Gridgway
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Everything posted by Gridgway
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On the fuel feed side, does the pump change noise as the float chambers get full and back-pressure builds? I assume it's the square one and assume that it makes a noise! I have the round one which changes tone when the pressure is built up. The Lucas Rally ignition (AB14) is notorious for being unreliable. Mine was broken, but if yours runs on the eazistart, it sounds like it's ok. Even if the fuel pump stops when the engine is cranked, there is plenty of fuel to start it from full float chambers. I would be doing a lot of pumping of the pedal before and during cranking. If you can't flood it, then there's a fuelling problem in the carbs.
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summary seems to be that the engine runs on easy start, but not on the fuel that should be delivered by the carbs. That would seem to eliminate the spark being a problem. It's sparking and sparking at the right times. How many throttle pumps do you give before cranking? Do you pump whilst cranking? Everything still points to a carb problem and fuel not getting through. I see there is a choke mechanism on the carbs - have you used that on cranking?
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That is definitely a good problem to avoid Andrew! -
I think I may well end up being the dull keep it simple person in this thread. The torque is extremely unlikely to be related specifically to the (audio) properties of the device. So I'd be doing it QT for a 1/4" bolt with a spanner and that would almost certainly do the trick! Graham Just in case - tightness goes: QT means quite tight T means tight FT means very tight.
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This needs a simple solution. Just a spacer as Andrew suggested. It probably works just fine without, but I would make one.
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If you did, I'd not talk to you again! Filler has as much useful application in this as using an 11mm spanner on a 7/8 nut!!!
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Now we're not going to have any of that sort of talk on here. An 11mm will most certainly not do! A 7/6 nut needs a 7/16 spanner! 🤣
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that's not a shadow! Isn't it just where the plate ends? Assuming you mean what's inside the red rectangle .
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I think I've finally lost the plot. BD motors run very happily on dizzy ignition with a mechanical advance curve. My BDG produces 293 bhp very simply. So adding knock sensors, tuning with gas analysers is just adding unnecessary complication that is (in my view) extremely unlikely to produce a nice reliable smooth running result. Good luck with it, but please try to get a simple solution running!
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What's one of those? And why?
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It's pretty easy to do. I would indeed set it to TDC and check that the rotor arm points to where #1 is on the cap. Pull out the dizzy. Watch the spindle move and get it back in in the right place. If it nend up on the wrong place that is visually very easy to spot.
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This must the ignition advance version of the Schrödinger's cat thought experiment where observation changes the outcome! Rather bizarrely, the distributors on mine and Jen's FF2000s (pintos) had both massively moved overnight at Silverstone one race weekend between Friday test and saturday quali first thing. Still a mystery. They ran fine all day, then the timing was out overnight. We can only think that someone moved them, but that's nonsense as who on earth would do that? Sorry, not a very helpful comment from me. Other than, once done up dizzys don't move, so the problem must be in the internals. Or a problem of measurement. If it was me, I'd swap another dizzy in (assuming I had one I could swap out or borrow or had a spare) to try and narrow it down.
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So purely mechanical then. Excellent. Another basic question. How are you checking the timing?
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I may have missed this, but what controls the advance? Is it just mechanical in the dizzy? You've not got an ab14 Lucas module there as well?
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There's something not right going on. My BDR starts easy peasy. Doing the dizzy up so it doesn't move is similarly easy. Timing just doesn't move in the normal world! Is there something else going on with fuel or sparks?
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And now sold to a very nice man!
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I can't imagine not having compressed air and tools in my garage if you have space and resources!
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It's got to be a carb problem. The old fuel crud has got in there. I know you've said you don't like the idea, but you can isolate the problem by spraying easy start or brake cleaner into the intakes. If the engine runs and stops it's a carb problem. If it doesn't run then it's a spark or timing problem. No need to be precious about it. When we start the BDG (overblown cross flow) in my F2 race car, we take a water bottle, make a hole in the lid and fill it with petrol to have a big squirt down each throttle body to get it going!
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Back to the top, updated price £11,000
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Those are very short trumpets!
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Needs a good inspection to check for any damage apart from the sheared bolt. Left to my own devices, I'd want to get the DD tube out to get the remains of the bolt out and to check it was all ok.
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on the engine starting problem, happy to help there!
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On the topic of senders, mine was all rusted up and had to be replaced. All that's available now are the generic ones with the float arm in two bits that you have to cut to length, solder together and bend accordingly. As there is a baffle in the tank the float arm can't be very long. It's extremely hard to know how to get the right length and shape as you can's see it in the tank (obviously). I made a full scale mockup of that section of the tank using foamboard so I could sort it out. Seems to work ok. You'd need to check that the generic sender available is compatible with your gauge. I still have the mockup in the shed if pics of it are any use. Or if I could get it to you you could use it.
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BDR How do I know what my max rpm is? Ans: Dyno says 7,400
Gridgway replied to anthony1956's topic in TechTalk
There are a few online. Did Silverstone Classic in 2022 in the March... Race 1 Look away at the end if you are of a sensitve nature! Race 2 starting at the back after race 1! -
BDR How do I know what my max rpm is? Ans: Dyno says 7,400
Gridgway replied to anthony1956's topic in TechTalk
Yes my assertion is that the likely reason for an engine builder to do those things is to get a higher power engine which almost always (if not always) involves higher RPM. I run my BDG up to 9,500 (in racing) although I am told they used to use more rpm back in the day.
