Jonathan Kay

You can! Jonathan

Which model of Seven? Have you got a single indicator lamp in the dash not in an instrument? That type uses a funny circuit that won't work if you replace the incandescant lamp with a diode, exactly as you've found. But there's a simple way of using an LED which only needs a bit more wiring and a couple of diodes and a new earth. It's described here but IIRC there's something more recent with more detail... 2018, with an explanatory circuit diagram linked from post #9. Jonathan

I presume the bottom alternator bolt is in and tight (it`s out of sight below) Good point. I'd included that in "bracket" but did you, Nigel? Jonathan

Time to buy a new battery? It wouldn't quite be for me. But you've now got nearly all of the information and tools needed. It starts fine when jumped but not on its own battery. The voltage drop on cranking is very high. But you don't know if the problem with the current battery is: It's terminal.It isn't topped up. Edited: Crossed with Ian's.It isn't charged adequately by the CTEK charger.2 is easy. 3 can be tested by using another charger. And you have one: your alternator is giving 13.8 V. So I'd charge the battery from that (or another charger). Then see if the voltage drop on cranking is better. Jonathan

I was very happy with the Pipercross Air Filter Cleaning Kit, and oiled. Enough for two goes on my not very dirty filter. I'd probably look for a non-aerosol version now. Previous discussions. Jonathan PS: The Original Poster can edit the Subject text. :-)

A lot. Shouldn't go below 10.5 V. The battery is probably shot. Have you had a chance to check the fluid levels? When the voltage gets that low as well as poor cranking electronic components can drop out. ... But I had a long-running problem which I thought was a duff battery... but turned out to be the CTEK charger. Despite it lighting up its lights as normal! So recheck that cranking voltage after a long run or using a different charger. And I'd still record the voltage at 3,000 rpm. And go over all of the relevant connections. Jonathan PS: A little light reading on current battery options.

Try localising the sound with a stethoscope, either commercial or DIY? Usual precautions. Jonathan

Alternator bracket OK? Jonathan

There are good reports of both Samco and SFS Performance (Club discount). Jonathan

From memory, there are exploded diagrams of two variants of drum layout in Tony Weale's book... Yes, two for the Ford and one for the Standard/ Ital. Jonathan

Thanks. You could try citrate on those... Jonathan

Did the paraffin bath clear the passages as well as cleaning the outside? Jonathan

Ford service sheets. If you'd like the appropriate factory Assembly Guide please send me a Private Message with your email address. Jonathan

Can you clarify what you mean by cranking? I assume you mean the time period when the battery is trying to start engine, but before it "catches"? Yes. The lowest voltage you see whether it fires or not. Without garage test gear this is the best way of seeing what the battery can do when it's loaded. Jonathan

I don't have enough arms or legs to get the revs up and also take the reading :-) You need to choose between an additional carbon-based life-form and a set of multimeter leads with croc clips on the end. There's nothing pointing strongly at the charging side from the story or the voltage reading. But do measure that at 3,000 rpm when it's convenient. But we don't know why it isn't starting as it should. As above: Have you checked the fluid levels in the battery? Edited: Crossed with Ian's.We need that minimum voltage during cranking. It carries information about the state of the battery and if it's low the electronics might misbehave.Start checking every relevant wire and connection including the earths: inspect, wiggle, disconnect, clean, reconnect.Jonathan

Did you get the minimum voltage as it cranked? And is that 13.7 V at idle? Could you add what you see at 3,000 rpm? Jonathan

Jonathan PS: They're going to need a lot of pressure on that gun to inject silicon!

Thanks. PDF isn't paginated correctly! This picture? Jonathan

Page 115 of the current Assembly Guide Edition 1.2 refers Is that a traditional text-heavy version or the new pictorial style? My 1.2 pictorial only goes up to 100... Thanks Jonathan

Thanks. The note I posted in #2 above was from "Version 02.2015c". Have you got something more recent, please? Jonathan

Sorry. How about this one? Jonathan PS: Why don't vendors link directly to safety data sheets?

I am sure it will make sense when I open the pedal box. :-) If you have a clutch cable check the angle of entry. And the actuation and condition of the brake light switch while you're in there. Jonathan

Water soluble, I'm guessing the action is that of a detergent, it's certainly not a concentrated organic solvent. A pink water based fluid that looks remarkably like coolant with a very mild clean smell. Yes. Granville Gunk Ultra Engine Degreasant contains an anionic detergent in "kerosine". Seen some good results from a friend doing a ground up rebuild of a Mustang using Citric acid, bought in powder form and mixed with water in a 40 ltr plastic tub. I still don't understand citrus-based cleaners as degreasants. They're (once again) widely used to remove lime scale etc, and have that effect by forming soluble compounds with insoluble inorganic crud. I use them on the bikes. Citric acid is pretty safe, has a nice smell (I'm told) and feels more environmentally friendly. But I suspect that any degreasing property is due to detergents or solvents in the formulation rather than the citric acid. If anyone feels like naming a particular commercial product I'll try and find out what's in it. And I'd be even more interested in a controlled test of the degreasing ability of citric acid on its own. Jonathan

Thick layers of a congealed hardened tarry grime that take ages to penetrate with degreasers. That's with a solvent, not a detergent? Does heat make a big difference? ... You didn't mention a domestic pressure washer or a rented steam washer... Jonathan

Have you found the factory notes and BlatChat hints for adjusting the pedals and cables? Jonathan