Jonathan Kay

Even if you were happy with your old battery I'd encourage everyone to answer the Great Lithium Question for themselves. You can add lot of lightness, the £/kg ratio compares well with some other changes, and there's now a fair bit of experience out there. And please add your own to this thread: Li Ion Batteries, so that others can learn from it. Thanks Jonathan

Tim: if you'd like the later Assembly Guides and Handbooks please send me a Private Message with your email address. Jonathan

The current pictorial style Assembly Guide for the 310 has: Torque the wheel nuts to 65lbft (about 85Nm). And the 2016 text-heavy version has: Tighten wheel nuts to 74 Nm. Jonathan

I try to keep these threads up to date: Whats the best battery these days Li Ion batteries I suggest having a look at those, and then deciding whether you want to move to lithium or not. If not I'd replace that AGM as like for like as possible, details in the first thread, probably a PC680. Jonathan PS: You've got two other threads with the same Subject. You can't delete them but you can edit their Subject and add some body text so that all of the responses come to this thread,

Might it be repairable? If not DIY then by one of the specialists? "Speedometer and Instrument Repairs." Jonathan PS: Is it electronic? If so you're probably about to get advice to go mechanical...

I can do this with forum images, and I imagine it's the same. Was it taken with a 'phone... and can you take another avoiding the rotation once you know how? Or do we need to rotate that one? https://www.lotus7.club/comment/2323111#comment-2323111 Jonathan

Have you asked Merlin Motorsport? Jonathan

Very interesting. The Guide has sections on "Adjusting the Air Gap" and "Eliminating the Interference". Jonathan

Anything suitable here? Momo accessories Merlin Motorsport Quick Release Boss Kits & Spacers Jonathan

I'm not an expert on this, but while we're waiting... ... IIRC there have been reports of the light working when tested at rest but the speedometer becoming inaccurate at speed. So I'd set the gap as suggested. Has any work been done recently in that area or near the wiring? Jonathan

Thanks Jonathan

Thanks, Colin... was that a comment from the tester? If so I think it might be the first that I've heard since the regulations changed. Jonathan

Mike: Private Message sent. Jonathan

Which type is it... sender in the gearbox or sender on the rear axle? Guide: "Speedometers" Once we know which there's quite a lot of experience with what's likely to be the problem... Jonathan

Equipment for Loan Register Jonathan PS: I found it by using site-restricted search with an external search engine: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=site:lotus7.club+equipment+register

: - ) Jonathan

"Wiring: yellow/brown - pickup; brown -ve; brown/black +ve. 8 pulses per revolution." https://www.burtonpower.com/ford-electronic-speedo-sensor-revfss.html Jonathan

The problem with the image is probably the different behaviour of different browsers when PDFs are served on this site. Jonathan

"Re Guides, unfortunately CC did not agree to our uploading Workshop Notices onto the website. But JK, as putative Club Librarian, has copies of most (all?) of the ones in circulation." As always: if any Member needs any documentation please send me a Private Message with your email address. And if you've got anything that you think that another Member might need some day then ditto. Jonathan

Private Message sent.

There's a long thread triggered by the "lead-free restriction": https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/aero-filler-cap-and-bp-ultimate? And there's a lot elsewhere in the archives: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=site:lotus7.club+fuel+flap Jonathan

This is WN371. Let me know if it doesn't display properly. Jonathan WN371 - Fuel-tank-notice.pdf

Private Message sent.

Private Message sent.

"My recommendation is for everyone to get a cheap plug in the fag lighter voltmeter even if just to get a feel for what normal looks like." Electrical problems are clearly common on Sevens. I agree that it's smart to monitor a few simple things in the same way that we do for tyre pressure and level of coolant and engine oil... and battery acid where appropriate. I suggest that the basic set is the battery voltage at rest, minimum during cranking, and at 3,000 rpm. It's then a lot easier to spot deterioration by comparison with previous values. I'd recommend a multimeter because it will do other things, but you can measure those voltages with a small digital voltmeter as John says, and there are also some units that provide a cigar lighter socket, one or more USB charging sockets, and a similar voltmeter. I was concerned that those little voltmeters might be overdamped and that they couldn't be used to show the transient minimum during cranking, but with a sample of 2 (!) that hasn't been the case. (This is a separate issue from the much shorter transient drop that Andrew Revill identified as the problem with a certain type of starter. That required an oscilloscope.) Jonathan PS: As always I'm happy to supply wiring diagrams for Sevens and to recommend a multimeter.