Gridgway

I'm in the middle of a x-flow upgrade. I'm using CMK engineering in High Wycombe. Ant there is ace with historic engines and has so far built me a mega pinto for FF2000 and a mega twincam for my Lotus Elan GTS. He's starting with my 1600 caterham crossflow. Aim is about 150bhp without getting to excessive cost. We'll see how we get on, but he's an engine builder I trust! I'll report back.

It's a bit late to ask as I have nearly done the couple of tubes on my crossflow that needed doing, but I wondered how people do it. The instructions say that POR15 likes rust, but I don't like leaving rust even if the loose stuff is sanded off. Also, you get rust under the powder coat and the POR won't even get to it unless it's cleaned off. So my general approach is to get to bare clean metal before POR-ing What do others do? Cheers Graham

Mine doesn't have one I'm afraid! Again from memory, there are two wires that go to the bottom of the switch in a plug. Just take the plug off and bridge them. I don't think you can go wrong!

To make it simple. There's two wires that go to the switch. They need to be joined toghether to make a circuit. As simple as it gets!

Doesn't look like the NS2Rs are available in the larger size Graham

Thanks all, I have decided that what I will do is give the area a good clean and then spray some dinitrol in using their spray can plus extension hose idea. I'm not going to use the pressure washer as I suspect that will stay wet and ruin the dinitrol application - or even worse, seal water in! I may well use some brake cleaner for a final wash out as that can dry easily.

Thanks all. Somehow the wording on my actual post didn't appear after posting on my phone. Is that a known forum problem. Anyhow, you all understood the question! Regarding trying to seal the area, I'm not convinced that's at all easy, especially with the driver's side and the longer footwell. Getting it nice and clean and spraying dinitrol in sounds good. However, getting it nice and clean doesn't sound easy. Could use solvent like brake cleaner and an air line (with suitable face proection!). Or maybe the pressure washer, although not keen on doing that with the car in the garage. I know some of the powder coat has come off the square tube as it came out when I cleaned the crud out. What does dinitrol do when it encounters metal with surface rust? Does it just cover it and stop further rusting or does it bond to it like POR15? You can't really spray POR15 in there without making a horrid mess. Maybe it's mask-able? Maybe I should just clean as best as I can, spray some dinitrol in and not worry too much. It won't go out in the salt in my ownership!

It was very easy actually. Had the engine crane lifting one end with Mrs R rolling that back and I lifted the other end underneath, very simple. It's gone off now to Hardy Engineering to be refurbed mechanically and blasted for painting. I've also ordered an ATB from Quaife to be fitted at the same time. Don't think I'll try the American Grafiti method though!

Thanks, I'll have another go with help from Mrs R (working the engine crane). I've protected the chassis tubes, but was trying to support it clear of them. I've got it moved so the backing plate is inside as it were. I was musing that I should have done it while the tank was out! I'll report back!

On the final part of disassembly, I am taking the axle out to get an ATB fitted. But what's the practical way of getting the axle out? I have one end supported on a strop off an engine hoist so that can roll out. How does one support the other end? Is it just a question of lying on the floor underneath it and manually lifting while someone else moves the crane back? Cheers Graham

Thanks, I'll try that tomorrow. I thought it must be, but I didn't have the wherewithall to give it a go!

Thanks for all the help. After a bit of head scratching I decided to turn the bolt with a bigger lever. it might not move. It might sheer the centre part of the bush, or it might turn in the bush. I've been putting on plus gas for a week. Well it worked, with lots of screeching the bolt turned. Then lots of hard work later the bolt was out. The nearside one was much worse then the offside. Now I need to work out how to get the lower wishbone off as it looks like it has to come forward a long way for the front mounting to clear and it can't as the bodywork is in the way! I'll consult the build manual. Thanks all, another job on it's way!!

Yes, I may not have described it very well! The bolt is rusted onto the steel inner sleeve in the bush, and the movement is the rubber. I'll put a picture up shortly to show the orientation. I don't think that cutting the bolt is an option as the wishbone wont move as I'd thought it might! I've been pluss-gassing them for a while now.

Today's question regarding my crossflow live axle car is that the bolt that goes through the bush in the front lower wishbone and through the chassis upright is seized into the bush. With the nut undone, the bolt will turn only a small amount. I could ignore it and carry on, but now I know it's not right I want to sort it. The only thing can think of is to try and move the wishbone a bit to be able to hacksaw through the bolt. Then I can get the bush out of the wishbone with the press and put it together with a new bush and bolt. Both sides are like this. Any sage advice? Cheers Graham

Yes, I'll get a new pin as well. I think with the iron bellhousing there isn't a washer as it doesn't wear like the aluminium one does.

Thanks. Just in from the garage, removed the pin and was just about to re-look and found it on Burton power as you said! Problem solved!

Yes looks like it's called an anti-rattle tube and I was thinking that some plastic hose would do.

In my taking apart and putting back together project for my crossflow, I have a probable gearbox issue with the 4 speed escort box. I took the CRB and release arm off and there is (or was) a plastic sleeve on the post that the release arm pivots on. I have 2 of the bits of the sleeve, but no idea how to remedy the problem. It looks like I need a new sleeve and need to whack, I mean press out the pin, put a new sleeeve on and press it back in again. Anyone got any experience of this or suggestions please? It might function ok without the sleeve, but I can't take the risk! Cheers Graham

Thanks, seemingly it wasn't that the link was not a hyperlink but that the server had an error which it doesn't have now. I'll have a read - cheers!

Thanks Alan, do you mean search blatchat as that doesn't produce much of note? Also the link doesn't work sadly! CHeers Graham

In my new to me crossflow which I am fettling over the winter I'm wondering about the Ital axle. The car has done 9,500 miles since new and everything looks to be in good condition, but I don't know if everything was new when the car was built. I have some questions about the axle. Is there anything obvious to see/know about with regard to wear? Anything that wears quickly and what if anything I might check. Then are there any strengthening upgrades to apply? Also is there a go to specialist for axles? Cheers Graham

In my new to me crossflow which I am fettling over the winter I'm wondering about the Ital axle. The car has done 9,500 miles since new and everything looks to be in good condition, but I don't know if everything was new when the car was built. I have some questions about the axle. Is there anything obvious to see/know about with regard to wear? Anything that wears quickly and what if anything I might check. Then are there any strengthening upgrades to apply? Also is there a go to specialist for axles? Cheers Graham

With the same question, I have gone for a set of academy tyres for my new to me crossflow. Only driven once with them on before the winter fettling project started, but they felt great!

Yes, Im in communication with redline to work out exactly what I need. Happy days!

Now just to be picky I don't think there is stiction in the rubber bushes. Stiction means something moves after enough force is applied to unstick it. The rubber bushes just flex. That has the effect of slightly increasing the spring rate. So I don't think it's parasitic at all!