Jonathan Kay

This is a quick DIY method for testing how the battery behaves under load and whether the car's charging system is working. The minimum voltage while cranking (the convenient DIY load) should be greater than 10.5 V. As well as measuring the condition of the battery this may help to explain what's wrong with the car as electronic components, including the ECU, can drop out below this. (The surprising thing is that this can happen although the cranking speed seems fine.) The voltage at 3,000 rpm is a test of the car's charging system, and should be greater than 14 V. Jonathan

1 Check the fluid levels and top-up if needed. 2 Disconnect everything from the battery and stick it on the charger. 3 When the multimeter arrives measure the battery voltage: • With nothing connected • Connected to the car but nothing explicitly turned on • Minimum during cranking • At 3,000 rpm. Jonathan

And I once had a CTEK smart conditioning charger that appeared to complete its cycle but wasn't charging the battery at all. That took me months to diagnose and left me even more cautious than before. Jonathan

Have you already asked Redline? Jonathan

What model is the new battery? You need to test it under load. I strongly recommend getting a multimeter and we can help you with getting to know it. The most recent little one that I bought was a Draper DMM201 and that should be fine for your needs. (You're welcome to borrow it from Garsington, but at £23 that doesn't make much sense.) Do you have the appropriate wiring diagrams? If not please send me a Private Message with your email address. Which engine and ECU do you have? Was the master switch set to isolate the battery? And did you set the immobiliser? Jonathan

If you're 3D printing is there a need for two brackets that then have to be joined? Jonathan

Ah... I think that the photos of where people fitted tool tubes might not have survived the transition to the new website as they were in a Bulk Buy thread. I'll see what I can find. I'll post a photo of my jack in front of the heater on a K Series. Please can you add some photos of your heater and battery so that we can look for possibilities. Jonathan

I'd test the battery before doing anything else. That's both to see if that's the cause and because you'll be relying on it in diagnosing other faults. 1 If it's the type that you can top-up then check the fluid levels and top-up if necessary. 2 Measure the battery voltage: • At rest • Minimum during cranking • At 3,000 rpm. Jonathan

Please could you add some photos of it held in position. Jonathan

Thanks for the pictures. I don't understand how they'll attach to the bonnet. Please could you add some more of all of the bits held close together. Jonathan

Thanks for adding the outcome. Jonathan

Please could you add a photo. Jonathan PS: I'd rather have a shield that's spaced off the starter.

Are these bolts or studs and nuts? NB the factory setting changed recently: Jonathan

And that's when it's hot and revved? As well as the possible sources suggested upthread I'd check the engine and gearbox mounts. Jonathan

I don't know how many builders do and how many don't. IIRC most who have told us have arranged with the insurer who will be providing cover when it's on the road. If I were building again I would. Jonathan

And the usual general reminder: tools and fluids can be carried in tool canisters, and those can be fitted in the engine bay. Lots of photos in the archives following the Bulk Buy. And cables can be tied to chassis members. Jonathan

We did once identify a suitable lightweight alloy jack. Jonathan PS: And usual reminder: the jack and handle can be bolted into the engine bay, mine are in front of the heater.

In addition to suggestions upthread: • Check all relevant connections, feed and earth to the battery, ECU, and engine earths. Inspect, wiggle, disconnect, clean, reconnect. • Check battery voltage at rest, minimum during starting, and at 4,000 rpm. • Check ECU fuse contact and connections. (And what's the fuse rating?) • Check spark plug wells for water and spark plug leads for positive engagement. (But sounds like all cylinders losing power, not one.) Jonathan

Hmmm... Lots of possibilities, and it's intermittent, and there's been recent work on it... Do you have the appropriate wiring diagrams and a multimeter? Has it been drowned recently? When it happens does the ignition warning light come on, and do the electrical instruments change what they're showing? When it happens and you restart does it immediately run well, without coughing or similar? Jonathan

I have an amateur interest. What are the surfaces? How good is the fit? And will the assembled bits be subject to any unusual conditions? Jonathan

You can do that and it will nicely quote either the whole of the post of interest or a selected part (and trimming is an excellent habit). It's one of the big improvements of the new site. But BigCol is asking how you do the second! There are two tricks.: 1 To quote a post go to the post and use the ... Share action. This will give you the URL. Then go back to where you were and insert that URL. 2 To quote a thread get the URL from the menu bar and insert that. You can do this from multiple sources into the same new post. And when you do any of these the items inserted into the new post shows not the URL but a clipping of the source which includes a live hyperlink. Jonathan PS: On the old site it was possible to do something similar with a screenshot and a hyperlink. But the new functionality is much better.

Please let us know if you’d like some help? Uploading or linking? Jonathan

BTTT because of recent question about properties of fuel. Jonathan

Thanks Jonathan