has a voltage sensing wire. The wiring colours will probably sort that out, but you can also identify what you've got from the terminal pattern and labelling. Jonathan
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Is the switch getting a good push? And do the lights work when you push the switch closed by hand? Failure inside the switch is a common problem. And the switch isn't specific to Caterham. You might find a replacement locally. If not I recommend Redline or any of the online specialists. But there's also a common internal failure that is DIY fixable. It involves taking the switch apart when the spring notoriously makes a bid for freedom... instructions. Jonathan
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If the two thick brown cables are on the same terminal that's the output "B" terminal that you're going to test. NB: That test should be done with all of the wires still connected. What colour is the thin wire? Jonathan
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Can you tell us what wires of what thickness and colour you have on how many terminals? (There's a limited number of patterns and a reasonably standard nomenclature.) Jonathan
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Sudden failure of both brake lights with no other lights affected? How about the reversing light? If the fuse isn't blown I'd start with checking the switch: is it being pushed when the pedal is pressed, and is it making the electrical circuit? ... Do you have a multimeter and would you like the wiring diagram and fuse layout for your Seven? For a 1999 K the layout is probably: 1998 Fusebox layout.pdf Jonathan
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Thanks x2. Jonathan
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Video instructions. Jonathan
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What do SBD call that ECU? Jonathan
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You should have this bit on page 219: From that you can trace the connections upstream by using the wire number. In theory. Jonathan
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Have you got the factory wiring diagram already? Let me know if not and you'd like a copy. Jonathan
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Fascinating story. Exemplary support. Neat notes for the next victim. I can only follow a bit of it, but thanks for sharing. Jonathan
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I don't know but IIUC there's at least one report of using self-tapping screws. Full search of the archives. Jonathan
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Two reports of missing R clips. Jonathan
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CP5119 at AP Racing: diagrams, parts etc but not the bit you need. Jonathan
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Do 420Rs still have Spitfire front brakes? Exploded diagram with Moss part numbers. ... The caliper is a two pot, I believe AP Racing derived item, the anti rattle plate has a part number CP5119-170. Contact details for AP Racing. Jonathan
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Did the light used to go and off sensibly? Any recent work or changes? Voltage = 12.5V at 3,000rpm That's definitely too low. Are 90% of all alternator faults the voltage regulator? What else should I check? Could still be a wiring fault. How many wires of what colour and thickness are connected to the alternator on how many terminals? Check belt. Check all connections including at the battery and the relevant earths: inspect, wiggle, disconnect, clean, reconnect. Then measure those voltages again, and if they're still the same, measure at the alternator terminal. Jonathan
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Handheld drill? I normally use Bosch HSS, but recently had a job that defeated them. Bosch "Cobalt" were much better. NB safety precautions. Jonathan
