JP

I also understand that Esso 99 tends to be E0 (zero) at most fuel stations in UK. They had something about this on their website although I can't find it now...

Hopefully your hose is not like mine was when I rebuilt... 20220319_164450.mp4

Out of interest, why is the camber and castor different from left to right?

Thank you. I'll do a search...

Thank you. That's what I read too, which I why I switched to non-resistive (I'm EU2 with dizzy). Having said that, I had never had trouble with the "R" s before...

Experienced something today that I do not recall having seen before, although it has been many years since I last changed the plugs as the car has been off the road for 15 years. After a change of plugs, the car would turn over, catch but then die immediately. Inertia checked and OK. IACV valve is new and "reset" done. Fuel pump whirring heard on turning key. Engine would keep running with throttle opened, but a little rough and with a strong fuel smell. HT leads recently new and checked for resistance anyway and seem fine. So I put the old plugs back in but it still would not start properly. Then I messed with the Rover immobiliser, pressing unlock several times when after a few presses I heard a click. Then it sparked into life and idled normally. So, I put the new plugs back in and had the same non-starting issue until I pressed the immobiliser unlock a few times. Now seems fine. I don't recall having this happen before - is this normal or is there something else I should look at ? (BTW, in the plugs change I went from BCPR7ES to BCP7ES.)

I can't comment on Quantum etc, but I fitted new Protechs all round when I did my rebuild. They seem good so far, but I haven't driven it enough yet to see the effect of adjusting the damping etc. What I would say though is that the chaps at Protech have been excellent. I have had a couple of queries post-sale and they have been really helpful. They also made me some new spacers FoC for my rears to adjust the mounting position. So far, I'm very happy.

@SM25T Thank you for posting the photos.

Could you post a pic of your pipe routing please? I also don't like the idea of pipes through the belt and might change that over winter. Did you need to buy longer hoses?

I like the look of the ERA Mini...

I looked at lots of options to avoid drilling my rear panel and refitting the Land Rover lights during my rebuild. In the end I went for the Caterham LEDs. When I first saw them I thought they looked too modern, but they are growing on me and I'm pleased with the purchase, despite the outrageous cost... VideoPro_20230819_185854.mp4

They re-made spacers of differing thickness for me, but if you've opted for bushes rather than rose joints, you may not have that option. You may end up with fewer engaged threads on the mounting bolt.

If you have a DD tube with a through the tube optional mount, the mounting boss sits proud and comes very close to the shoulder of the shock. Pics below. Protech sent me new spacers to move the shock away from the tube, but if I was ordering again, I would ask for the longest bottom eye option that they have (have a look at the custom shock order form on their website to see the options for this component). The top eyes you can change easily, the bottom eyes with the adjuster not unfortunately. I've been running with tape over the tube to pick up any witness marks - there are none and so I'll leave mine as is, but I'll order longer ones when I need to replace...

JV - that's the same as my Manual.

It's inside the front cover of the ring binder A5 sized Owners Manual from the late 90s. I'll post a pic later this evening...