Gridgway

Thanks Tony, that's a good idea. Shall I give you my address? Graham

can anyone make a precision piece of carbon fibre? I have an ABC Hobby model L7. The front suspension consists of an upper and lower wishbone and uprights. The wishbones are precsion cut from a flat sheet of carbon fibre (approx 2mm). It's kind of 2 A's back to back. Is there anyone out there that can precision cut a piece of 2mm carbon (overall size about 1" x 1.5") to copy a broken piece? I got the entry speed too high, missed the apex and hit the arnco (washing line pole)! Graham

how can the bearing be correctly adjusted but have too much play? I thought that correct adjustment was do it up until you only got slight play? Contradiction in terms. Graham

that'll be the new rover handbrake with the rubber handle that doesn't come off. Can't suggest a solution, but have seen one! Graham

I have sent my spare popper tool to many people who have borrowed it and then sent it back! Even cheaper than £7.00! Graham

generally bushes that have parted (rubber and metal come adrift) can squeeek. Also look at the radius arms. Graham

I was very pleased with the oil analyses (2 of) I had done on my R500 oil, when I was trying to work out quite how knacked the engine was. It was tested against new oil as a control and both commentaries I got were quite close to what was found in the rebuild. Graham

I have adjusted and used the handbrake now the the pedal isn't as long as it was. However, I am still not that happy with it. I think it must be some air. I am also going to bed the pads in some more and then maybe try bleeding again. Graham

I have the tool from a 'pop down to halfrauds'. It is available to be borrowed from Epsom if required. Graham

nope, standard! Graham

that's possible, but my current setup is identical to the one on my R500 which had a much better pedal. Why should they be different? Graham

I have had a search of the archives for this problem, but apart from bleeding and bleeding, I cannot find any other ideas on what to try. On big fronts and standard rears, regular MC, the pedal has been soft since I bought the car, but always works. The pads needed changing which I have done and bled the brakes in the hope that I would make an improvement. All seems the same. Soft pedal with lots of travel, but the brakes do work, they are just not very inspiring. How do I diagnose the source of the problem? How do you isolate calipers without clamping brake lines? Graham

if it's actually grease (not diff oil), then the only place it can come from is the drive shaft CV joint. It must be leaking from the gaitor. It's either split, nicked (not as in stolen) or the clip wasn't put on properly. Check the condition of the gaitor and see if you can see where it is coming from. Graham

I was with AF and had the most appalling time. They were a complete shower in almost every respect. I bought a ploicy with track day cover on the phone and there was no mention of it in the docs, so I phoned and they denied I had asked for it. I read them copious contemporaneous notes of the phone call and they relented. They had to get another insurer though. Then wanted me to pay extra, then forgot to tell me (until after I had done three track days) that I needed a cover note (no payment) for each day, then tried to put a price on each individual day part way through, then tried to put up the track day excess, then tried to take away track day cover part way through. The two good points were that they had a fantastic (as in efficient) woman incharge of customers complaining whom I got on with very well (ditto). The second was that when someone rear-ended me at some lights who wasn't insured, the claim and repair process was first class. They tried to get the last laugh when they tried to put my premium up from about £450 to £2000 on renewal. I took the hint and went elsewhere! YMMV Graham

aha in that case you are talking about the speedo drive spindle that goes through the gbox. I was talking about the speedo right-angle drive that is circlipped on to the outside! I agree, the former would be very hard! Graham

just fitted one to my 6speeder in situ. Bit fiddely, but not hard. Needs circlip pliers though. Graham

I now have the worst one of the two apart and the outermost bearing is the one that rumbles. The inner one seems to be 'pushed' in. Is it straightforward to get out? No idea how many miles they have done as the car is new to me. Graham

I have the pads out, that's when I found that both make a noise and both don't spin as freely I would have expected. Not heard anything driving along though. Anyone know what wheel bearings they are? Graham

Anyone know what the min disk thickness is for AP big brakes. I have 16.5mm and 16.7mm. No idea how worn they are though. Tks Graham

Anyone know how to tell if they are duff. I have been changing brake pads today and spun the front hubs. They both make a noise and are not as free as I would have expected. One of them kind of moves with a discrete motion as if ball bearings are sitting in grooves. Does that make sense? How do I tell if the bearings are duff? How does one change front wheel bearings? Graham

forgive my ignorance Jerry, but most of my cars (inc the 7) only have 2 track rod ends! Where are your 4 located?? GRaham

nice 13" wheels? Graham

Don't be silly Arnie, it couldn't be an acronym for that as it is grammatically in error, being tautological in nature. Graham

Hi Paul, I'll buy a relay kit as I have to get one, if you are happy to post one to me (I won't be at Stoneleigh). Tks Graham

in an attempt to prove the 'Paul Richards' method to myself, I have soldered in a fly lead to the solenoid feed wire. So when I get the click I hop out and with the appropriate amount of (ge)spitzen-sparken I put my fly-lead on the batt to see if it starts. So far, click-occasions: 2, start with fly lead: 2. So conclusive so far! I'll prob never get round to fitting the relay! Graham