Gridgway

Darren, I have always found CC to be first class re warranty probs. If you are worried then mention it before the warranty expires ("if this problme happens again over the coming months you will see to it won't you even if it is outof the official warranty period?"). Hoopy said "Caterham have been selling R400s for about a year and they've still not got a map thats any good". If this is the general consensus of us lot (L&C7 Club) then we should ask CC (maybe Jez) to tell us (maybe in LF) what they have done and what the problems have been and whether they are cured or not. It is in CC's best interest to dispell a poor reputation either by addressing the problem or telling us how it's been addressed. Would make a good LF article anyway...we don't get enough CC content in the mag anyway. Graham

what ECU does the R400 have? I think it's an MBE, so will need some wiring work done to fit an Emerald. Also, if it's a new R400 then you would probably stuff the warranty by slapping an emerald on. GRaham

Caterham recommendation is 9.5" from bottom of DS tank ISTR. don't forget the knobly shelf that can fool the unwary dipstick (that's almost witty - for me anyway!) Graham

I have had a flat plate the width of the throttle pedal circular pressy bit welded on to make a similar extension as I have trouble H&T'ing in the caterham by rolling my foot. In mine it is not helped by H&T'ing with different brake pedal pressures. The height of the brake pedal thus changes. Although as ECR points out you need to be near or on the limit of braking to need it. I def find it easier to H&T with the side of my foot lower down rather than side near the ball of my foot IYSWIM. Would an alternative technique for the *really* skillful be to moderate the brake pressure applied by the foot at the point of gear change to keep the braking at max? This wouldn't work for 'lead-feet' Carmichael of course (ref previous braking thread!). Graham

tks Graham

Just loading up PC's car onto the communal Minno and the Minno tyres look a bit flat. Anyone know what the pressures should be? Graham

ah yes, just been to the Pace web site (doh). Kit excluding tank is £843, tank aprox £150. Tks Mav Graham

where would I get one from and how much does it cost for a k series? Tks Graham

standard caterham starter problem... 2 causes - if the solenoid is on top then the solenoid connection could well have vibrated/heated itself loose. Take solenoid off, take apart and re-solder. You can work round this by using a long (insulated) big screwdriver to short from the main feed (big fat red wire) to the solenoid connection. DONT short the feed to the exhaust. Wiggling the solenoid feed sometimes does the job. - if the solenoid is below then something goes wrong with the circuit so that there is enough juice to click the relay but not activate the solenoid. This can also happen to the solenoid-on-top type. Re wire with feed to solenoid going straight from the batt (via a fuse) switched by a relay. The relay is activated by the 'old' solenoid feed. You can work round this by soldering in a fly lead to the solenoid feed (at the solenoid end). Run the free end up by the battery and secure out of the way. Whenit won't start touch the bare wire end to the positive terminal on the batt with the ignition on and the gbox in neutral to start. Graham

that is what I mean. However the getting the calipers as vertical as poss worked for me. You have to snip the ties holding the brake pipes to the DD tube, remove the T piece from where it's bolted to the tube and you have enough play to get the calipers with the bleed nippled pretty much at the top and keep the pads on the disk if you are gentle/careful! Graham

hmmm... PC - I did think about whether it was that problem and having carefully considered the whys and wherefores, analysed my motivations and thought processes, I have come to a definite conclusion...maybe. svenmad - "Gears to go, brakes to slow...", that's just brainwashing twaddle from the 'advanced motorist' brigade. hoopy - "only on VERY old vintage cars are the pedals such that you really use the heel", also on cars with floor mounted throttles (organ pedals) and my specially modded caterham pedal. I have lengthened the pedal so I can blip with the lower (IYSWIM) part of my foot having learned in a BMW2002 with a floor mounted pedal. tarek - "should "block change" down" not sure what "should" means here. I think there is great merit to an iterative (ie gear-by-gear) approach over the block change. ho hum! Graham PS for all you advanced motorists out there, I am the founder and sole member of the "right-to-ratchet" society!! Edited by - gridgway on 11 Jul 2003 19:36:38

I have had two distinct experiences in this area...one is just tap with hammer and alls well, but recently I had a horrible time trying to get the air out. Finally I had the rear of the car up high and the calipers unbolted and as vertical as the brake pipes would allow before I could get a decent pedal. Also try blocking the pedal for a few hours. No idea why, but seems to be a wifes tale that might work! Graham

I normally block change to the gear I want to be in under braking with a blip of the throttle, but there again, sometimes I get all 'roadcrafty' and don't overlap braking and changing gear, but sometimes I go down the gears blipping away, just for fun! Variety etc! Graham

I have previously removed the strip (by unsewing), drilled the holes in it and put it back. Then got er indoors to sew it up again. Graham

I am amazed that you need that level of cooling, especially the 3kw fan! Why did you go to such a high cooling solution? Graham

normally acb's on radial camber settings wear on the inside, not the outside. So I have no idea what is going on here. Graham Ps written using the tablet PC input panel. Not one error with my handwriting!! Fantastic

lots of slack is required. Graham

I always have to go to the FAQ/Smilies page to get an example to edit! Graham

something like this Freestyle Motorsport Graham ps never seen a caterham powered by Sage before! now thats wot I call good software! Edited by - gridgway on 1 Jul 2003 22:13:34

re the R500 airbox, I got 229 bhp on Dave Walkers rr with the airbox on my (ex) R500. Didnt do another test with it off though - should have done really. Graham

the flat floor setup is a little way off measured using the PC method with me in the driver's seat. However I noticed the effect both with me driving and me passengering at Castle Coombe yesterday. As a passenger the drivers were all ickle (ie 13-15 yr olds) which would even up the flat flooring. I think it would have to be way off to account for the pulling though. Graham (Non adjustable platforms at the moment, so need to change those and re-flat-floor).

they are brand new ACB10s. Unfortunately they are on the wrong way round with all the product code number things to the outside (owing to the incompetence of the tyre fitter and my incorrect assumption that being a tyre fitter at track days fitting ACB10s, CR500s and yokos to Elises, he weould be competent). Not sure if that could be responsible for pulling to the right effect. Graham

I thought I could see that my front wheels have different camber settings. I measured them in a rough and ready way (Spirit level, ruler and a calculator). Also I can see by the threads on the upper wishbone where the camber is adjusted that it is different. By my crude measuring, one side is 1.9 degrees and the other is 2.6 degrees neg camber. Is this a problem? I have also noted that the car pulls to the right under WOT. This is noticeable with ACB10s on, but much less (or not at all) with CR500s. Are the two things likely to be related, or is the pulling to one side likely to be more to do with something at the back? Graham

U followin me Mav? Graham

the symptoms are sender no doubt! Change it and see what happens! Actually my advice is to dump the OP guage, what use is it? Mine is so erratic that the only use it has is keeping me amused on the motorway! Graham