Jonathan Kay

What engine and how old is the Seven, please? Jonathan

The main beam/ dipped beam switch clicks into either position. The headlamp flash switch is spring-loaded to one position. But if you can't work out which it is from that and playing with them then please tell us the wire colours. That link is to a switch with a white metal round-ended switch lever. My S3 has black plastic flattened levers. Which would you like? Jonathan

Neat. Thanks Jonathan

I've had a good look through the archives... comments on S3s and SVs being different, observations that they're Land Rover parts and the part numbers, and various descriptions of cutting to length. But I can't identify why yours look like that... any progress, please? Thanks Jonathan

"here's mine at the moment before i mod them ,does it look normal?" That looks typical as a starting position. Have you got the Assembly Guide section on adjustment? Let me know if you need a copy. And beyond that as Tim says you can make big changes by altering the pedal surfaces... one of mine currently has a section of mahogany handrail. And there's a lot on this in the archives. Jonathan PS: What size shoes, and have you tried specialist driving/ karting/ boxing footwear?

What would you like to improve... more space between the clutch and brake pedals? Better position of the brake pedal for heel and toeing? (Doesn't sound like space down the L for your left foot past the clutch pedal.) Thanks Jonathan

Guide: "How to pre-load the clutch release bearing (crb) -- for cars with cable clutches". Jonathan

Cable or hydraulic operation? Thanks Jonathan

Have you got John's amended drawing with the correct position of the Schnorr washers? Jonathan

Well done. I have some brief instructions for this type of immobiliser: let me know if you'd like a copy. Jonathan

"I work on the ratio of 1 in 10 of my ideas / suggestions being any good" ... "You vastly under-estimate your skills, Ian!" ... SNAP! Please keep them coming. Jonathan

"Sikaflex sounds the way to go..... Can you remove it if needed to?" NB there are lots of products labelled Sikaflex! I don't know of any chemicals that help much. If you're lucky you can peel from an edge. And if you aren't you can abrade or scrape. Which brings me to the question: What's the best way to prepare the two surfaces before sticking them together? Thanks Jonathan

Just to save John Vine some time... Julian now has the Workshop Notices and a link to the brilliant Speedometers Guide. : - ) Jonathan

Email sent. Jonathan

I think that the first part of that is today's update? There is a previous record of a fault in the speedometer circuit taking down other functions. But IIRC it was in the wiring rather than the sensor. Did I include the Workshop Notices on the speedometer circuit wiring with the other diagrams? Please let me know if you need a copy. Jonathan

What colour are the wires? And can you add a photo, please? Thanks Jonathan

Hi, Tim Seems to be speedometer season. Please could you post details of the new set-up with part numbers when it's all working? Thanks Jonathan

You often have to cut off the upper end of the blade so that it doesn't abrade the screen surround. (Guess how I know!) But yours look as if that would leave the lower end short... Jonathan

"I did put LED lights in search but it didnt come up with anything." I used: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=site:lotus7.club+caterham+led+rear Jonathan

Long thread over here. Jonathan

Most recent discussion, with links to more, and some suggested remedies. Jonathan

Thankyou very much. "I've often wondered why this issue of the LED indicator leading to a failure to excite the alternator seems to be something of a recent phenomenon - I can't find many references to anything similar from the time when these cars would have been newer. On my car, the LED only feeds about 4mA into the excitation wire, but it seems to get away with it. I've only really had a chance to look at this on my own car and others which have been experiencing the problem, but I did wonder if on the K-Series era cars there may have been a resistor like this built into the tacho where it cannot be seen; and as they do run hot, I wondered if they were actually burning out eventually, leaving just the LED current and marginal startup performance." Isn't it interesting? Even if we narrow down the Sevens at risk to those with LED warning lights AND combined circuits for the warning light and excitation there might be something else, but I suspect that it's variation between alternators. These observations are going to make it much quicker to pinpoint problems. Jonathan

See also: https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/2005-k-series-alternator#comment-2373318 https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/wosp-alternator-fitting But is this only a problem when the same circuit is used for energising the alternator and for the warning lamp? And is: "The resistor in the picture is to prevent the alternator light on the tacho from coming on and yes it will get hot." different from it being there to allow enough current in the energising circuit? Thanks Jonathan

They're in the thread linked from #14. Jonathan

If the 21's warning light unit was similar to that on my 1998 S3 the options would include a dimming widget, a lower powered incandescant lamp, a replacement LED, or putting a filter inside the unit. Jonathan