Gridgway

Thanks Alan, the heritage bodies do look good. Can I ask what ECU you went with and what ignition system please? Did you make your own loom or buy a pre made one?

That Bosch 200 is going to need some fat wires at 17-20A! Mind you my wallet has run into a corner whimpering. I think it's going to be a very expensive project, budgetary estimate £4k

I think I have answered my own question by talking to Caterham Parts. The simplest thing is actually to have a return fitting welded in if I want to go that route.

Thanks all. Can someone tell me about the difference in fuel tanks? I have literally just bought a new S3 carb tank to replace the hugely rusty old steel thing. It's still in the box. The question is, can I use an injection tank for carbs? If so I can return it and swap for an injection one. Then run on carbs and upgrade to TBs when I get there.

As I am fitting a new tank with a new fuel level sender, I thought it would be good to get it accurate. Are you producing any more kits please Andrew? Thanks!

I'm getting way ahead of myself, but I have been musing over converting my BDR from Dellortos to ITBs. I did a quick search on the site to try and find anything that might relate to the topic but failed. I also had a quick look at the Jenvery website and that adds up to a lot of money very quickly. Then I thought, what about bike throttle bodies and a megasquirt? Anyone got pointers to any reference materials, or have done it or seen it done? Cheers Graham

Just to update here, with a bit more priming, the pump managed to pump WD40 hurrah. I'll install it next and see if it can pump fuel and get to the the right pressure.

Interestingly my new to be BDR project car has Dellortos so I am interested in the topic. I am planning on supplying them with fuel over the weekend for the first time since 2008 when the car was last used. I'm expecting a leak or two! I've refurbed the fuel supply system, so at least that should be ok!

Is there such a thing as low end drive on a BDG? Let alone smoother!

It's 4 into 1 although not at home to check the dimensions, but think it's 2"

I lost OP from my BDG earlier on in the year and I didn't get to the off switch in time But I'd be pretty sure this is the sender - classic symptoms. The vibration does it.

Thanks both. I am slowly coming round to the idea that a new silencer will be needed as I can't see how to do much on the induction side unless an airbox helps. Yes it has been set up on a rolling road with the carbs balanced and jetted. It's a good job I'm not keeping a log of costs on this one. Looking at the Raceco site, I hope the stainless ones are cheaper than the £750 for the titanium ones!

With the ages concerned it's probably ok, but ISTR they changed from fine to coarse pitch or the other way around, so if you do try a spare, double check the thread pitch is the same. Very easy to see the difference.

I have finally got my refurbed crossflow car running properly. It's gone from 1600-1700 with Kent 244 cams and quite a high compression ratio (higher than I was expecting, but that's a different story). As I have posted in other tech questions threads, I've had to faff with getting the carbs set up properly and then the new Pertronix electronic ignition was all over the shop (aka broken). But it's running now (and even quite fast while still running in). Anyway, now to the question, it is really rather loud - much much louder than it was as a wheezy 1600. Sounds equally to be the intakes as the exhaust. I hadn't anticipated a "make it quieter" phase to the project, but are there any experiences out there with regard to this spec of crossflow and noise? Thanks Graham PS this is not my BDR project - yes I know, how many projects does a sane person need at any one time?

When it's done, I'll do a summary of my diagnostic steps should anyone else have the Luca Rally or other HEI based ignition.

So an update from H&H. The module in the dizzy is dead, £30 for a new one, simple as that. I should have had the courage of my diagnostic convictions as that's what I concluded. But at least I have the problem, got a solution and know that the AB14 and the coil are ok. The original HEI module plus the cheap ebay one I bought both work ok. Just need a new fuel tank to put in and I'll be ready for engine start! Graham

#6 that has to worth a call to them though. Also there is a second broken one that they might also be able to fix. Also what about talking to Sigma people like Premier Power for other options?

Sorry that painful time, really horrible. The sure fire solution must be an aftermarket ECU - not particualry a cheap option. What ECU and motor is it?

#8 good point John, hadn't really thought of the comparative costs, assumed they would be similar. Also I don't like changing guages in the dash, very fiddly!

I'm really not getting this. Bumpy B road causes speedo wires to break and short - nah!

But you'd only do such a thing if there's a material risk of a problem whcih is what I don't understand how that comes about. Not saying they're wrong (although over the years there have been many received-wisdom things that are no more than wive's tales), just curious as to how the problem actually comes about.

Or just the remote mounting kit which has worked well for me in the past.

#34, I'm not bothered about why the OP wants to disconnect, but I am curious about the actual risk involved with the speedo wiring getting caught somehow. It feels a super marginal problem to me unless it somehow dangles down in some way. Or have I got it wrong?

ANd last post on my own thread for the day... people seem to choose the cylinder pumps over the square solid state ones. I wonder why that is.

And in fact, the main components are available as spares on the glencoe website. The problem is without knowing what the issue is, I could get replacement parts and still be no better off. It might be that the electro magnetic bit isn't working so the shuttle doesn't move backwards are forwards enough. Hmm