Gridgway

I've got the new switch. Looks like the right size to fit in the gearbox. The connectors are 4.6mm. I think that the 3.9mm ones from #12 ought to fit? Maybe?

aha, for some reason (doh) I thought it would be factory fitted and thus didn't read the manual! I like the idea of the velcro, but sewn to the carpet. I'll talk to Mrs Ridg...

I'd forgotten about copydex! I think contact adhesive is easier as it doesn't need to be held in placve whilst it dries. The tunnel carpet needs to be removable to some degree when you need to get the engine out. You need to disconnect the two gearlevers in the live axle crossflow car. I assumed that the poppers allow the rear to be lifted to get to it. You need to lift the carpet off the gear lever in ther car and take the panel off to get access. That's why I was interested in whether anyone had direct experience to advise.

The carpet that came out was glued at the front with a significant amount of glue! It's taking a lot of brake cleaner to get it off. The problem with velcro is that it will almost certainly come unstuck from the carpet over time. In my experience anyway.

So I have a new tunnel cover carpet from CC to fit to my live axle car. Has anyone done this before? There are three poppers each side, but I assume the front area has to be glued in. Just looking for some fitting advice! Cheers Graham

#17 thanks John.

I've ordered the switch and was planning on measuring the terminals before buying bullet connectors.

Thanks, those look great, really appreciate the googling. I'll get them ordered!

Yes that's what I've found. Maybe single crimp on female bullet connectors are able to be bent safely.

There's not much space in there so if it's a bullet connector it'll have to somehow be a right angle. I'll order one and see what might fit.

We are!

Thanks Jonathan. I will try Redline, although I'm assuming the switch is NLA. I can make that Burton switch work, but I need to know what kind of connector it is. Cheers Graham

I have been undoing some mods that the PO did to my xflow to try and make the reversing lights work. I have worked out that the reversing light switch makes an intermittent connection (which is the actual fault). The connection at the end is loose. So I am looking for a replacement and am failing. I am unsure of the designation of my 4 speed box, I think it's a type E. Here is what the old switch looks like: I bought one from ebay which looked the same, but it's the wrong size, as described in the description of this listing... ebay one Burton has this one Burton one which is the right thread, but wrong connection. It says it can be used with the appropriate changes to the wiring. I've found the right one of the Burton website but it's NLA. On the basis I haven't yet managed to find the right size switch with the right connection, does anyone know what connection that is so I can try and make that work with a suitable earth wire? Or anyone know where to get the correct switch? Thanks and sorry for the long tale! Graham

Thanks, I'll give it a go.

I'd like to order a pair. What's the new way of measuring please?

#3 to change the lower WBs do you need to mod the chassis for the front pickup point for the lower WB? Also there is the "Triumph" trunnion conversion kit from Canley Classic that some have used. I looked but decided to keep the trunnions after talking to them. They didn't think the Caterham wishbones were right for their kit.

I am diagnostic genius!

Thanks

as an aside, not sure if anyone has spotted the oblique picture of the "perfect garage"? 1969 911 next to a 1995 7!

Thanks, it looks much better not being routed under the front of the a-frame. Is the p-clip attached to the reinforcing plate of the axle?

Thanks, that's very helpful. I'll reroute it and just make sure that it can't become entangled with the propshaft.

It's either configured wrongly or broken I reckon!

I thought from the description it did move, but only up to 1000 or so rpm. If there were some errors in the setup (set for lost spark when it's not, 16 cylinders rather than 4) you could get to reading an 8th of the actual revs maybe?

Is it configurable in any way? PS I hope it's not reading a tenth of the revs if you've seen it at 1,000 rpm

Making great progress on the reassembly of my 95 live axle car. Basically the big job remaining is to get the engine and box back in. Then a whole host of small jobs! All the rear suspension is back together, but I am unsure about the routing of the handbrake cable if anyone can help. The assembly guide clearly shows it going down between the rear chassis bar and the front a-frame bar. I assume that's right Like this... I took loads of pics, but sadly didn't get the routing from there. At the moment It comes up through the middle of the a-frame and goes between the a-frame and the diff... Then (the most difficult one to see) it goees over the front bar of the rear basket (is that the correct term?).