Gridgway

Thanks! I've taken a bit out, so I have followed the instructions. Over-filled by 2.5 pts! I'll not worry about it now!

Now I am really confused. I dipped the oil level from the breather hole and it's 5cm down from there. That puts the level at about the top of the reinforcing plate welded on the back. Or just over halof way up the diff. I had assumed with my 1.0l to the level hole and a further 1.8l I'd be very close to the top. The level is about 3cm higher than the bottom of the filler hole. Is there such a thing as being overfilled? What is detrimental with that?

I am filling from scratch as it's had a complete refurb and ATB fitted, so would expect it to take a lot. From the instructions in the article, if I drain down to the filler plug level, I should put 2pts or just over a litre back in through the breather.

Today I foubd some previous diff oil in the garage in addition to the 2l I bought. So I had 2.8l in total. It all went in. 1l to fill up to the filler hole, then another 1.8l in through the breather. Do we think that's enough even though I could get a little more in?

#7 wow, actually pretty much full then!

It's Ital

Thanks Jonathan, but the paper from Graham Sykes, says to overfill which I understand is required in the live axle. Just confirming what that specifically means. Cheers Graham

Hi all, just putting my live axle Caterham back together and need to fill the rear diff. It has been refurbed with a Quaife ATB fitted so it's going to be empty of oil. How much does it need? Do I fill to the filler level then put an amount more in from the breather hole, or just put a certain amount in from there? The Graham Sykes document says "overfill to the tune of 2-2.5 pints" I assume that's the total amount rather than the "extra", but I'm not sure! Cheers Graham

To change tack slightly (not that you can tack slightly), what is it about the 6 speed box that is "wrong" for touring? Back in the day, I happily did gazillions of road miles with a 6 speed box and never wanted to change it. Identifying what you want to change will help with finding the right solution.

Just to be picky.,do MCs actually get bled? I guess so.

Have you asked why the electrics were disturbed in the process?

#6 just curious as to why and what negative effect might something else have in 250 miles - esp just 1L?

Sorry to hijack a bit, but I have a Vecta which I dislike and would like to remove. Is it very complicated so to do?

Thanks all. The other plan we have is to change the gearbox nose to the 34mm (ish) one that will suite the bearing and carrier I have. We'#ve got one tracked down, so I'll see how that goes. I will use it on track Robert, but on road as well. I don't think the Helix HD clutch from Burton is particularly badly behaved, but we'll find out!

It's a bit complicated, so bear with... I have a 1600 crossflow with the Escort 4 speed (type 2?) box. It has a clutch cover with curly fingers and this CRB Release bearing Now the engine has been rebuilt to a 1700 and the engine builder has put a new Helix HD clutch in with straight fingers (Burton didn't have the Helix one with curly fingers in stock). This one Clutch This needs a different CRB with a curved face, this one CRB Burton have said to use that bearing with a bearing carrier, this one Carrier The trouble is that the ID of that carrier is 34mm (ish) and the nose is 30mm (as is the ID of the original bearing carrier), So that doesn;t work, and I am looking for options from the clever people of blatchat. The obvious option is to go for a curly finger Helix clutch - but they are very much out of stock at Burton and I am pretty sure that the clutch was part of the balancing, so I don't want to change it. I'm not sure that I could easily have a bearing carrier machined. Is there a 34mm diameter nose for the box perhaps? I know that the engine builder should sort it (and will do, he's a proper chap), but I'm looking for all ideas to throw in the mix. Sorry for the length of post. Cheers Graham edited to make links clickable and correct one of them

One thing not yet mentioned. Back in my 1600SS days, I really didn't like my brakes,felt wooly and lacking in bite. I discovered that there are brake pedals with two different ratios. I had the longer leverage one where the pedal went further for the same amount of brake rod movement if that makes sense? I change for the shorter levereage one which was harder to press and firmer, but gave a much more reassuring feel and "cured" my problem which was a bit the same. HTH

Thanks very much. I think I can mount it and use two straight unions with a very straight run out of the tank and a loop round to go forwards (if that makes sense)? Graham

back again, just got the motor back so need to get on and sort the fuel pump out! The facet instructions say that the unions need to be sealed when screwed into the pump body. Any recommendations for what to use? Also I was going to use a right angle one for the outlet that points towards the tunnel. Unfortunately, when done up to what feels like a sensible tightness, it is 180 degrees out. Half a turn less and it's def too loose. Is it a tapered fitting? Any suggestions? Other than use a straight fitting? Thanks Graham

Because they are designed #only# to be used with a HANS. They are 2" straps from what I can see. For just on-shoulder use they need to be 3" wide.

BTW are those the narrow harnesses that need a HANS?

Does look like it works well! I'll go and measure Mrs R's hips and see if she'll actually fit in a Tillet!

Thanks all, that's really helpful and lots of food for thought. I'm in many minds of which way to go. I would like a tillet or similar on the driver's side (and there's a pair for sale), but that won't be very helpful for Mrs R as she may not be comfortable in it with er child bearing hips! I am a short arse too so could probably get away with leaving the seat back in place. But a tillet one side and bench on the other is pretty yucky. Also taller drivers won't be able to get the tillet back far enough. I'll need to change the harnesses too I would think as I can't see how you'd get to the lap adjuster outside the seat (as it were). Maybe that's a non-problem Perhaps I should re-think the basic problem. With the bench seat in I am far too far away from the pedals and the wheel. The few times I've driven it (before starting my winter refurb project) I had a very fat cushion! A much simpler solution is just to pour a seat back insert in expanding foam and see how I get on.

Also note that I have found in the past that new calipers (or newly cleaned ones) can be much harder to bleed than old ones that have fluid remining in them. Probably obvious! Tricks are to tap the calipers with a hammer. Also to "block" the brakes. Push the pedal down (with the bleed nipples closed) and jam open with a bit of wood wedged against a seat, thus keeping the brakes under pressure. Leav all night and bleed again the next day. Might be a myth, but has got tricky air out for me in the past.

I am contemplating replacing the bench seat in my crossflow 7 with seats of some sort on runners. For this I think I should have the re-enforcement channels that should go under the floor where the runners will be. Can anyone advise where these go, what the likely dimensions are, what they are made of (aluminium I assume), how thick they are and how they are rivetted on please? A pic or two would be very helpful. Thanks Graham

Thanks both. I will try to use my press to get the felt bearing in. It'll keep it all square at least. For the grease I have got some high temp grease - Castrol 1503AD which says it is for wheel bearings.