Gridgway

As I am refurbing the front suspension on my crossflow with new trunnions, I am replacing the wheel bearings. I've got it all apart, removed all the old greese inside the hub (there was a lot), generally cleaned and am ready for reassembly. Are there any gotchas? And I have some specific questions. Is there a regime for how much grease and where it goes? How do you put the felt seal and the metal plate it sits on in without ruining the felt seal? I assume it's more than hand pushed. I think I'm ok with the adjustment bit! Cheers Graham

Interestingly, doing some googling what's on there came from car builder solutions and it really doesn't fit. The valve is ok, but the cable location mechanism is all wrong! That's why I'd like the standard Caterham solution.

It's 1995, but doesn't have the pedal box in the picture in #3. I've got the 1988 guide, it's the 1992 one I've not got. I'll also check with Chris at Redline.

Thanks both. I have the 1996 guide, but not the 1992 guide. John, my email address is: graham at ridgworld dot come That picture is very helpful thanks Andrew. Regarding why it was bypassed, that is a question I have been investigating. I have had the heater out and apart - what a wonderful thing the heater matrix is - a work of art. There is no sign of a leak and it passes the Ridgway blowing in it test! However the current rather heath-robinson valve control doesn't cut off the flow of water so I suspect it was always hot. The other possibility is that there was some cooling problem with the motor and taking the heater out of circuit helped that in some way. I only drove it a couple of short journeys before I started my winter refurb project (it's still winter isn't it?). The motor is away having a full rebuild (good thing as we found a cracked crank) and upgrade. Back to the valve, my 1996 guide has reference to a valve kit HV01 which is what I think I need. On the caterham parts website it has this https://caterhamparts.co.uk/heater/2397-heater-control-cable-for-black-plastic-valve.html?search_query=heater+control+valve&results=78 although it is out of stock.

The live axle caterham that I am refurbing has a heater. When I got it, it was bypassed. There is a heater valve and control which is definitely after market as it were. Can anyone advise on how the flow of hot coolant through the heater is controlled as standard please? Pics would be very helpful. Thanks!

That's interesting. Just to clarify, it's the trunnions that tend to crack, not the wishbones?

Thanks ECR, sounds good!

And I took the uprights apart all ready. No big deal, but not sure I have any torque wrench settings for the stub axle into the upright and the stearing arm bolt. Does anyone know them please?

I'm there, the old ones weren't maintained. The car has done 9,000 miles from new, so they have a short life if not lubricated, but that's really rather easy to do! So yes I am going to just replace the trunnions (and the wheel bearings whilst it's all apart).

In an unexpected turn of events, Canley have siad that their kit is not suitable for the Caterham wishbones, it's designed for the Tirumph lower wishbone only. I think I need to think again. My race car fabricator can probably modify the lower wishbone to add a bearing carrier for a spherical bearing, then I can use the Canley upright/link. Or I can buy some new trunnions and move on!

Yes, that's the plan assuming they have stock

Updating this, I took the front uprights off and apart to ge the trunnions off. They were badly libricated with grease and seem to have wear and a lot of play. Even though I quite like to keep it all original, I think I'll upgrade to the spherical bush replacement kit.

Just on the offchance if anyone has a pair of these? I had a pair (was there a group-buy in historic times?) but got rid of my last 7 before fitting. I think I then sold them. Taken my rear lights off and had forgotten quite how heavy the rubber blocks were. Cheers Graham

Thanks, that's helpful. I'm feeling a bit annoyed with myself for coming back to it after having had the front suspension apart, but I need to check for lubrication and wear. I'm minded to go for the upgrade kit to sphericals, but I don't know if it just fits into the Caterham lower wishbone and top balljoint. Nor how hard it is to get the stub axle out to change over. I think people on here have done it though.

Thanks, I should have done this with the suspension apart (dampers went off to be serviced, did new bushes in the lower wishbone and refurnbed the calipers with enw seals!). The good news is that I know it comes apart easily.

Probably a well trodden question, but I have realised that in my live axle car refurb, I thini I need to pay more attention to the trunnions than I was going to. As it's new to me, although only having done 9,000 miles since new, I don't have any idea of the state of the trunnions, whether they are worn or not, oiled or greased or neither. Any recommendations on what to do? Are they easy to take apart, inspect, clean and put back together? Anything to look for? Cheers, Graham

Thanks for the diagram! Where did you run the 12v cable to the pump? In the transmission tunnel?

Thanks and noted re the clips! I've been recommended the Sytec pro fpr which doesn't have a built in filter. My system doesn't currently have a fuel filter. Is it recommended to have one?

Just a quick question regarding the replacement fuel pipe (Tazio). Are the ends of the pipe flared in any way for the rubber pipe to connect to at each end or are they just flat pipe as it were?

Thanks, looks like the way to go and I have had the pipe sizes confirmed by the engine builder. Will replace the plastic fuel pipe with copper/nickel. I'm unsure of the electrics (not being my strong suit), so will investigate what I have over the weekend and come back with more questions no doubt!

Yes the mechanical pump will be blanked off (or otherwise not used). The plastic pipe is connected to the tank at one end and the mechanical pump at the other end by rubber pipe and jubilee clips. Being plastic, the clips can't be done up very tight as they would be onto metal fittings. But the negative pressure to suck the petrol through will be a much lower magnitude than the positive pressure the facet will produce (6 ish psi). So I anticipate leakage - which I generally don't enjoy and when particularly when it's petrol!

Thanks both, very interesting. One thing that strikes me is that I have the plastic fuel pipe from the tank to the fuel pump which is ok as it's not under pressure. With a pump at the back to the regulator at the front, that is under pressure, so would need a different fuel pipe. Is that correct logic?

I'm not sure I'd be running pads to what seems quite a fine margin to me. 1.5mm pad to end up with at the end of the day is pretty marginal

My crossflow engine builder says I need to use a Facet red top plus a Sytec pro FPR to provide enough fuel for the upgraded motor. Does anyone have this or similar installation that I can use for inspiration please? Where they are placed, the plumbing and the wiring. Cheers Graham

Was just musing over a crossflow 7 at Sevens and Classics and saw this pic - looks like a distributor-less ignition. Any ideas on what it might be? https://sevensandclassics.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/IMG_7939-700x525.jpg