Gridgway

From my BDR build sheet it mentions the use of AE Hepolite pistons which I would be tempted to think are cast not forged, but that's just a guess. I can't find a reference to a Hepolite piston for a BD if I google though.

I don't think I see it really like that. The routes to getting more out of a BD engine pretty much have one thing in common - higher revs. You build it to carry on higher up the rev range and function there. More porting and potentially bigger valves - more gas in and out (esp at higher revs). Forged pistons - stronger at higher revs and can work at higher compression. Steel crank and rods - stronger to handle higher revs. More detailed balancing - higher revs. And so on. Lighter steel flywheel - higher revs. Now there are other side effects such as better throttle response with a lighter flywheel. But things like longevity, drivability, fuel efficiency (hehehe) are not normally high priorities of someone building a higher spec BD. Not sure how that helps your quest (mainly because I'm not sure what your quest is), but might be a helpful perspective. Graham PS what are you thinking of doing with a gas analyser? Mapping is normally only concerned with AFR and uses a lambda or wide band lambda for that.

Back to the top again, had some interest but no actual taker yet. I'd really like it to find a new home as I want to use the space and I have also got my BDR project. I would consider lower offers, so if anyone is looking for a fab xflow, but thinks it's just too much money, try me and see - you could be surprised.

I'm fairly sure that they are not long enough. But given what Bob has got is different from mine, my suggestion was going to be too get some appropriate steel strap and make pieces to lengthen those in there. I'd also test fit the new tank to make sure it fits and can be secured as there's no rear lateral support. Also the side supports don't look parallel, but that must be a camera issue

Well I have no data, just a strong suspicion!

Indeed, so we'll give it a miss thanks.

But most people have their harnesses done up quite loosely. I understand that to be more dangerous than inertia reel belts.

If you want, post a picture of the basket that the tank sits in (with the tank not in situ). Then we can see.

Right I'll try to explain this. Photos are tricky, but I have two. The basic principle is that there is an angle piece that sits on the top front edge of the tank. Then a long stud goes down each side from a hole in each end of the angle piece to a tab welded to the rectangle basket that the tank sits in. However in the old chassis set up for the steel tank with straps there isn't a suitable tab. There are though two tabs each side. I made up a thin plate to bolt to those two tabs each side. Then I used #two studs each side bolted to the front and rear of the plate I had made making a triangle each side. Happily the cross angle piece has two holes in each end which gave me the idea. Here are the pics. This one is looking up from underneath the tank to show the plate bolted to the tabs (inner holes) and the studs going up to top of the tank (outer holes). The rear of the tab is bent to make it perpendicular to the stud. Then this pic shows more of the side of the tank showing the two studs going up to the angle cross-piece. Hope it makes some sense!! The problem with just using the long bolt supplied is that on its own, the front tab is too far forward and pulls the tank forward and over (if that makes sense). The supplied bolt is not long enough to go to the rear tab. It might have worked with just a single longer stud to the rear tab, but I like over-engineering and one tab on its own felt a little on the flimsy side to me.

sounds well dodge to me! Try Autoglym metal polish - the result achieved versus the effort applied seems highly satisfactory to me. Better than Mothers' in my view. Any of that progressive sanding is huge effort on that amount of aluminium.

Ah, that makes it quite hard as I assume it's the footpedal that operates it? Like the below... I don't know if they are generic or specific to the machine.

Mrs Ridg is interested. Does it have instruction books?

It's a pretty simple mod, but certainly non-standard! I'll work out how to get some pics over the next day or so. Hopefully I can get the boot floor out with the roll bar in place as that will make the pics simplest, but otherwise I will go from underneath!

I have been exactly here with my 80s short cockpit resto. The old steel tank was rusted solid, so I got a new ally tank. The steel straps that go round the old tank do not fit the new one. It is intended to be fitted with the long studs holding an angle piece that goes along the top leading edge of the tank. The tabs to bolt to at the bracketry that goes around the bottom of the tank are in the wrong place to bolt to - as well as being rather thin and not strong enough. It needs chassis welding really, but I solved it by making plates to bolt to the tabs and using two long studs each side to hold the lateral retaining angle piece. All very hard to describe. Thought I had taken some decent pics, but can't find any. Whereabouts are you Bob? I'm in Epsom. If you could see it in person it would make sense. Or I could perhaps take pics or do a vid for you.

BTT

Updated price to test the water... £12,500 I may well put the price up again in a different marketplace, but I thought I would see if it had any appeal to this audience at a lower price!

Thanks both for the helpful comments. I guess April 1st 2025 isn't that far away!!

BTTT, no interest yet. Happy to reduce the price, anyone got a view on where the price would generate interest?

Presumably "collets"?

Have you put the plugs in the picture back in? If so, try new plugs and I suspect it'll start and run fine. The ignition timing should advance. If it doesn't something is wrong. The Lucas rally ignition is very unreliable, that could be a problem. But overall it looks like it is running rich and fouling the plugs. I am less convinced about the plates. I'm no expert on the tappets, but if they are very easy to turn with no locking capability that's a disaster just waiting to happen! If it were me, I'd get it to a rolling road session to get it sorted.

The rolling road people checked mine by rocking them by hand at idle and at a faster speed, say 3k rpm. If it changed the rpm then it was too loose.

I found and watched a video from some American dude. How can you produce 30 mins of almost nothing? Also his mechanical abilities were dire. Trying to get a track rod end off the track rod without trying to undo the locknut - the clue's in the name! And then trying to pull the boot over with long nosed pliers No prizes for what happens when you use pointy pliers on a rubber boot!! Anyway I have the Haynes manual with the info on taking apart and putting back together. When I get it out over the winter I will see if it's remediable or whether just to get a replacement (or upgrade to a quicker rack)!

£13,995 ono Spec · Long cockpit, bench seats · Live axle · Low mileage (9,300) believed genuine, but can’t be guaranteed · 1700 crossflow, 10.5:1 compression, 244 cams, brand new build (from 1600) approx. 140-155bhp (only carb setup been done on a rolling road, not run in enough to do a power run) · 4 speed Ford Gearbox · Refreshed Ital axle with new Quaife ATB diff · Standard dual circuit brakes · Cable clutch · Aluminium with British racing green flared wings and yellow nosecone. · Vecta immobiliser · 3 owners in total (inc me) · Lots of documents including copy of original purchase paperwork and many MoTs supporting the total mileage. Story The original owner bought the car from Classic Carriage (Caterham dealer of old). The first owner owned it for 26 years until 2021, but used it very sparingly. The next owner bought it, but fairly quickly decided that he really wanted a k-series 6 speed Caterham so sold it on Collecting Cars. I bought it from there (influenced by summer sun on holiday, a barbecue and some red wine) to have as a winter project to do some fettling and then to drive. It’s my 5th Caterham over the years. As often happens, my initial idea of fettling turned into a full on upgrade and refurbishing project which has taken 2 years to undertake. I essentially took a lot of the car apart, cleaned, refurbished, upgraded and put it back together. There is a very detailed record of the project with all the tasks undertaken and the items bought held in a “Trello board”. All the items on there are now marked complete! There are lots of photos to show many before and afters. Some of the highlights include: · Full clean and polish - top to bottom · Engine – full rebuild and upgrade to 1700 fast road spec with electronic ignition. Upgraded from mechanical fuel pump to Facet electric pump plus fuel pressure regulator. New solid fuel line from front to back. Engine work undertaken by race engine builder CKM · Carbs – full refurb undertaken by Weber Carb Reconditioning Services · Ital axle – refurbished by Hardy Engineering in Ashtead (renowned classic car transmission experts) plus new Quaife ATB fitted for the extra power from the motor. · New propshaft UJs · New CRB · Brakes – front calipers refurbished with new seals. New rear brake cylinders. New front pads (1144). Brake fluid thoroughly changed · New tyres (it had the original tyres fitted from the 90s!) · New hi-torque starter motor fitted and wiring updated to remove the starter solenoid · Front suspension refresh with new bearings, trunnions and track rod ends · Cured incessant oil leak from speedo drive seal on gearbox · All oil new in engine, box and diff (and trunnions!) · Dampers - checked by Sean Pickering and found to be working well · Chassis tubes – found to be in great condition and few areas of surface rust repainted with POR-15 · Nosecone, front and rear wings repainted as they looked a bit tired. · Boot floor sanded and revarnished plus new boot carpet · New tunnel carpet and floor mats · Track day roll over bar bought and powder coated (not fitted yet, but to go with sale) · Many other new parts fitted. What Next I’ve really enjoyed the project, but don’t get to drive the car – all my recreational driving is done on track with race cars (or driving to circuits in a motorhome). In fact, I enjoyed the project so much, I “accidentally” bought another recommissioning project which is halfway through. It’s time for someone else to enjoy – someone who actually has time to drive such a wonderful car. The car is in super condition. There are a few imperfections. For example, the bonnet went low flying! It’s all ok but has a little bit of gravel rash. I could get a new one, but I quite like the patina. But overall, it’s astonishingly good. I have spent a silly amount of money getting the car in such fine fettle but have thoroughly enjoyed the project.

ah yes, good idea - ebay here we come!

It's the 6th digit of the VIN being K or C for cars built before July 1998