Gridgway

So I wonder if it has any servicable parts - bushes that might be worn that I can change? It'll have to come out over the winter so I can see if it comes apart easily then.

Yes there are stops to reduce the lock.

When I had my 80s short cockpit LA car MOT'd I was warned about play in the rack on the LHS. The tester suggested where the track rod attaches. I've been checking it out and the play is not lateral play but that the inner tube is loose in the outer tube of the rack. Not sure of the source of the rack. I have posted a picture of the inner and outer below. Does anyone know whether this is serviceable and also what the rack came from originally. Thanks!

But that doesn't tell the whole story. Home built vehicles built before a certain date (was that when IVA came in) are visible smoke only which applies to both my 80's and 90's Caterhams

Ryan Hooker is very good and does a lot of work with Caterham racers.

If you ask Canley about their trunnionless kit they strongly recommend against using it in a caterham. It's to do with the lower wishbone fitting not being suitable.

Thanks Rob, I do have the front link kit fitted. Spax dampers condition unknown. Spring rate unknown at the moment. Was used for hillclimbs and has fairly ferocious LSD. Quite a lot to bring together to get the ideal road setup! Graham

Late to the topic but that oil looks exactly as I'd expect. Oil doesn't stay clean looking for any length of time at all. I've run many rebuilt race engines and it's always black at first change.

I'm contemplating what my winter project is going to be on the BDR as a recap I have recommissioned it after having not run since 2008. It's a short cockpit LA BDR. But it needs stuff doing. The synchros are shot so the box will come out. I'm thinking about the shocks and springs. It's very stiff at the rear and bounces around quite a lot. Has anyone any advice on how to proceed? I want a really compliant fun road car. I'm happy to replace shocks and springs to get something that works really well. Thanks!

Good result. Presumably the corrosion problem was with the 12v supply?

Just had a read of the Mintec document. He says to run the engine first time at 2k rpm without coolant. Never seen that done or heard of before. That's until the cylinder head is warm to touch, so presumably for a shortish time - maybe 5 mins or so? Maybe less. Then fill with coolant and run at 2k for 10 mins to bed in the cam lobes. I thought that doing the first 20 mins without stopping the engine was what most people seem to do for the cams. Then the running in, low loads, not too much throttle opening. no more that 60% rev limit for 500 miles. Feels like the low-stress version of the running in method to me. Nothing specific to bed in the rings. I think it's like many of these things, it doesn't really matter (eeek). I too have never had an engine that uses lots of oil because the rings haven't been bedded in properly and the Mintec dude doesn't seem to have a specific method for it.

to be super picky the thread starter is specifically talking about engine. I have no specific expertise, but I've watch a few race ford engines get run in on dynos and rolling roads. The cam running in period seems very similar across them and specific, but they get to "power runs" quite quickly raising the top end revs as they go.

So then it can only be on the supply side (assuming you've tried swapping bulbs - no idea how that could be a thing, but worth trying if you've not done so). I'd be trying to test the resistance of the +12v side of the connector to the bulb to the +12v battery connection (battery disconnected clearly). Then I might try a fly lead from the +ve supply from the other main beam and vice versa if that makes sense?

Where are you taking the earth from for the test, especially when you say you get 0v when the bulb is connected?

why that number of oil and filter changes?

for the high beam, feels like an earth problem. When you test for the 12v where do you get the earth from? Have you checked the continuity from the 0v connection to the bulb back to the -ve terminal of the battery?

I want to say that I sent oil to Ricardo way back in the past for testing. Might be worth a look

Splitting a crossflow from a 4 speed box in situ to take the engine out looks hard to me. Also there is definitely no way I'd be able to split my BDR from box in my short cockpit car. Always managed to take out and install my previous k-series separately though. So maybe it depends on engine and chassis?

I've got 185/70 Academy tyres on my xflow. There might still be availability - try BMTR. They seem to work fine

Derek Bell Trophy at donington for f5000 maybe?

What pad compound was it?

Just as a thought, new disks need to be bedded in as well so just fitting old pads might not have done the trick. But on the other hand it's pretty easy the get the pads and disks nice and toasty with a bit of left foot braking on the way to the test. That would do the trick

I might have some just discarded F2 Avon slicks if any use?

Vulcan engineering just next to the back entrance of Brands Hatch. https://www.vulcan-engineering.co.uk/

What is the external width please where the seats fit between the tunnel and the outside of the car? Just wondering if they'll fit my short cockpit car