Gridgway
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Everything posted by Gridgway
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I have decided that I cocked up on my Yeti. I need an S frame rather than an M. So I am going to rebuild the bike on a new frame, leaving the current one for sale. It was new in august and hasn't exactly seen heavy use...about 6 outings. So it is in as new condition. I am looking for £1200. Current retail 1599. Graham Edited by - gridgway on 14 Jan 2009 21:17:37
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fantastic, if only I had the space (and not quite as many cars)! I wonder if I could swap out one of the other cars...Mind you , means getting an 18yr old and a 20 yr old insured on it. That's not gonna work :-( Graham Edited by - Gridgway on 10 Jan 2009 23:17:48
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Interesting, I wonder if Caterham have any accident stats of different types of Caterham configuration? - not that they'd probably tell us! ETA: I mean injuries per type Grahm Edited by - Gridgway on 5 Jan 2009 16:19:51
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The problem is that you don't actually know how far you move in a crash. It's a surprisingly long way. It's just not very testable without er crashing. My GT3 had the front section of the cage fitted which seemed a long way from my head. The Manual is very specific about not having the cage on the road and not driving with the cage unless you wear a helmet. Suffice to say, it's no longer fitted. Graham
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I don't know how you can be sure that your head will not hit the cage. It's all well and good for saying 5cm between helmet and cage. That doesn't mean a safe gap at all. crash+head+cage=death, even if padded. Graham
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You do have more cranking amps with a gel battery, but at the expense of volts. This can make starting hard with some ecus (like the MBE on my gen 1 R500). It's just not a given that the gel battery is better. I had a nice tray fabricated for my gel battery and after a few months awful starting, diagnosed the problem. I fitted the proper tray, a banner and it was fine from there on. I had a banner in my most recent 7 that was dead when I bought it and I coaxed it back into life and it lasted a further 3 years. Excellent battery. My point was really that it is not a given that a gel battery is better than a banner. Graham
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so, for a small weight saving, and a battery that everyone says is *way* better, but can't substantiate why (but hey let's not let the facts get in the way of a good story), you need to hack your wiring and bodge the battery/tray installation to stop it going awol (I recomend toilet rolls). Or just stick with a perfectly sensible banner that does the job. Graham oh and if you have an MBU ecu, it doesn't like the lower volts that gel batteries produce when cranking.
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How strange, clearly commerce has changed recently. I thought the normal course was: Seller advertises Prospective buyer makes offer Seller makes counter offer Go round that loop a few times Usually deal done. Hey ho! Graham
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what's with the ? Graham
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If you are up for a cheeky offer, I'll offer £30 for it. Graham
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Is the engine just wedged in then? It's good for Caterham to be taking it out and fixing the problem, but will it not get damaged being transported there? Has anyone come across an actual chassis problem like this before? Never seen one mentioned! Graham
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what, you mean the way BC emails you to alert you to the fact you have a post saying you er previously had an email? Graham
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spoke to porky parts dept today and he agreed that the level wasn't high enough (apparently "the plates must've soaked up more than usual"!!!!). They'll fill it properly if I take it in. Mind you he was pretty ungracious when I explained that I had hoped for better! A properly filled battery, caps put back on properly and not acid all over the top. Graham
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I'll check out with said opc tomorrow what they were playing at. Graham
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So I go to visit my local reputable german car dealer today to buy a new battery. Apparently they are stored dry and filled with acid when needed. How quaint thought I, what not sealed-fer-life? No apparantly not. So I get said battery home and have a look: - the caps are not screwed down properly - there is electrolyte all around the tops of the caps Anyway, that's all fixable by the average home mechanic (where's me fingers gone?). But the real question is how full should the battery be? I think the electrolyte should be at the level of those plastic bits you can see to er show you the level. And given that it is low, should it be topped up with more eletrolyte or just distilled water? Tks Graham
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Yes, I saw that one Darren. There seems to be a couple of DiGis. It needs a "digital speedo pulse" which don't have on the Rad (no speedo at all). Any ideas on how to produce one? Graham
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Apparently the ZZR1100 doesnt have the facility for a gear indicator. So I thought I would ask the combined blatchat brains! Are there any (reliable) aftermarket kits that use revs and driveshaft speed? Graham
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ISn't the mounting bracket you have in the picture on the rhs of the engine actually the lhs bracket? Graham
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Just been looking and there doesnt seem to be a MoT requirement for reversing lights, not even that they should work if fitted. Cany anyone confirm this? Thanks Graham
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I had the wrong grade of nylon in the nyloc for the upper ball joints in my R500 kit many moons ago. It got stuck and none of the tricks could get the taper to not turn (IYSWIM). I eventually got a splitter and split the nut to get it off before starting again with the right grade nyloc phew. I subsequently found the better trick to getting the nyloc off. Burn the nylon bit away with a blowtorch! You shouldn't have to do it, but it's a great tip! Graham
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Simon, weds and thurs are both fine for me, so let's say wednesday. Graham -
Mark, you are dibsed for the futaba tranny and bits. Others pipped you to the post for the other bits. Just need to get them to you. Graham
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pretty sure the bar is still there Grubbster, I'll mark you down for it. Graham
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Thanks for the replies. Graham - the hazards may be easy to fix, or not! It's a complete unknown to me in car I haven't got to grips wth yet - the car has been restored. Could be a simple fault, or the wiring for it may be completely shot. The thing I don't know is what an Mot tester will use as the definition of "fitted". With no switch and the hole in the dash covered up, surely it's not fitted! Anyway it may be easy to fix tomorrow. Graham
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I have been looking at the MoT manual online. In an aug 73 car, with respect to hazards, it only needs to be tested if fitted: "A hazard warning device is not required by Regulation, but, if one is fitted, it must be tested." If I were to remove the hazard switch from the dash and tape up the hole, would that count as not fitted and therefore not need to be tested? Graham
