Gridgway

Golly £5.64 each bolt from Westfield!

Thanks Jonathan, I suppose I should have been able to search!! Looks like capheads are preferred, but Namrick don't have 5/16 UNF in 1 3/4 length. Will search further

I am very close to putting the xflow engine and box back into my LA 7 (a year after I took it out!). Unbolting the gearbox mount from the chassis crossmember when I took it out was a right pain. Getting to the top of the bolts was very hard istr. Is there a knack to this? I assume having the gearbox mount attached to the box is the only way I can see to do it (rather than bolting to the chassis first). And I didn't take a pic, but I assume the bolts go in from underneath to leave the least amount protruding under the car? Cheers Graham

I was (am) confused by the question as it's one thing taking out an xflow and putting in a twinc. But building a twinc from an existing xflow is very strange. For my xflow 7, I contemplated how to transform it to a twinc when I wanted more power, but only thought about it for about 15 secs before discarding the idea. I spent a bit longer looking for twincs to buy and then gave in and had my 1600 xflow reworked with more of everything to hopefully about 150bhp if I ever manage to get the motor back in and running!

Yellow does indeed look good!

To conclude here... I spoke to Phil at Arch, he was very helpful and quoted about £420 to make a new one. I also got contacted on PH by someone who has upgraded to a cage, so I have biught his old one. I'll get it blasted and re-powder coated and quite possibly colour matched to the car. Bare ally with yellow nose and green wings. Yellow or green for the bar I wonder?

#5, thanks Ian, tried to reply but got an error, so don't know if it sent. Will follow your advice!

#2 not really looking for a cage thanks, just a rollover bar. #3 this is what I am unsure about. The FIA bar from the later chassis I don't think will fit. Not sure of the correct designation of my chassis. It's the one that doesn't have adjustable pedals and the pedal box cover. The roll bar is pretty flimsey and only bolts in from above. Doesn't have the bolts that go into it from underneath with the flatter heads. Here's the one on the caterham parts site. Not sure if it's right or not (but no stock anyway). track day bar

Following a discussion on PH, what's the situation with roll bar options for a 1995 LA Caterham? There is a "track day" option on the Caterham Parts website, but out of stock. Mine does look super flimsy! Jusy wondered what the alternatives might be. ETA: I assume I'd need something more beefy for a club trackday? Cheers Graham

I thought that running a tap in is always going to remove more metal from the threads which is not a good thing if it can be avoided.

#2, could you email Volker on his email address listed please as he can't reply to you or message you on here! Cheers

I hope it's not against protocol, but I offered to post an advert for ex-member Volker on here so this is it. If it's not allowed, apologies and please remove. Thanks Graham If interested, please contact Volker on damdy-cash@gmx.com Link to pics here: Google Album Caterham/Lotus Literature and Parts Literature: Original Caterham Owner’s Manual: cover including full unused content, 1993 DeDion, English= 90,- Book: Legend of The Lotus Seven, by Dennis Ortenburger, English= 100,- Book: Lotus Seven und Caterham Collectors Guide VII, Heel, German= 35,- Book: Lotus Seven Super Profile, Graham Arnold, English= 35,- Book: Classic and Sportcar Lotus File, Seven - Elite - Elan - Europa, Mark Huges, English= 35,- Book: Suspension Brakes & Brakes High Performance Manual, Des Hammill, English= 10,- 25x Club Mag Lowflying and 4x Club Calendar from around 2011 to 2014= 40,- Parts: Key top, Aluminium, laser engraved Logo, key need to be shortened and glued in, for key w/o immobiliser etc.= 40,- Ford T9 gear lever, used= 15,- 3x Lotus Badges, Lotus Ind, 43x42mm= 50,-/ 2x World Champion, as new, 172x26mm= 45,-/piece 2x Caterham Steady Bracket Part Number 77847, 1x new= 15,-, 1x used= 10 https://caterhamparts.co.uk/headrests/2 ... -cage.html 2x Caterham Headrest (Cache), 1x new = 40,-, 1x used= 30,- 2x Caterham (Luke) 5/6 Point Harness extension, 2x new= 15,- /piece https://caterhamparts.co.uk/seatbelts-h ... rness.html 2x Beltenick Arm Restraints black, 2x new= 20,-/piece www.rennsportshop.com/de-fahrzeug-techn ... aints.html Raceline engine mount right side for Caterham/Duratec, new= 35,- www.raceline.co.uk/products/part_sectio ... ctionID=27 open for offers, all w/o shipping cost, stuff is located in Germany cheers Volker

It's a bit strange as it's definitely an alternator. The belt didn't seem too tight when I took it off. Anyway, I now have both and will see which works best!!

The new belt has arrived from ebay and is exactly the same size as the old one. All sorted, thanks.

Just had a look around. Available from ebay for £6.25 with free delivery. Sorry Burton, but I can't pay you £17 for the same thing I can get on ebay for £6.25.

Awesome. thanks Jonathan. I'd just got there myself. I looked at the packaging for the Gates belt and it said AVX10 x 800 La. So I thought that's 800mm. Then looked up the 6210 and its designation is 750. Looks like I need the dynamo belt for some reason. The problem with Burton Power is the shipping charge which is about £8 for the smallest item. That's about the same as the cost of the belt!

I bought a new alternator belt from Burton's for my refreshed xflow. Today I compared it with the one that I took off. The new one is about 2" longer overall which I assume won't really work. It's this one Alternator belt Does anyone have any wisdom about the correct one to fit. Burton have a similar dynamo belt with a different part number here? It doesn't give any info though on length. Thanks Graham

#11 I don't think you necc need to replace like with like or do you? In the pinto single seater world, we have one inertia and one pre-engaged. The pre-engaged one used to have an inertia one.

Ah I was mistakenly referring to the piston seal. Mind you aren't the sealing rings between the two halves often square section as well?

In my experience the kits include the piston seal. It's not an o ring as it's more a square section

#5, if one piston is seized you need to take care getting them out. If it needs a proper clean I'd not do it in situ nor without splitting.

To bring this to a close, I didn't get round to phoning MES and ordered the right angle connectors late one night! They arrived and are a fabulous fit. Job is done. Thanks all for the help!

I have happily refurbed my own calipers - even thinking I'm not an expert at it. There's a knack to getting the pistons out before you split the caliper. I ease them out each side a bit at a time with compressed air (taking care about the spraying brake fluid!). Unless the pistons are properly bad, the rust often polishes off. Reassemble with new seals (make sure they go in the right way round as they are not a square section) soaked in brake fluid. New dust covers. New bleed nipples if you feel like it. Make sure the caliper half mating surfaces are really clean and bolt back together. Done it now on many calipers and never had a problem.

If it is on the front circuit it kind of makes more sense to me. If it's there to give a fine adjustment to the conditions that's ok. If it's there to correct an inherent inbalance then it's poor engineering.

Yes essentially that's it. It just removes the rear and the front stays the same give or take. It's not obvious what the point is though as normally the car is going to be ok in dry driving. What you mostly want is to move the bias backwards in the wet. So really you need a front limiter rather than a rear one!