Gridgway

The rolling road people checked mine by rocking them by hand at idle and at a faster speed, say 3k rpm. If it changed the rpm then it was too loose.

I found and watched a video from some American dude. How can you produce 30 mins of almost nothing? Also his mechanical abilities were dire. Trying to get a track rod end off the track rod without trying to undo the locknut - the clue's in the name! And then trying to pull the boot over with long nosed pliers No prizes for what happens when you use pointy pliers on a rubber boot!! Anyway I have the Haynes manual with the info on taking apart and putting back together. When I get it out over the winter I will see if it's remediable or whether just to get a replacement (or upgrade to a quicker rack)!

£13,995 ono Spec · Long cockpit, bench seats · Live axle · Low mileage (9,300) believed genuine, but can’t be guaranteed · 1700 crossflow, 10.5:1 compression, 244 cams, brand new build (from 1600) approx. 140-155bhp (only carb setup been done on a rolling road, not run in enough to do a power run) · 4 speed Ford Gearbox · Refreshed Ital axle with new Quaife ATB diff · Standard dual circuit brakes · Cable clutch · Aluminium with British racing green flared wings and yellow nosecone. · Vecta immobiliser · 3 owners in total (inc me) · Lots of documents including copy of original purchase paperwork and many MoTs supporting the total mileage. Story The original owner bought the car from Classic Carriage (Caterham dealer of old). The first owner owned it for 26 years until 2021, but used it very sparingly. The next owner bought it, but fairly quickly decided that he really wanted a k-series 6 speed Caterham so sold it on Collecting Cars. I bought it from there (influenced by summer sun on holiday, a barbecue and some red wine) to have as a winter project to do some fettling and then to drive. It’s my 5th Caterham over the years. As often happens, my initial idea of fettling turned into a full on upgrade and refurbishing project which has taken 2 years to undertake. I essentially took a lot of the car apart, cleaned, refurbished, upgraded and put it back together. There is a very detailed record of the project with all the tasks undertaken and the items bought held in a “Trello board”. All the items on there are now marked complete! There are lots of photos to show many before and afters. Some of the highlights include: · Full clean and polish - top to bottom · Engine – full rebuild and upgrade to 1700 fast road spec with electronic ignition. Upgraded from mechanical fuel pump to Facet electric pump plus fuel pressure regulator. New solid fuel line from front to back. Engine work undertaken by race engine builder CKM · Carbs – full refurb undertaken by Weber Carb Reconditioning Services · Ital axle – refurbished by Hardy Engineering in Ashtead (renowned classic car transmission experts) plus new Quaife ATB fitted for the extra power from the motor. · New propshaft UJs · New CRB · Brakes – front calipers refurbished with new seals. New rear brake cylinders. New front pads (1144). Brake fluid thoroughly changed · New tyres (it had the original tyres fitted from the 90s!) · New hi-torque starter motor fitted and wiring updated to remove the starter solenoid · Front suspension refresh with new bearings, trunnions and track rod ends · Cured incessant oil leak from speedo drive seal on gearbox · All oil new in engine, box and diff (and trunnions!) · Dampers - checked by Sean Pickering and found to be working well · Chassis tubes – found to be in great condition and few areas of surface rust repainted with POR-15 · Nosecone, front and rear wings repainted as they looked a bit tired. · Boot floor sanded and revarnished plus new boot carpet · New tunnel carpet and floor mats · Track day roll over bar bought and powder coated (not fitted yet, but to go with sale) · Many other new parts fitted. What Next I’ve really enjoyed the project, but don’t get to drive the car – all my recreational driving is done on track with race cars (or driving to circuits in a motorhome). In fact, I enjoyed the project so much, I “accidentally” bought another recommissioning project which is halfway through. It’s time for someone else to enjoy – someone who actually has time to drive such a wonderful car. The car is in super condition. There are a few imperfections. For example, the bonnet went low flying! It’s all ok but has a little bit of gravel rash. I could get a new one, but I quite like the patina. But overall, it’s astonishingly good. I have spent a silly amount of money getting the car in such fine fettle but have thoroughly enjoyed the project.

ah yes, good idea - ebay here we come!

It's the 6th digit of the VIN being K or C for cars built before July 1998

So I wonder if it has any servicable parts - bushes that might be worn that I can change? It'll have to come out over the winter so I can see if it comes apart easily then.

Yes there are stops to reduce the lock.

When I had my 80s short cockpit LA car MOT'd I was warned about play in the rack on the LHS. The tester suggested where the track rod attaches. I've been checking it out and the play is not lateral play but that the inner tube is loose in the outer tube of the rack. Not sure of the source of the rack. I have posted a picture of the inner and outer below. Does anyone know whether this is serviceable and also what the rack came from originally. Thanks!

But that doesn't tell the whole story. Home built vehicles built before a certain date (was that when IVA came in) are visible smoke only which applies to both my 80's and 90's Caterhams

Ryan Hooker is very good and does a lot of work with Caterham racers.

If you ask Canley about their trunnionless kit they strongly recommend against using it in a caterham. It's to do with the lower wishbone fitting not being suitable.

Thanks Rob, I do have the front link kit fitted. Spax dampers condition unknown. Spring rate unknown at the moment. Was used for hillclimbs and has fairly ferocious LSD. Quite a lot to bring together to get the ideal road setup! Graham

Late to the topic but that oil looks exactly as I'd expect. Oil doesn't stay clean looking for any length of time at all. I've run many rebuilt race engines and it's always black at first change.

I'm contemplating what my winter project is going to be on the BDR as a recap I have recommissioned it after having not run since 2008. It's a short cockpit LA BDR. But it needs stuff doing. The synchros are shot so the box will come out. I'm thinking about the shocks and springs. It's very stiff at the rear and bounces around quite a lot. Has anyone any advice on how to proceed? I want a really compliant fun road car. I'm happy to replace shocks and springs to get something that works really well. Thanks!

Good result. Presumably the corrosion problem was with the 12v supply?