Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

Jonathan Kay

Member
  • Posts

    40,925
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    16

Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. ... and the temps flew up to 93/96 within a minute of no air flow. Is this normal? And the fan cut in and then the temperature stayed there? Happy Christmas Jonathan
  2. The rubber originals on my 1998 K wore out in less than 3y. The rubber replacements have lasted longer than 17. Jonathan PS: Also used on the Windcheetah in my profile photo...
  3. I then have an RPM factor, options are *2 /1 /2 /3 /4 /5 & /6 guess this is depends on the signal from the coil ? Yes, which ECU and coil set-up do you have? Jonathan
  4. And on to the oil pressure sender... ... the Caterham part 71216 appears to be Smith's PTR1005-M12-10. Jonathan
  5. I did measure the resistance of the standard Caterham sender across a range of temperatures. https://www.lotus7.club/comment/2130575#comment-2130575 Jonathan
  6. Hmmm... hoped that someone would give a definitive answer... here's a brain dump: Have you got a wiring diagram that matches your Seven? Let me know if not.We need the real part numbers, not just those that Caterham use.TTBOMK all the factory K gauges are simple resistance devices.There aren't many ranges of analogue senders and gauges around. Some oil pressure senders go the opposite way. See for example the VDO catalogue.You can test a temperature gauge with pans of hot and cold water and a thermometer and a multimeter. (And a pressure gauge similarly but most of us wouldn't have the kit.)Does the Aim MXS manual say that it has distinct preset ranges (see 4) or is everything variable? Have you got a link to it?You can probably leave the old instrument connected and match the old and new readings under controlled conditions: cold and then hot for temperature, engine off and then at, say, 4,000 rpm for pressure.Jonathan
  7. I presume it's the purple and black wire on the wiring loom and the other wire goes to earth. Probably. I'd test it like that before any definitive wiring. Locate the fuse first, and I don't think that any Sigmas had horn relays from the factory... I think that you've already got a wiring diagram... ... I have the push button and 5 or 6 terminals . Could you add a photo of that? Do you know if it had controls or displays on the wheel for racing? Jonathan
  8. Did you wire the turn indicators as well as the brake circuit? Jonathan
  9. Have you got the part numbers yet? IIRC they're in the archives. Jonathan
  10. How much power? What are your thoughts on type of tyre and width? "According to the 1997 build manual, offsets for all standard Caterham wheels (5.5x13, 6x13, 6x14, 6.5x15 & 6x16) are 19mm negative offset with the exception of 6.5x15 which are 13mm negative offset. No difference in offsets between live axle & De Dion." Happy Christmas Jonathan
  11. Previous discussions with experiences and precautions. Happy Christmas Jonathan
  12. As above: what have you got?If you'd like an Assembly Guide please send me a Private Message with your email address and details of the Seven.Very recent discussion of a change to the fittings, with pictures.Full search of the archives.Happy Christmas Jonathan
  13. What device, OS and browser would you like to use?Have a quick read through the Forum User Guide.Choose the method you prefer from: linking to images on another server, uploading with control of size ( ), and the (newish) simple uploading ( ). I suggest the last. Have a go with the method you choose and let us know where you get stuck.Jonathan
  14. TTBOMK every manufacturer will put the buckle on the L or R and the adjusters to pull up or down according to preference. Recent discussion. Jonathan
  15. ... as I seem incapable of posting photos on here :-) Can I help? Happy Christmas Jonathan
  16. Please can I have a copy for the library. Private Message sent. Jonathan
  17. From an Assembly Guide: Jonathan
  18. Well done. Brake and throttle OK? Jonathan
  19. Protective film, from the archives. Jonathan
  20. ... and I finish by wiping with a soapy microfibre cloth to remove chemical residue. Having some surfactant in the remover will help at that stage. I do find that automotive sticky trim tapes respond differently when being removed depending on chemical. I work through most of the suggestions above till I find one that works. Also seems easier in the warmer seasons! The effect of heat is very interesting. A surprising number of sticky things will come off with that alone. The solvent action should be greater with increasing temperature. But that effect where little balls of goo lift off the next bit of goo might also be enhanced. (Does it have a name?) Jonathan
  21. I'd expect white sprit to be a better solvent for the adhesive goo. I'd also expect it to carry a greater risk of damaging paint. Obviously that doesn't happen all the time, or even commonly, but I don't want to be the exception. So I'd start with something else. Jonathan
  22. Assuming that Andrew's "paraffin" is the stuff used as heater fuel in the UK rather than anything else that goes by the same name... I'd expect that WD-40, paraffin and petrol would have similar effectiveness as solvents for this purpose. But the need here is to remove the residue without damaging the paint. Autoglym Intensive Tar Remover differs in at least two ways: it contains xylene and a surfactant. The latter is probably irrelevant here as there isn't a water phase, it could make a big difference with cleaning clothes, etc. Xylene is a more powerful solvent and carries a greater risk of damaging paint. But the manufacturers say it's suitable and Ian has recommended it so the risk is probably low. ... so I'll try them both. It would be great hear how they work back to back. And isopropyl alcohol if possible. NB For all of them wash off asap. Jonathan
  23. Thanks for the update. Good to know about that service from Emerald. Have fun. Jonathan
  24. Previous discussion. There are comments in there on suitable solvents for the residue. I wouldn't use anything more aggressive than isopropyl alcohol or WD-40. Jonathan
  25. Looks like a reply to a specific post doesn't quote the post I'm replying to. Some Members use the quotation marks tool but IIUC that's what results in large quoted text which I consider ugly. I prefer to put the quoted text in italics, as above. You can then manually prefix that with the username, with or without an @. It would be nice to have an easy facility for both attributed and unattributed quotes. Still figuring out how to work this forum. There's a very helpful Forum User Guide, but please just ask. Jonathan
×
×
  • Create New...