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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. This is from 2017, and might be the best single thread for the current (!) style: Dash Illumination too bright How about asking Caerbont? Jonathan
  2. You're not alone. There's a fair bit of previous discussion, but I can't remember a brilliant (!) solution. We may have found a lower power LED for the lamp on earlier Sevens, but on yours you might have to get inside the instrument... I'll have a look, but that tape sounds pragmatic. Jonathan PS: The Stiletto, and presumably other Imps, had eyelids on the dash lamps.
  3. The thread linked from #14 above has details of the 41mm and 42mm nuts. Jonathan
  4. Discussion of oscilloscopes from 2019, with recommendations. Jonathan
  5. Thanks for the update. Well done. And I'd guess that this discussion will help someone else sometime. Jonathan
  6. It’s a resistor. And they get hot in normal operation. Jonathan
  7. If you’d like a copy of the Assembly Guide please send me a Private Message with your email address. Jonathan
  8. "Yes so you put the angle iron on the same side as the bar so the force is down not up" Hard to describe, but easy when you've got it in front of you! :-) Jonathan
  9. "... what year the change to sealed for life bearings took place?" 2016 suggested here: https://www.lotus7.club/comment/2353316#comment-2353316 That thread also includes details of the hub nuts and bearings. Jonathan
  10. Sorry: diagrams sent. 1 There are at least 3 different layouts of fuses and relays on Sigmas. I’d check carefully what you’ve got. 2 Working hazard lights with failed indicators means that you should check the flasher unit/ “relay”. It also sometimes happens with a common fault in the hazard warning light switch: cycle that a few times and see if it makes any distance. Jonathan
  11. 1 Is this a dash with separate gauges rather than eg a Stack? 2 Which indicator warning system... one or two lights, and where are they? 3 Any recent work on the car? 4 Have you found and checked the instrument earth point? 5 Do you have a multimeter? Jonathan
  12. Please send me a Private Message with your email address and I'll send the wiring diagrams. Jonathan
  13. i have diagrams of S2 (not self-adjusting) and S3/S4 (self-adjusting). Please send me a Private Message with your email address. Jonathan
  14. I borrowed a suitable torque wrench. There are several in the Equipment Register, along with sockets.. Some tighten them blind and gingerly drive to where there's an available wrench. And some do force x distance with a rigid lever. Jonathan PS: I used a piece of angle iron with holes drilled for two wheel studs to deliver the counterforce from the floor. PPS: Do check that you have the correctly handed nut, and start by hand...
  15. The Assembly Guide has: but in the absence of a test device the best advice that I know is bjw's: https://www.lotus7.club/comment/2300922#comment-2300922 Jonathan
  16. With that solution you need a new live feed to the new gearbox switch, as you've shown. But I'd use the existing Green/Brown wire from the gearbox switch to the new lamp unit. It will then be a switched live to the lamp unit. Jonathan
  17. QuickJack lift Sorry for the misunderstanding. Jonathan
  18. Do you want to be able to get it onto stands... there might not be enough lift. Jonathan (Click for the whole Low Flying article.)
  19. Ralph, in case this isn't clear: There are now three solutions being discussed in this thread. In no particular order, and as briefly as possible: 1 Change the gearbox switch to a two terminal live switched system. Buy and fit a new switch. Run a new live feed to it. Fit the new lights without modification. 2 Add a relay. Buy and fit a relay. No changes to gearbox switch and wiring. Fit the new lights without modification. 3 Modify the earth wiring in the new lamp unit. Identify and separate the earths in the new lamp unit and add a new wire for the reversing lamp earth. No changes to gearbox switch and wiring. Fit the new lights and wiring with that modification. Jonathan
  20. "Is the other end of that cable in the reversing light/ numberplate unit? And is there an adaptor subloom that connects that connector to the original chassis loom?" ... "Yes the end is connected directly to the new unit No this connects directly with the new loom connector no other connections and all the wires from original loom to the number plate light are redundant, According tp Caterham video this is for all models " ... Thanks. But that second one sounds like a Yes. Please can you add a photo of "the new loom connector". Jonathan PS: Thanks, ScottR400D.
  21. "I have attached picture of the unit with connection. I think the 3 wires a two live one for the reversing light and one for the numberplate light and the 3rd would be earth." Thanks. It's the first time I've seen what this is like. Is the other end of that cable in the reversing light/ numberplate unit? And is there an adaptor subloom that connects that connector to the original chassis loom? Jonathan
  22. "Relay sounds possible does anybody know where the feed from ignition is connected to the Green/Brown wire." With your current wiring the Green/ Brown from the gearbox switch isn't a "feed from ignition". It's a switched earth. Jonathan
  23. From #18 above: "First disconnect the lamp unit and check whether the Green/ Brown wire from the chassis loom is connected to earth all of the time rather than only when the switch is closed." I suggest that you check this to make sure that the switch and wiring are working correctly. Jonathan
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