Shortshift

Maybe beating it with some sticks, as per Basil Fawlty?? More seriously, get some serious heat on to it (hot air gun on max or even a gas torch) and use whatever leverage you can to multiply your one man-power's worth of grunt. Have you any scaffolding bars, or long, tubular jack handles? It'll suddenly 'pop' and you'll wonder what all the fuss was about. Good luck! James

Well done! James

Just peel it back in that particular corner. Likely that the adhesive will have dried out anyway. James

The below is from the CSR Supplementary Build Instructions which may also help. Highlighting has nothing to do with me! James

Could be wrong but, from memory, I thought it was a simple job to remove the spring/damper assy? Just top and (infamous) bottom fixings, no? James

If leverage is an issue, it may be easiest (and fastest) to drop the damper/spring assy from the car and attack it on the bench. James

I think the figures in that column refer to measurements taken from a particular car, and show measured values (presumably after set up) against specified values. The car has very slight left-to-right differences in geo. James

Here are the official factory setting to work to (more or less identical between standard CSR and Superlight CSR). Note that the nominal rake is circa 18mm. James

No, not really. Context (and accuracy) is everything. I guess you're not the type to believe everything you read on the internet! James (Former GenSec at the time alluded to).

As above - I have a 'Soft Bits for Sevens' half hood complete with fabric roll/wrap (like a bag) that is the CSR or SV size. Thinking £125 including UK shipping. James

Please ignore - I'm forgetting that I already have a hood bag so don't need a second... James

Hi C-H-L! Yes, I'm interested in this please and would like to take it. Just seen that you're in Scotand. Would you be prepared to ship it at my cost, please? I just need the weight and approx size (from memory, it packs into a single bag, I think?) James

Looks to me as though you've plenty of room to move the clamp rearwards, towards the driver, to achieve clearance. It seems to be positioned currently in the most forward position. Loosening and repositioning just the clamp without moving either the column upper or lower pieces will not affect your current steering wheel position. James

I'm not sure, Neil - I haven't got any curves and I can't remember. What I do know, though, is that the driveability was transformed by Steve's mapping session. It's well known that, ex-factory, R500s had appalling torque curves with huge dips and holes around the 5000 and 6000rpm regions, leading to dreadful driveability whether on road or track. Now, my car just pulls and pulls and is a pleasure to drive. It also has a rock-steady idle too (well, it does now - again - since Stu Cresswell diagnosed and fixed no fewer than four dreaded failed valve springs, back in autumn last year when his wonderful Premier power was still a thing). James

261 @ 8400rpm, using gloopy 10W-60 oil, so probably hitting 263 on the head with Caterham Cars' recommended (thinner) oil. Standard R500 spec and build, but mapped by the brilliant Steve Greenald. If you're limiting to 8200rpm, James, that will be a relevant factor too. James