Jump to content
Click here to contact our helpful office staff ×

Guy Lowe

Member
  • Posts

    4,589
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Everything posted by Guy Lowe

  1. I did the same as SM25T & others, drill two 2.5mm holes and use a 2.5mm cable tie either side.
  2. Reply to #4 That's what I thought Mr Whitley
  3. If you don't have any luck on here I would have chat with Chris at Redline
  4. Bit further north of London but highly recommended https://7workshop.co.uk/index.html
  5. Reply #14 Hi Ian, yes I have also heard that so I always jack under the diff. Don't want to hijack this thread but briefly the story from the thread linked above is: "At about 35mph, rear of car suddenly stepped out to the middle of the road and crabbed along with no prior warning. Earlier in the day I had done some 'hot' laps of Hethel, and this happened on the way home 36 miles later. The car is a 1991 and had done about 16,000 road miles. Arch sand blasted and re powder coated the chassis including the tube in 2004 when I did a ground up rebuild. At no time did they or I notice anything wrong. Always jacked from under the diff, but previous owner could have used the tube as a jacking point." Guy
  6. Baggiebird - I am not qualified to say if there are any handling advantages of either of the two mounting points, however like you and from an engineering point of view the “through the tube” mounting seems a better, stronger option. Due to a De Dion failure in 2007 I did some research and came across Ian Bruce’s very informative post Summary of Dedion tube failures and it became quite obvious that, although mine wasn’t, the majority of failures were with the under slung damper mounts shearing off. The tubes are still a stock item at Caterham Cars (P/No: 79016) so your choice to stick with the "through the tube" mounting will be fine should you ever need to replace the tube in the future. Guy
  7. I have had the Lidl one for about 6 years and its been faultless
  8. Not sure that using PTFE tape on brakes is good engineering practice.
  9. After following you on the sighting laps at Brands Hatch, I would ask yourself if you will stay on the track long enough to get any heat into slicks Dave
  10. Looks fine to me, the movement would be that it was only on the "first stage" and needed to be pushed fully on to the "second stage" IYKWIM
  11. Guy Lowe

    Brakes

    That's quite normal and I get through about 3 sets of rear pads to one set of fronts, that's why I say standard front calipers are adequate for fast road/track driving. Guy p.s. I do about 800 miles per year, all track day mileage, I don't use my car on the road much
  12. # 4 Yes the shim replaces the dust shield so that the caliper is aligned correctly. Contract http://www.redlinecomponents.co.uk/ they will have them and the bolts
  13. Guy Lowe

    Brakes

    The standard calipers will be fine for >200HP on track, upgrading is a total waste of money. Roger Ford put up a very helpful post a couple of years back (yes I have searched for it ) about how Caterham Graduates race cars with standard calipers and discs never have any problems with heat or fade and I'm sure they put greater demands on their brakes than the average track day warrior does, just put some Mintex 1144 pads in the fronts and run standard pads in the rears IMO.
  14. As with TomB, I had the inside of the side skins powder coated, got to be done, really pleased.
  15. Top Ball Joint Jacking/Splitting Tool from Gemzoe Motorsport, brilliant bit of kit
  16. Sorry........ there appears to be some confusion here with this second thread being started, it was quite clear from my original thread that the visor sticker the majority expressed an interest in was this one: Not the one with the childish pink squiggly line across the front shown in post #7 here. Therefore if that's the design and new logo OUR CLUB has decided to adopt count me out, I will get my own made thanks.
  17. And not the sort of car you would have thought Duncan Hamilton ROFGO would normally get involved with.
  18. I have just replaced all mine, got the pipe, filters and fittings from Think Automotive more expensive than eBay but they are very helpful and really know their stuff. I think they extend a L7C discount as well.
×
×
  • Create New...