Jonathan Kay

"2004 K de Dion": Please send me a Private Message with your email address if you'd like the Assembly Guide with the full diagram. Jonathan

From the 1996 Assembly Guide: Xflow cooling.pdf Jonathan PS: Let me know if you'd like a copy.

I'd start by talking to: AldonBurton PowerRedline.Jonathan

(Crossed with Ian's.) From a quick search of the archives: The switch is a Land Rover part and can be changed while leaving the barrel in place.The lock is held by two bolts that are designed to shear.Jonathan

Talk to Redline? Jonathan

Do the starter and alternator have their own thick dedicated earths? If not they probably rely on an earth from the block. Jonathan

I'm not an expert on these, but: I don't think that any Sterling immobiliser fitted by Caterham has a battery in the fob.There's a history of unreliability and some Members have removed or replaced them.Here are the instructions that I once found.Jonathan

Ah... could you add a photo of your immobiliser fob so that we can work out which kind you've got. Don't worry about the orientation! ;-) Jonathan

With the failure to start I jumped to a bad connection, but that's definitely worth checking: Belt tension and conditionAlternator spinning nicelyAlternator wiring and connectionsVoltage at rest, idle and 3.000 rpm.Jonathan

I've got the Assembly Guide but you'd need a crane to download it. Jonathan

Adhesive only? Warmth + WD-40 + dental floss or similar. Jonathan

The Bosch database came up with these: I don't know how they differ, but you could check at https://www.bosch-automotive-catalog.com/en/product-search. Jonathan

Have you got the Bosch part number as well as that descriptor? Jonathan

... and then fill door cavity with sand top wth ply sheet and bricks to weigh down lining so that it bonds evenly to door. That's clever. I was just thinking about how to apply a nice compliant forceful load and got to bags with water or air but hadn't thought of sand. ... Should I use a razor blade and cut down one side ... a small incision in the the fabric. If you have to make a cut in a visible area you can hide it with piping or some other additional piece of trim. Jonathan

Duplicate.

Yes, check all the connections with a good wiggle... at a time and place where you're not too bothered if something fails! With that flickering charge warning light I'd pay particular attention to the feed from the battery to the ignition switch and everything at the ignition switch. If it fails to start again note if the warning light has come on with the ignition switch or not. Jonathan

... can you see them? All showing for me. Jonathan

Haven't had that, but if you can get a good fit it would be worth making some clamps and trying a contact adhesive. Jonathan

Factory discs? How much power? Wasn't there a recent suggestion that because there's so much better cooling at the front this isn't a reliable indicator of balance? Jonathan

This isn't a definitive solution of the type suggested by James. But with this type of problem you can sometimes get the bolt out by loading the nut/ bush/ boss against something so that it stays still: try axial pressure both in and out and angling the bolt as you unscrew. Jonathan

I think the simplest answer is just to go with experience. A lot of people seem have gone for 18psi and it has worked for them. Why not just give it a try? It's not going to be far wrong and if it feels wrong on the road you can always add a bit at a petrol station. You don't need to set a pressure now that's fixed for the whole trip. Exactly. But you can beef that up enormously by blinding yourself to the intervention.: Start with something sensible.In advance define the interventions, which will probably be increases in pressure in this case.Label the interventions with something that doesn't disclose what they are.Whenever you want to change pick one at random and get someone else to apply it.Drive for a bit and record the effects, perhaps as Ride, Handling, Other preferably with predefined numerical or categorical scores.When you've finished break the code and relate the effects to what the pressures actually were.Not too hard with a passenger, but could be interesting with garage attendants or convenient strangers performing 4! ... Revised version of #19: Meanwhile a video demo here of this very principle on a Thanks. Good to see repeated measures being made. That helps in distinguishing a genuine effect of the intervention from the background variability. (See also changes to cooling systems, dynamometer plots after tuning etc.) It would have been even better to measure the pressure again after unloading the wheel... following the on effect with the off effect enormously improves the evidence. (See also changes to cooling systems, speed limits in France, etc.) ... Blind testing, with some possibilities for when the driving is over for the day. :-) Jonathan

Isn't that usually a threaded boss fixed to the chassis? What's the problem? Jonathan

Well done. I'd carry a spare... Jonathan

tach not working ... all stopped at the same time . That's consistent with losing either the power feed or the earth to all of the instruments. the aces shift light. all stopped at the same time . I don't know how that gets its power feed or its earth. Had a new starter motor fitted a couple of days ago but all was working fine Probably related, but initial checks as in post #5 above + a good look at the wiring at the starter motor, the ignition/starter switch and the battery. Jonathan

Meanwhile a video demo here of this very principle on a Thanks. It would have been even better to measure the pressure again after unloading the wheel... following the on effect with the off effect enormously improves the evidence. (See also speed limits in France.) Jonathan Updated in #24 below.