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Guy Lowe

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Everything posted by Guy Lowe

  1. Guy Lowe

    0

    Edited by - guy lowe on 12 Dec 2013 16:12:21
  2. Edited by - Guy Lowe on 10 Dec 2013 21:37:42
  3. Thank you for the replies and emails, it seems this is a bit like oil and tyre pressure threads, there are many varying opinions. Many people have used a cover of one sort or another but few have ever removed them for inspection or cleaning. In my case it was 10 years ago I fitted my RIF covers, I treated the whole area with Waxoyl and then ACF-50, sealed all the edges with a high performance, heat proof, elastic recovery non shrinking sealant. Four years ago I removed the covers, air lined them out, jet washed them, treated with Keronite and then Waxoyl, ACF-50 ect. There was not much in the way of solid matter in there but what was in there was very wet (before using the jet wash 😬) even though the car had been sitting in the garage for 4 weeks without an engine in it. Now four years later the engine is out again (don’t ask 😔) and the findings are exactly the same and again the car has not been used since the L2B which was a dry day. So my theory and that of some others is that you will never totally eliminate water, salt and small debris from entering this area for various reasons, side skin and chassis flexing, ingress from between the bottom chassis rail and the bottom edge of the skin, the difficulty in sealing the lower end of the cover because this is where the diagonal chassis member joint with the lower rail is (standard S3 chassis) etc. etc. etc. So if you cannot eliminate ingress completely, would in not be best (as ozzy said) to leave it open? This is the theory of some including me, if it is left open hot air would be passing through drying out the debris, if they are dry they are going to cause a lot less corrosion than wet derbies resting against the ali skin for weeks or months in the case of the sorning brigade, on end. Leaving them open would also facilitate easier regular cleaning out, re treating with whatever takes your fancy. This is only my personal opinion based on my experience, my not so lateral thinking and the experiences of others who I have spoken to. Nothing more than that. Guy (Edited as I cannot spell Waxoyl) 😳 Edited by - Guy Lowe on 11 Dec 2013 11:20:40
  4. Three minutes and I didnt even have to leave the garage. Thank you Stuart
  5. Sorry about this, I have never quite got the hang of searching, always get too many results so can someone tell me what the approximate camber degree change per turn of top ball joint is please? Thanks Guy
  6. Guy Lowe

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    Good afternoon young man, I trust you are well? If my memory serves me right it was o o Guy
  7. Judging from all the email I have received, either Richard never put these into production or I have not explained myself very well, probably the latter So THESE are the covers in question, they are intended to be struck to the end of the footwell and butt up against the side skin, then sealant is used to seal off the 'grot trap', to stop water and debris entering, well that is/was the theory. Anyone fitted them? Guy
  8. Guy Lowe

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    Edited by - guy lowe on 28 Nov 2013 13:22:21
  9. A few years ago I helped Richard Lee (aka RIF) design a carbon cover for the grot traps between the foot well and the side skin. I think he used me because I was having my car re skinned and he only had an SV at the time. Well to cut a long story short, when the design was finished and the cover put into production he gave me a pair which I fitted and sealed. I have the engine out at the moment and decided to remove the covers, clean out the grot traps, re Waxoyl and refit the covers, but before I do I want to know the experiences of people who fitted these covers or made up something similar. Thanks in advance. Guy Edited by - guy lowe on 3 Dec 2013 11:21:24
  10. Guy Lowe

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    Edited by - guy lowe on 21 Nov 2013 10:16:34
  11. Chris, have you tried Redline? I was there yesterday & they have nose cones and wings in stock, not sure if they do gel coat or what colours but worth a try before you pay Vicfibretech prices 😳 😬 Guy
  12. Quoting old gimmer: After paying D.C. and waiting 8 weeks and after frequent promises and receiving nothing, yes they are certainly cheap. Ordered mine (and a couple of pairs for local members) on the Monday, picked them up and paid for them on the Friday of the same week It would be a shame if they have, as Chris says, stopped production. Guy
  13. Quoting old gimmer: Dartford Composites, from my experience, a complete waste of time. At £18 inc. from Dartford Composites I can put up with his 'strange' manner Guy
  14. I bought bought my last pair from DARTFORD COMPOSITES, they don't stock them but made them for me in a couple of days. Guy
  15. Quoting Nigel Riches: I've replaced various bushes on my car and never needed a 30 ton press, some deft thinking and a collection of long bolts, nuts and washers, with some suitably sized socket spanners and a bench vice is what you need, it's not a moon rocket, it's a Caterham 7, simple. Not as simple as a 30 TON press (IMO) Guy
  16. Why didn't you get it direct from Radtec? they give discount and free NEXT DAY delivery for club members. Guy
  17. Dave I will take the studs please, YHM. Guy
  18. I'll take the 8 x longer wheel studs, new and unfitted. but would appreciate it if you could let me know the exact length or part number. Cheers Guy
  19. Guy Lowe

    Tyre suppliers

    Try ADAMS & PAGE they will normally match any price and will fit at thier High Wycombe depot. Guy
  20. Andy, sorry but I will need it Ian, from memory it's about 150cm x 80cm folded but it's very heavy Guy
  21. TBKBABABTIM you have PBM re the engine crane and leveller. Guy
  22. Guy Lowe

    Caterham bits

    I will take the 2 Freestyle "green" springs 7" long 1.9"ID £25 pair + postage if I may. Blatmail sentre contact details. Guy
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