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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. One thing I didn't check and I'd be interrested if anybody out there know what it does, it the small rectangular flatish box to the left of the inertia switch - seems to have 2 push on rubber pipes, one leading from the engine and the other to the ECU - I understand this is also something to do with the fuel system, although as none electrical didn't investigate further What engine and model is that? There's a fuel trap on the K. Jonathan
  2. I'd guess it was from photographing skateboards... Jonathan
  3. ... it has just over 4v getting to it. Where was that measuring between and was the pump still connected? Jonathan
  4. I'd start with the simple stuff: Rebleed, and top up if necessary. Heater circuit open at some point. Does the pressure cap look OK, and does it snug up nicely?Jonathan
  5. Try some anti-glare film? Jonathan PS: It hasn't bothered me. Unlike the far-too-bright main beam warning light, must fix that.
  6. You probably won't have any problems with changing to LEDs. Anything written on the bulb, and can you add a photo? Jonathan
  7. Have you checked that the fuses are blown as well as that it worked for a bit after changing them? Have you got a multimeter and the appropriate wiring diagram? High resistance will cause loss of function but it won't normally blow fuses. If it is blowing fuses I'd start by: Looking for damage to wiring or connectors.Disconnecting wires at the fuel pump and seeing if it still blows the fuse. That should distinguish between faults in the pump and faults elsewhere.Jonathan
  8. (Crossed with Andrew's) Have you got a multimeter and the appropriate wiring diagram? Likely faults: Fuse. Locate, remove, inspect. If it has blown it's worth putting another one in and seeing what happens even if you don't know the cause.Switch. Work it a few times. Inspect. Then either see if the 12V feed is being switched to the dip beam output terminal, or check continuity through the switch, or swap the dip and main beam output connections and see what then works.IGNORE: See #5 below. Relay. Locate, remove, inspect the terminals and the base. Probably easier to swap a good one in than check the old one.Jonathan PS: Great description of the fault. The details narrow it down a lot.
  9. http://www.vulco.com/centre-auto-alsace-pneus-et-services-haut-rhin-68000 open till 1800. https://centres.euromaster.fr/74-euromaster-colmar-centre-auto-et-vehicules-industriels-vl-vi-voiture-camion-utilitaire Jonathan
  10. Not parking is a pain, so probably best to investigate that first. That's what I'd do. You need to know if that fault is in the motor unit or in the wiring or connectors. Two main approaches. I'd remove the wipers first. Measure the voltage at the terminals and continuity to earth on the motor as you cycle the switch. Make temporary feeds and earths. Then disconnect the real feeds and earths from the motor and start exploring what happens when you connect the temporary leads to the terminals in the same way as the switch does.Jonathan
  11. I received the wiring details from a club member ... They're in the second link in post #2. Jonathan
  12. It should be possible to add it but I'm not aware of a plug and play solution from the archives. I'd start by: Finding out if any Sigmas have that function.Checking how the motor is wired, and whether it's the same as in Ks. Let me know if you'd like the diagrams.Reading about the wiper control units used in Ks, which is in the archives.And about the self-park function, which is one of the reasons that this isn't trivial.With help from the experts it should be possible to do most of the work on the bench, including the testing, and then to fit the new bits as a unit. Jonathan
  13. Rubber parts have a limited life. Getting the boot floor out *isn't difficult, but it's sometimes difficult to know why it suddenly worked. Jonathan * Although a recent discussion suggests that it's harder in CSRs.
  14. Any more experiences of lithium batteries in Sevens, please? Thanks Jonathan
  15. Response over here. Jonathan
  16. This has most definitely been discussed before, but what is the general consensus on lithium battery’s to replace the banner battery that has died in my R400K. I don't think that there is any consensus because there haven't been enough reports on particular makes and models. Probably the best single thread, and I'm trying to document mass and price and energy storage etc over there. But I'm totally convinced that they're worth considering. Jonathan
  17. There's one set of spring compressors in the Equipment Register. Jonathan
  18. Firstly there is a rubber grommet on each leg of the cable and I can not fathom out where they are supposed to be seated. I don't think that they do anything: previous discussions. And I've always assumed that they were there for the car for which it was originally designed. Jonathan PS: Have you seen the hints about not tightening the handbrake cable until the rear brakes are set?
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