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Gridgway

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Everything posted by Gridgway

  1. replacing the DD is really quite easy. You can take it all apart and put it back together! Something like... Unclip the rear AR bar from the DD. unbolt calipers and remove brake pipe fixings (cable ties) and BP T piece from DD tube. Suspend out of the way. Don't try to undo the hydraulics. Unbolt the ears and hubs and remove the drive shafts from the diff. take off the rear A frame fixing to the DD and let the A frame dangle! Undo the bottom shock bolts (maybe the top ones as well and remove the shock/springs. Slide out the DD and put in the new one. Reverse the above procedure. That maybe about it! Graham
  2. an astounding coincidence thinfourth. I was just thinking earlier this evening that my Caterham needed an upgrade. And I finally settled on a more reliable engine, a marine diesel. How strange is that??? What do you recommend? I am a bit worried about the engine oil viscosity though? As well as the effect of the salt on the aluminium. Mind you, as torque is more important than BHP, I think I'm on the right track. Graham
  3. well you must be much better at it than me Nig! I always found that dipping was very precise and worked. trying to get it to come out into the catch tank was extremely hit and miss (BTW how on earth do you measure what comes out when you change the oil and how do you know it;s the right amount?). I also thought that using the method prescribed by Caterham would stand me in better stead than a home made method! Graham
  4. I disagree with the oil in the catch tank method as, well, not methodical and prone to error. There is absolutely no rationale for filling the engine until it pi$$es oil out into the catch tank and claiming it is the correct level. Make a dipstick with a 9.75 inch measure point (it always used to be 9.5 with my R500 but I'll bow to an updated level) and use that. Engine hot, run the engine, dip quickly after turning off and make sure you get to the bottom of the tank. Graham
  5. I think they are only required for long trips now. Could be my usual bo$$ocks tho. GRaham
  6. is that the mems immobiliser? Graham
  7. so not really a Roadsport A race car then! Doesn't really affect your problem though. Might be worth getting the cam timing checked. Graham
  8. An alternative thought...how did your roadsport A car get to be an 1800ss?? They are 1600. I had a prob with my 1600ss that it would often stall in the circs you describe. It was down to the cam timing. It had had the head skimmed and the cam timing was not quite right. A set of verniers later (thanks Tommo) and the right timing (thanks Mr SA) and all was well. Graham
  9. wow that's a record, someone actually wearing out their Pilots! Goddyear Eagles??? Are you mad? Caterham put on the Pilots as they were better than the Eagles!!! Someone once described driving a 7 with GSDs on like trying to drive a St Bernard across a wet kitchen floor!!! Graham
  10. bit of terminology mismatch here. You have gone from non-adjustable ride-height to adjustable. The dampers are still not adjustable. You need to check that you have got the correct rake which I cannot remember but might be 15mm higher at the back. The non-watt-linkage DD setup changes characteristics by ride-height, so playing with that should make a difference. Graham
  11. I can dig out the details of the people I use (BSR Aerotek) if you need. First class service Graham
  12. could be right Mark, but I thought the race one was 8" - there isn't a cover thingy to fit. It was a couple of years ago. Graham
  13. You may find that a new Caterham race silencer which is prob 8" does the job. Worked fine getting my (previous) SLR quiet. Probably the most cost effective, but not as fashionable as a nice aftermarket one. Graham
  14. Gridgway

    "Race" M/C

    Good condition or new "race" m/c wanted. Graham
  15. I have had clunks from worn out UJs on the prop before now. Graham
  16. well as the owner of a previous Andy owned Titanium Silver 7, I would buy it except that I erm own one already which (although well used at 38k miles) is a good piece of kit. Anyway makes a good BTTT. Graham
  17. great, can you remind him Len that he was going to call me whenthey were fixed to arrange a session? Ta Graham
  18. are Gary's scales working yet Len? I still need to get a proper setup er set up! Graham
  19. dare I ask why Pierre, or just wait and see??!! Graham
  20. been running my yummy AVO/FS dampers at 10 clicks rear and 0 clicks front on the road for a few days. On the smooth bits it's brilliant and points and sticks like you wouldn't believe. It is a bit harsh over the bumps though!! Now to try the reverse...harder at the front and soft at the back to see what happens. Haven't had so much fun in ages! Graham
  21. less bhp/tonne less wild cams And I can't think of a reason that an R500 would work well where an R300 wouldn't. But it could be that the R500 was a long time in development compared with the R300. And another thing, if a rather sad amateur (PC) can map a 150-160ish bhp engine on an emerald and Jenvey's with nothing but sealing wax, string and interpolation, surely Caterham can get it right. Graham
  22. I quite like the easibleed, works well for me. Graham
  23. Gridgway

    Smokin' K

    well the chinese on saturdays is a given! I guess I'll have to give in and let you have your car back when you have finished enjoying yourself in JF land! Graham
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