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Iain McCallum

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Posts posted by Iain McCallum

  1. I will go for the 'standard' ones also. I currently only have the normal Caterham side screen mirrors but will look to upgrade those as well, so any decent suggestions will be welcome!

    Iain

     

  2. I will concur with the box spanner as my oil pressure gauge started to play up and i suspected the sender but it wasn't at fault. I traced the wire back from the sender and found that a connector was attached to the chassis and it just needed connecting properly and latching. Somehow it had worked its way loose.

    Probably not your issue as you have checked the gauge - but you never know!

    Also it appears to get some sort of feed through the rev counter so might be worth a check of that wiring too.

    Cheers

    Iain

  3. Need to be careful with this one, but you can put the rear up on stands with the wheels off and then watch the sensor light as the speed rises, or as you press the clutch!

    This worked for diagnosing my issue. Caterham had put the cable tie too close to the sensor after they changed the diff cage, so i undid all the ties and it burst back into life!

  4. Thanks Jonathan. I had seen that post but the only number that appears in the CBS list is the 7.5mm-8.4mm, so is that the diameter or the length?.

    The post you pointed to talks about a length of about 21mm but that is not mentioned as part of the description so I am still none the wiser as to which to get!

    Maybe a phone call to CBS in needed!

  5. Hi guys,

    I am looking to replace the standard Dzus fastners underneath the nose cone with ones that have a wing nut attached.

    However there seems to be a variety of sizes available on the CBS site:

    2.5mm-3.37mm, 4mm, 3.8mm-4.6mm, 4.4mm-5.25.., 5mm-5.87mm

    6.3mm-7.1mm, 6.9mm-7.7mm, 7.5mm-8.4mm, 9mm 

    What is the size of the standard ones supplied with the car (SV Sigma 2011) as I can't figure out how these measurements are arrived at?

    I don't particularly want to take off the old ones until I have the new ones available

    Thanks Iain

  6. I have the DRE shift lights installed for about 4 years on my Sigma 150 in exactly the same way with the feed from the tacho and have never had any problems, so I agree that the ECU issue is probably a red herring.

    Iain

  7. An excellent insight. thanks.

    The full scale was probably due to the pin disconnection as you suggested, because it only happened once. The other times I disconnected, it went straight to the 2 bar position.

    The slightly confusing thing, still, is that there is variance in the gauge when it is disconnected from the sender. To me it was like the gauge was sensing a temperature reading, because it did rise up dramatically as the engine got really hot.

    However, I am now happy that i didn't have to replace the sender to get it fixed!

  8. Jonathan

    Just got the engine up to operating temperature on idle and the oil pressure read about 2 bar and increased to approx 4 bar with throttle.

    While it was idling I disconnected the lead from the sender and the gauge initially went full scale and then dropped to about the 2 bar mark very quickly. I left it idling for about 10 mins and it still read 2 bar with no change on throttle application - as previously seen - so this led to my thinking that the sender was at fault.

    Connected up the sender lead again and everything is reporting correctly.

    Very strange!

    It is a standard Sigma 150 so the current wiring diagram will be valid but I am rubbish at reading them!

    Cheers

    Iain

  9. Oil pressure update time!

    I looked at replacing the actual unit but found that I didn't need to. It turns out that the other end of the existing cable connector came undone VERY easily from the pre-existing supplied wiring. I plugged it back in properly and placed it on top of the chassis bar it was tied to (previously underneath) and now I have proper oil pressure readings (fluctuating nicely with revs).

    I would have expected the gauge to not read anything at all in this disconnected situation i.e. 0 but it was still reading something. I know the gauge takes feed from the rev counter but where is it getting this feed from - an ECU output?

    Slightly baffling but not a problem anymore!

    Note to self - check ALL connections before shelling out for replacement parts! At least I now have a new spare sender unit!

    Many thanks for your help

    Iain

     

  10. Hi fellows,

    After eventually finding a tool that I can extract my sender without taking anything off the car (2011 Sigma 150bhp):

    MELTM22 TM Metric Double Ended Box Spanner - Size: 22mm x 23mm x 125mm from Tool guru (http://www.toolgurus.co.uk)

    I am struggling to find a seller for the Danfoss 1350 sender:

    large_IMG_0042_0.JPG.b331d1c40ddd8573247887f729244ba4.JPG

    large_IMG_0046.JPG.7c59167eb377d6b9fbca9c008087fde9.JPG

    I intend to try an electrical replacement before changing to a mechanical as this would be a much easier thing to fix (currently reads like oil temperature rather than oil pressure!)

    If anyone can help with a supplier it would be really appreciated.

    Thanks

    Iain

     

  11. Hi guys,

    My 2011 Sigma has just passed its MOT, but I mean JUST! The guy at Kwik Fit tested the lamda maximum value for Fast Idle at 1.027 whereas the maximum allowed is 1.030 (according to his machine!).

    The VOSA guide says the maximum should be 1.09 so in actual fact it is well under. Has anyone else had any issues with this variance in the maximum values?

    Many thanks

    Iain

    - See more at: http://www.lotus7.club/blogs/maximum-lambda-limits-150bhp-sigma#sthash.sMLNkhaj.dpuf

  12. Interestingly my 1.6 Sigma 150 just had its first MOT and the tester said it only just passed the emissions test. The first lambda figure was 1.530 and when he did it a second time it came down to 1.028 which was just under the limit of 1.030 according to him, but the VOSA guide (from above) for the 1.6 Sigma says the limit is 1.090.

     

    Does the decrease indicate the engine being hotter during the second test, and should I point out the difference in the documented numbers to the garage (Kwik Fit in this case)?

    Cheers Iain

  13. I recently changed to Titon from the Caterham 4 point due to the near impossible lap adjustment regime! I went for the lap adjustment pulling down from the centre and it proves to be a lot easier especially due to the large adjusters. Eventhough it is still best to adjust the lap belt before getting in the car (placing a mark on the strap helps!) the whole arrangement is better for a variety of length of drivers.

     

    Cheers Iain

  14. If you get a chance you should spend a fair bit of time getting to know what is in each box and checking it ties up with the build manual. I did this after I found (or didn't find!) that there were no steering rack brackets (no 2 in the build process I think!). Most disappointing!

    I did a full inventory check after that and got the missing bits (there will be some!) from Caterham in good time before you reach that point in the build.

    Great fun and I am envious!

    Happy building!

     

    Iain *wavey*

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