Jonathan Kay

As above. Is that a smart charger such as a CTEK or a traditional trickle charger? Do you have a multimeter? If you can tell us the voltage as above and/or whether it starts easily when jumped we can then narrow it down. At some point you'll need to check all of the relevant cables and connections, including the earths. ... There's a lot on K clicks in the archives... beware, there are many causes. Jonathan

From the Assembly Guide: Figure 129: Anti-roll bar connections 1. Bolt 2. Plain washer 3. Extension piece 4. Drop link 5. Anti-roll bar NOTE Droplink assembly and connections shown rotated through 180° for clarity. 9.12) Anti-roll bar connection and adjustment Shorten the droplinks as much as possible ensuring the threaded ends face in the same direction. Tighten locknuts. Remove the nuts from the ends and discard, apply Loctite to the threaded arm of the droplink and screw into the extension piece using washer (15), refer to Fig 133. Pass the threaded portion of the lower droplink through the anti-roll bar and secure with nyloc nut (fastener pack 30R011A Item 9). The position of the droplinks in the anti-roll bar determines the degree of the anti-roll given. Positioning the droplinks closer to the pivot (at the cotton reel bushes) will give more roll resistance. The same position must be set both LH and RH. The rearmost hole is the softest and forward most hole is the stiffest position. ... If you'd like a copy please send me a Private Message with your email address and details of the Seven.But that only tells you how to select a setting, not which setting to select... Previous discussions. Jonathan

a) As only the fan would continues, water pump would not continue, how long would the fan run on for on average, as I'm worried the battery will drain. I don't know... do a few test runs from hot and see? And then if there's any concern use a time delay relay? Jonathan PS: That digital voltmeter might not help in this situation, but you could measure the current to calculate the effect on the battery.

Thanks for pointing that out. I should have checked properly. Jonathan

Yes. Sevens have a lot of electrical niggles and IMHO more time is wasted on not diagnosing them efficiently than in any other area. Jonathan

I haven't got these and might have missed it, but I don't think that we've seen a definitive answer to what they are. Some Members have replaced them with "12.9 capheads". Have we got that exact spec, and are they easy to get hold of, and if not is there a recommended source? Thanks Jonathan

With 12v applied at each point the pump runs, voltage generally has been 3v You're connecting a new 12V jump feed to the circuit somewhere, and it measures 3V at the pump terminal? Can you repeat that after disconnecting the normal circuit upstream of where the jump feed is connected? Jonathan

Thanks, James. (I really miss working in a lab where we had access to basic scientific equipment.) Jonathan

Is this about right... sorry if I've missed something important. Fuel pump sometimes doesn't run.When a new jump is made to the pump's feed terminal it always runs immediately.You haven't found a fault in the normal feed circuit.Have you had a chance to measure the voltage at various points along that feed circuit when it fails to run? Or to connect that feed jump at various points other than the pump's terminal. I'd normally advise checking the earth side in detail but 2 isn't consistent with a fault there. Jonathan

Tools As above. Plus a multimeter. Getting the right jack can make things a bit easier, low entry is useful, but do you want something lightweight? Recent discussion of torque wrenches for Sevens, with, IMHO, some clear favourites. Halfords voucher, and NB this can often be used in addition to their sales and offers. Equipment for Loan Register. Jonathan

Welcome. Advice Would you like a copy of the appropriate Assembly Guide and Handbook? If so please send me a Private Message with your email address and details of the Seven. There's some great advice in the archives but some Members have problems finding it. The best method I know is to use the site-restricted Google search as in the second link in my Signature below. After some great work a lot of Low Flying is now available online. First link in my Signature. Get To Know Your Seven meetings are sometimes organised. But if in doubt just ask. Jonathan

How would you bleed a single system... pedal and shout, positive pressure, negative pressure? I use a pressure bleeder, bleeding each circuit individually. Sounds right to me. Jonathan

I sometimes cringe when I see comments that could be detrimental to the sale. But I'd make an exception to that for issues around safety. And I'm now not as sure as I was about this: as an example if you see something advertised secondhand that could be bought new at a lower price is there a greater duty to the Member who's selling or the Members who might be about to waste some money? Jonathan

As currently discussed: is the guidance available anywhere? Is it a rule or only advice? Thanks, everybody. I've just reread all of the responses. Summary:There isn't currently such a rule, and there isn't any guidance.Some Members think it is essential and adds efficiency.There has been some impolite noncommunication around specific offers.My conclusions: It's mostly the seller who loses out by not including a price.Communications should be polite, and messages should be answered. We have a Code of Conduct.There's no need for a rule.Some guidance would be helpful.Jonathan

About the only thing that I would like is a hand throttle on start to hold the idle at 500 rpm. Would you like suggestions? Jonathan

Here. Jonathan

I assumed that everyone believed you and that there was no more to be said... Jonathan

Good point. Just checked my 1998 K... and it flashes in time. (I had wondered if it was different in Sevens with only one indicator warning light and the associated funny circuit.) Jonathan

30 minutes later it will not start. It has a strong spark and the fuel pump is working fine. What happens when you turn the key... does it turn over, click or nothing? What's the battery voltage at rest, and when you try to start? Going to take the scuttle back off and see if any wires got trapped when putting it back on which may have rubbed whilst on the trailer. Yes, check all the relevant wires and connections, including earths. ...do you know which one it is or called on the fuse list? Most common layout on Sigma engined cars is probably: but there are others, including one undocumented. If that doesn't match please tell us what values or colours you have where and I'll try and work out which it is. Jonathan

Weale and Rees both have 1988. Jonathan

Can some one tell ne what the original ignition units were... Specifically for Japan? (I have the UK Assembly Guides.) Jonathan

From the same diagram, top left: Jonathan

OK. Back to basics. Can you add a photo of the whole cable? And the sender? Does the tank have another earth? Is anything else connected to that bolt to the skin? What year, model and engine is the car? And that diagram? Jonathan

Is that bolt used to earth anything else such as the lights? Jonathan

I'd be checking the fuel hoses..... if there marked R6 then they are not suitable for E5 fuel..... bear in mind the part in contact with the fuel is be bit you cant see.... It might now be wise to fit hoses etc that can take 10% ethanol... what's the type specification for that, please? Thanks Jonathan PS: There's a recent discussion about vehicle fuel hose specifications and for how long they've been required to tolerate ethanol. IIRC it included the ASTM data but not that type of specification. ... Edited: Found it, 2017. J