Chelspeed

Caterham don't make them, I think they're originally VDO parts. But Caterham do get them modified to suit the 5 speed box by brazing on the washer that the circlip fits against. So yes I think this means you can only get them from Caterham. If the angle drive is off the car and in your hand then surely you can stick a screwdriver in the square hole on the gearbox end and turn it and see the square hole in the cable end turning. If it doesn't then it's definetely that which is broke.

Mine not a Pace system but that's the size hoses I use. -12 on the low pressure side, scavenge pump to tank and tank to pressure pump suction and -10 on the pressurised side, pressure pump to remote filter and remote filter to engine.

> Best place to buy said switch Demon Tweeks do them, no doubt the usual suspects like Grand Prix racewear, Merlin Motorsport, Rally Design also do them. > How do I wire it Check out the 7FAQ under the red starter switch section. You need to replace 15 to 30 with the aircraft switch. > Will I need to remove the lock all together - I still have the heads on the bolts If you have a steering lock then yes you must remove it or it will lock and you will crash. If you have a quick release removeable steering wheel then you don't have a steering lock in which case you could leave it on. But why would you want to? If you change your mind it's easy to refit. Edited by - Chelspeed on 4 May 2005 12:19:57

With the back wheels in the air turn the wheel(s) or start the engine and put it in gear (need good secure stands!) and see if the square section of cable sticking out of the gearbox turns. If it doesn't then it's either the plastic gear or the drive gear. My experience of this problem is that the fault is usually the metal drive gear on the gearbox output shaft is a loose fit and moves along the shaft until it comes out of mesh with the plastic gear. As said before gearbox out job to fix. So don't bother, get a pushbike speedo to stay legal until the box is next out anyway. Don't spend £50 on a new gearbox angle drive until you know it isn't the above.

If you're changing it rather than just undoing it and refitting it later then the major worry of damaging the rubber boot is gone so it's easier. There are many special tools for breaking this taper joint, the simplest being a tapered fork which you hammer into the gap, downside is they invariably damage the rubber boot, but you don't care about this. Another hint is that if you are persuading the taper to split by hitting the exposed thread keep the nyloc nut on the end, undo the nut a couple of turns but don't take it right off. This way you hit the nut and don't damage threads (but again this doesn't matter as you'll be binning them after). On a general note of caution, the steering arm on the upright is not that substantial, I'd be wary of taking a 2lb hammer to it willy nilly and expecting it to still steer in the same way after. By all means tap it with a hammer but think about the direction of the tap, in line with the arm rather than to the sides.

Or just measure it. Put a board on the spring and stand on it. Measure the compressed spring length and then calculate the spring rate (in lb/in) as: (your (plus board) weight in lb's) / (original spring length - compressed spring length). Sounds easier than it is actually, you need to hold onto something to steady yourself and get someone else to measure the compression while you teeter about, when you fall off the spring goes bouncing off across the garage. Actually quite amusing to do, hours of fun for all the family

Momo wheels come in two flavours, one has a round cross section rim the other is "anatomical" ie is shaped to maximise grip. If you think the outside is too flat then perhaps that was the anatomical? The round section may well suit you better. Racetech wheels are very flimsy, if you grasp the top of the wheel in the middle it will wobble in and out with hardly any force, very offputting! Motolita is too "classic" looking for me but tastes vary obviously. I'd go for Momo suede anatomical every time.

Normal size pop rivet with a washer behind the panel over the pop rivet before you rivet it? The theory being the rivet will pull up tight behind the bigger hole against the back of the press stud.

Glad you've fixed it and no doubt it'll be useful. But for future MOT's don't worry, the reversing light is not checked, doesn't need to be fitted, doesn't need to work even if it's fitted. All the details in the MOT manual. Edited by - Chelspeed on 2 May 2005 00:47:33

The old metal number plates were aluminium (or aluminum as Jaws was an American film...) so fridge magnets may struggle. LCD number plates are definetly the way forward, so much more hi tech than the old James Bond revolving one. Sure it won't be long.....

If they're still 55W then they won't produce any more heat than a normal 55W bulb. The problem might come if you fitted actual 120W bulbs.

There are usually ignition amplifiers within the MBE box, two off, ie one for each coil, for a 4 cylinder wasted spark application. Sounds to me like one of these has gone tits up. I say they're usually within the box as I only have experience of 912, 941, 967 and 970 MBE boxes. If they're not part of the ECU then they'll be external within the loom, usually small flat black plastic boxes about 2 inch square on a metal heatsink. If they are external then still likely to be one of these and much easier to change. If they are internal then when you take the lid off there are a number of large power transistors on a heat sink, I presume these are they. I'd give MBE a ring and see if they can repair it.

Tell them it's not a seat it's padding. The seat is the floor and back panel and the foam is just padding to help you fit. The padding on a tin top seat is not secure, it's only the metal frame of the seat that is bolted to the floor. If that is OK then so is a "foam seat" would be my argument. But I've been thro at least 5 MOT's with a foam seat without any problem so you're probably worrying unduly.

> hang on basically what you are saying is that raising the engine lowers the CoG Of course he isn't give the man some credit! He's saying there's a minimum ground clearance under the sump that you can get away with on the road. If you raise the engine in the chassis you can lower the whole car to get back to the same minimum ground clearance. As the rest of the car is heavier than the engine this will have the effect of lowering the CofG.

Is it wide track? If so did you specify wide track shocks? And 160mm sounds very high. But I'm more used to race and sprint cars, long time since I measured a road car.