h_____

Another for schroth, again from porsches. For caterham speak to Jen Grace at http://www.msar-safety.com/ She races in Grads and has had belts specially made for caterhams. Also a great source of knowledge abuot what you can and cant do.

Mine was a gas (halon), my foot got a little wet too, assumably from condensation drips at the nozzle. No mess to clean up on the car, (although it wouldnt have been issue anyway.)

Ah! I got the impression it was a classic lotus 7. Then you are right! if its on a '94 chassis, put a duratec, zetec, etc thing in their. Sell the classy engine!

I did think about mentioning that, but thought Mark is right to a close approximation. There were a couple fords in the classics a couple of years ago, but lets say less than 10% of the field (ie. one or two).

assuming you arent running slicks, then agree with Mark!

McMM usually recommend 1177s front and 1144s rear (not 1155s) although they recommend different for academy tyres (CR322s still?). Certainly on 48s - the setup works perfectly. Remember you really want the fronts to lock first, albeit, just before the rears. Unless you are super quick, I'd be tempted to take the thing off. Plenty of race winnings cars without bias valves including in the wet. It may be that your pads are making it hard to get the best out the bias valve. what are you running?

Keep the car original, if its not what you want, then sell it and buy something that suits your needs. Dont start mucking around with it, as a classic with valueable spec, it will be much better to keep it as is. I'd fix it, and sell the car. You can buy something much more useable on the road them. Or if you are really attached to the car, keep it original and live with the compromises.

Plumbed in usually has 3 exits, fuel rail, drivers feet and over the fuel tank, by fuel filter in the back. If all linked up and pulled at correct point, can save the car. I crashed as Spa and the car caught fire, whether the FE put it out, or it was a simply a flash fire is paddock debate, but I didnt think twice about pulling it! Also, have FE in the garage, as I am likely to be around at the start of a fire (probably being the cause!! 😳 )

Worth checking the wiring on the LT circuit, I have seen situations where the little brown wire in the dist. has the shielding come away as the dist advances, but goes back again when you look for it. Could be something odd like that. Surely ballast resistor relates to the coil fitted? If you have a balasted coil without a ballast resistor, then it will simply overheat causing missfire, not related to RPM.

Not sure I'd be happy with secure as ever! it clearly was very secure before! 😳 You might want some braces!

Sounds like you now have a trackday set of tyres. :-) Now you just need a second set of wheels (200notes from For Sale) and some new boots and you are away! :-) 😬

A lot of wax before fitting, and a heat gun to help get them off. Agree once use only.

Finally got around to doing this. actually fitting is quite easy. The clips have little lugs on them, so you can put a pair of pliers on to the 2 lugs pulling them together, this enables you to then clip the hole over the catch. Tensioning, whilst there are 2 catches, you simply need the tighest one for our cars. Looks like the actual bar bit the CV joint, following the drop link getting disconnected. Need to go back to the little wire clips to keep the drop links on.

Disconnect it! No use for racing, far more dangerous when it trips over kerbs than the fire risk. Rely on your plumbed in fire ex. for a fire. Having been in a race and have it trip with 20 cars right behind me, even though I could turn it back on, the sudden pause, when people werent expecting it behind, caused chaos.

And a little bit of PTFE tape on the thread....