Swiss_Tony
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Everything posted by Swiss_Tony
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Mine were off the rear. The fronts and rears are the same! James
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I have got a couple of discs. They are not badly worn or warped etc James
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I have heard of the oilways in the head getting blocked or partially blocked with swarf etc. Possibly the foam insert in the sump could do this as well. Just a thought James
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Ouch! Looks horrible. I hope nobody was hurt. What would you call reasonable? Where are you/the car? James
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It sounds like a dodgy cut off switch. If you try a bit of WD40 or similar in the cut out switch and see if that helps. It may need the inner part of the switch pushing in a bit more to make a decent contact. James
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Just a thought Are you sure it is the tappets? The pistons can cause a similar noise from cold but not when hot. James Edited by - james on 9 Jun 2002 08:16:36
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Its easy to check. Are you about at the weekend? If so I can pop round. James
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Thanks for the replies. Is the Mintex 1155 the standard one or is that 1144? Does anyone happen to know the part numbers for the front or rear pads? James Edited by - james on 5 Jun 2002 22:54:42
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I am having the same problem with the green pads. I was hoping to get away with the standard brakes for a bit longer. How about the rears? Is there an equivalent Mintex compound? James
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Does anyone have any suggestions to improve the standard brake set-up? Which pads are suitable for road and trackdays or sprints? Thanks in advance James
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That was the part which came loose on mine. It seems to hold the column from turning a small amount as well. I tried moving this part by hand and it did feel solid. James james.seven@virgin.net
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Come on Arnie! I thought you would know that the headbolts are meant to be changed each time! They are stretch bolts! If you would like some old head bolts I have lots of them James
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It may be worth checking..... I had a similar problem on the way to Stoneleigh this year and thought at first it was the rack. It turned out to be the section of steering column under the bonnet by the bulkhead.The grub screw had come loose. A 2 minute fix and its been fine since! James
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I carry a dry sump belt,clutch cable,exhaust rubber mount and a tin of tyre weld (no spare) along with a few tools and some cable ties. I have not needed a thing yet except a welder would have been handy when my exhaust broke at a sprint! James
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Steve I would like to fit a similar thing to my vx. Do you have any more details? James
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I am not sure I got it ages ago from a clutch place. I seem to think it is for a mk1 Transit! If you get a standard bearing you can carefully remove the bearing leaving the plastic sleeve. Quarter Master sell the round nose bearings in a few different sizes. Let me know if you cannot sort anything. James
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Urgently reqed - 7/21/13 good cond circuit slicks
Swiss_Tony replied to edmandsd's topic in For Sale
Mail me for details if you still need some. James -
I use a Quarter Master twin plate with a cable operated mechanism. Not had a problem as yet probably done 1000 or so miles and 1 track day. It took a while to get the pedal/cable ratio right but it works a treat now James
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My vx does this a lot! I normally have quite a few streaks down the side of the car after a blast. If you have a bit of a silly cam it will be a lot worse. The first time I saw it happen on the dyno I was amazed. James
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I assume your car has the mems ecu (Standard Rover) The idle etc can be reset by pumping the throttle a few times (I forget how many but 7 or 8 rings a bell) with the ignition on and engine off. Someone will be along to confirm this soon no doubt! This probably wont affect the emissions at a fast idle. Has the cat been removed? If so it wont pass a cat test! A temp sensor or lambda sensor can cause this amongst other things. It might be worth finding a local garage with the necessary gear to do a few checks. It should be the same as most Rovers to diagnose. James
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The most common carbs are the weber 45s. Dellorto 45s are often used but are a bit hard to get hold of.Spares are a bit of a problem as well. SBD and QED amongst others sell the manifolds etc (for the astra) If you are getting new carbs weber do 45s with a few mods specifically for the vx engine.Better low down throttle response. As for ignition SBD and QED do all the bits you need. After this your wallet decides the limit! James
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Why would you want one of these? They are not that quick in a straight line! My trusty vx can catch them on the straights! James
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I got mine for free from Caterham! I use the FIA roll bar headrest bracket. It works at speeds of up to 135mph! (at Brands yesterday) The only bad vibrations were when the car was idling. James
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A switch on the dash is not an MOT failure! How can it be? It will do the same job as the key switch other than the steering lock. It may well fail the sva test though. Dont believe the old story of the brake hoses. How can they fail the hoses if they are not able to see them? It is the same as a car with wheel trims on. They cant fail it because they cannot see if the wheel nuts are there or not. And they are not allowed to dismantle anything. If you get stuck let me know I have a copy of the MOT testers manual here. James
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I use NGK plugs (I dislike Champion) BCR8ES for sprints and track work BCPR7ES for road use. Yhe 8's seem to foul if the engine is idling for long in traffic etc. The engine starts on the button with either plugs fitted. James