Jonathan Kay
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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay
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Yes, original callipers. I take up the slack in the cable before every inspection. Takes two clicks to full on with both arms. Just passes. I had a chat with the inspector after last week's near miss. Very experienced Escort builder/racer. He thinks that it's inherent in the design rather than anything I can fix. Jonathan
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Previous discussions of hydraulic brake locks. NB regulatory compliance as well as effectiveness. Jonathan PS: My central handbrake is always marginal at the MoT inspection.
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... known as ‘Newton Rings’ often mistaken for ‘Moire’ patterning. Thanks. And they have a fascinating history... part of the Hooke/ Newton conflict and one of the observations that enabled Newton to estimate both the size of atoms/ molecules and the wavelength of light. And that last was an even bigger achievement than it sounds as he was strenuously arguing that it was particle-like and not wave-like! Jonathan
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Will the pump always prime - regardless of fuel level? Just wondering if the gauge wasn’t reading correctly and it was empty would it still make the priming noise? The pump will run with no fuel, but it might depend on the fuel to cool it. Jonathan
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I think that it's measuring the pressure in the gas phase in the manifold, not in the liquid fuel... Jonathan
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AFAIK it stops liquid getting into the pressure sensor in the ECU... Jonathan
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Crossed posts. Jonathan
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One thing I didn't check and I'd be interrested if anybody out there know what it does, it the small rectangular flatish box to the left of the inertia switch - seems to have 2 push on rubber pipes, one leading from the engine and the other to the ECU - I understand this is also something to do with the fuel system, although as none electrical didn't investigate further What engine and model is that? There's a fuel trap on the K. Jonathan
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I'd guess it was from photographing skateboards... Jonathan
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... it has just over 4v getting to it. Where was that measuring between and was the pump still connected? Jonathan
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Jonathan
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I'd start with the simple stuff: Rebleed, and top up if necessary. Heater circuit open at some point. Does the pressure cap look OK, and does it snug up nicely?Jonathan
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Try some anti-glare film? Jonathan PS: It hasn't bothered me. Unlike the far-too-bright main beam warning light, must fix that.
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Wipac reversing light bulb replacement or upgrade
Jonathan Kay replied to robert green's topic in TechTalk
You probably won't have any problems with changing to LEDs. Anything written on the bulb, and can you add a photo? Jonathan -
Thanks Jonathan
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Have you checked that the fuses are blown as well as that it worked for a bit after changing them? Have you got a multimeter and the appropriate wiring diagram? High resistance will cause loss of function but it won't normally blow fuses. If it is blowing fuses I'd start by: Looking for damage to wiring or connectors.Disconnecting wires at the fuel pump and seeing if it still blows the fuse. That should distinguish between faults in the pump and faults elsewhere.Jonathan
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(Crossed with Andrew's) Have you got a multimeter and the appropriate wiring diagram? Likely faults: Fuse. Locate, remove, inspect. If it has blown it's worth putting another one in and seeing what happens even if you don't know the cause.Switch. Work it a few times. Inspect. Then either see if the 12V feed is being switched to the dip beam output terminal, or check continuity through the switch, or swap the dip and main beam output connections and see what then works.IGNORE: See #5 below. Relay. Locate, remove, inspect the terminals and the base. Probably easier to swap a good one in than check the old one.Jonathan PS: Great description of the fault. The details narrow it down a lot.
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iPhone or Android? Jonathan
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http://www.vulco.com/centre-auto-alsace-pneus-et-services-haut-rhin-68000 open till 1800. https://centres.euromaster.fr/74-euromaster-colmar-centre-auto-et-vehicules-industriels-vl-vi-voiture-camion-utilitaire Jonathan
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Is it drivable? Jonathan
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Not parking is a pain, so probably best to investigate that first. That's what I'd do. You need to know if that fault is in the motor unit or in the wiring or connectors. Two main approaches. I'd remove the wipers first. Measure the voltage at the terminals and continuity to earth on the motor as you cycle the switch. Make temporary feeds and earths. Then disconnect the real feeds and earths from the motor and start exploring what happens when you connect the temporary leads to the terminals in the same way as the switch does.Jonathan
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;-) Jonathan
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I received the wiring details from a club member ... They're in the second link in post #2. Jonathan
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It should be possible to add it but I'm not aware of a plug and play solution from the archives. I'd start by: Finding out if any Sigmas have that function.Checking how the motor is wired, and whether it's the same as in Ks. Let me know if you'd like the diagrams.Reading about the wiper control units used in Ks, which is in the archives.And about the self-park function, which is one of the reasons that this isn't trivial.With help from the experts it should be possible to do most of the work on the bench, including the testing, and then to fit the new bits as a unit. Jonathan
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Rubber parts have a limited life. Getting the boot floor out *isn't difficult, but it's sometimes difficult to know why it suddenly worked. Jonathan * Although a recent discussion suggests that it's harder in CSRs.
