Guy Lowe

Thanks for the emails pointing out that I have not detailed the overall (shipping) dimensions which are: 390cm long x 210 wide. So a really compact little trailer. Guy

Yes it is Phil. Guy

Nigel You shouldn't have a problem as long as your radiator is sound, I have a Raceline set up, 92C stat and like Nigel Fox I don't use an expansion tank, there is no need or benefit according to Pete McEwen and I would agree. Guy ETA . My ECU controls my fan. Edited by - Guy Lowe on 19 Feb 2014 07:53:23

Peak single axle 1300KG braked trailer load capacity 890KG. Overall (shipping) dimensions 390cm long x 210 wide Bed size 165cm x 280cm so it WON’T take an SV Brakes and bearings serviced 2 years ago Re wired and new lights 3 years ago Two new tyres last August 13” wheels Spare wheel (tyre okay but old) Hitch lock (rusty & only one key) Rear prop stands Ali checker plate ¾ center decking Single ‘over the wheel’ strapping (straps and ratchets included) Fits in a standard garage (you have to bend the rubber marker lights a bit though) I have had this little trailer for 5 years and it’s been great, because it’s single axle it is easy to push and manoeuvre in tight spaces and driveways even with the 7 on it. I have done many miles without any problems it tows really well, I once towed it back from a track day with a VW Golf and it was fine. I am selling it because my son and I are going to get a tin top track day car so I need something bigger. It’s not perfect, it’s been stored outside for the last 5 years and I have welded strengthening plates above the axle mountings, but at £600 it’s a bargain and ideal for someone who wants to tow their 7 to track days rather than drive it. PICTURES Happy to discuss local (ish) delivery/meeting up etc. for a club member. Situated in GU15 Guy Edited by - Guy lowe on 27 Feb 2014 10:18:05

Sorry I should have opened Elie's link first, they are: 4½ x 7 part No: 56-1320 Guy

Nigel, I'm not sure of the K & N number for the complete unit but the filter element I use is Part No: E-3341 I was not keen on the chrome finish so I had them powder coated, but either way they look so much better than foam and I still get 200+ BHP. Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 Image 4 Guy

I shall be traveling to West Somerset (Williton) from Camberley and back several times in an (empty) VW Transporter van over the next month via the A303 & Taunton if I can be of any use. Guy ETA Can go via Bridgewater if Langport is not flooded Edited by - Guy lowe on 12 Feb 2014 05:35:36

Whatever you do make sure it is bolted down well not just to a block of wood but to the drill stand itself. I have the scars on the palms of my hands and my wrist to prove that this makes good sense Guy

Quoting andy_h: Being a tart I wanted the fronts to match my rears (all 888's) but 185's on front. yes you are a tart 😬 You need more wheels & tyres Andy, at the last count I have 18 wheels & 20 tyres but don't tell the wife

I would stay away from 205's on the rear for the type of driving required for the Supercar event, you just adding more stress to the drive train. Last year I was getting tons of under steer down the far end of the circuit and did not notice hardly any wear on the fronts, remember we only do about 18 miles (probably less when you take account of the doughnuts 😬) and the surface was carp. On the Sunday last year someone (yellow or orange car IIRC) was running ZV3's and they seemed ideal as you'll never wear them out and I am sure there will be loads of part worn ones of those lying about. Guy

Quoting Roger Ford: Where did you get the square u-bolts? Not finding them easy to source. take your pick:- here here here The Transit leaf spring ones look strong but expensive. Guy. ETA The ones I got have 'BACK PLATES' which fit under the trailer bed to spread the load, I would recommend you do the same & if they don't come with them, buy some or make some up. Edited by - Guy Lowe on 15 Jan 2014 08:45:40

Quoting Roger Ford: How did you attach the ratchets, Guy? Are there just screws through the trailer into that wooden block? No the ratchets I bought had pre drilled holes so I used M10 bolts to bolt them direct to the chassis HERE, then drilled the wheel stop block slightly so it fits over the nut flush with the chassis rail. Quoting Roger Ford: Looks like you're using 50mm (2 inch) straps - is that correct? 50mm ones seem a lot more available and a lot cheaper than 75mm ones. Yes there are rated at 4000Kgs which seemed enough and they are quite cheap (but not from screwfix ) Guy

They look far too big Roger 😳 Guy

Quoting Roger Ford: That's very neat (and cheap!). So you just have a single strap running longitudinally along each pair of wheels? Yep so quick to strap down and very secure. Guy

I just fitted an 8 mm square U bolts (if that makes sense) in front of the rear wheels and behind the front wheel. Hook a 5 metre strap on the back of the trailer, over there rear wheel through the first U bolt, along the deck through the next U bolt, over the front wheel and the onto the ratchet which is bolted to the front of the trailer. So all the drilling is only 8.5 holes and strapping the car down takes less than a minute. Have a look HERE HERE and HERE, If you need more info or pictures Roger please feel free to email me, or you could pop down the M3 and take a look. Guy

Quoting 7 wonders of the world: Guy, Assuming the replacement cams are more performance oriented then the OE timing slots with the locking bar stands a very good chance of being way out - these should be clocked in to establish running clearances etc and then adjusted on the rollers to optimise performance. Not sure I understand your question as I do not have verniers fitted, just standard pulleys. Fitting high performance cams is exactly the same as fitting standard OE ones. At the opposite end of the cams to the pulley, your see a slot in the end of the cams (this slot is exactly the same on Standard and Kent/Piper cams). With the bolts on both cam pulleys loose, line the slots up insert a locking bar which locks both the cams together and the bar sits flat on the face of the head, the bar will only go in when the cams are BOTH in the correct position, set No.1 to TDC with a dial gauge, make sure the engine is still at TDC, then tighten both the cam pulley bolts and remove locking tool. job done The only way I would ever entertain adjusting individual cam timing is if I had verniers fitted. Guy

Forgot to say, that the 4mm bar will slide nicely on the top edge of the head into the locking slots when the cams are in the correct position Guy

Quoting 7 wonders of the world: If your using Kent or Piper and assuming the valve clearances are currently correct they will be a straight swap as the base circles are ground to give the correct clearances based on the OE ones. I fitted Kent (Raceline 200) cams to a brand view 2L Blacktop and the clearances were way way out, nearly all being much tighter and I had to get 11 re ground. Quoting Phil B: Craig, Which cams are you going to fit? I've got the Racekine 200s which you can time up using the standard Ford setting tool. The only fun and games is measuring clearances and selecting new shims, or are you running a silvertop? As mine were all too thick I had them ground down by an engineering company who have a magnetic grinder, not sure if it was cheaper than buying new ones but it allowed me to get them to the exact tollorences. To set the valve timing, get number 1 at TDC with a dial gauge, then get the cams in position and slide a length of 4mm angle or iron bar though the rear cam slots to lock the cams in position. As always Craig, you have my number if I can be of assistance. Guy

Not spotted, but I went past the end of your road at about 14:30 this afternoon Craig, I giving my new front suspension & LSD a shake down, it was bl@@dy cold and a bit slippery on the way back through Lyne 😳 Guy

Quoting Mowerman: aka Kev...Little Kev yer, in your dreams 😬 Guy

Craig YHM Guy

Quoting zetec: I have a bling cover waiting at raceline Just need tution on how to make it fit! ( please) You need a couple of black cap head bolts from Margnor Fastners in Jacobs Well & some spacers. I'll get them for you next time I'm over there and then you can bring your car over & we can do it, a bit of cutting is needed to fit it to the Black Top. Guy

The cover works fine for me, I have been in some pretty torrential downpours (Le Mans Classic 2008 ) and never had a problem 😶‍🌫️ As Eugene says, the engine tilts forward in a Caterham so all you need to do is drill a 4mm hole either side at the front of the cover in the same place as the 'standard' holes that are at the rear. Probably best to drill them with the cover off rather than trying to drill through the pulleys 😬 Guy Edited by - Guy Lowe on 15 Dec 2013 17:22:53

Quoting Eugene: I have added drain holes at the front of the cam cover, as the cant of the engine is wrong for the standard drain holes. Simple process, and no more water in with the plugs. I dont get water on my plugs because I have a Raceline BLING cover Simple process Edited by - Guy Lowe on 12 Dec 2013 16:30:42