Geoff Brown

That is what I understand about ESSO 99. Having no ESSO stations locally & because of the supermarket fuel change to E10 I now use SHELL V Power 99 E5 . After the switch the car starts from cold better & has a more stable tick over when hot. There is no perceivable performance change. So what does that say about supermarket E5 ?

I used 3.5 25Kg bags of sand on the drivers seat (squab removed) when adjusting my rake/ride height. Nothing in the pax seat as I rarely take any. SWMBO confessed that she now knows my true worth !!

This may help as the detail was added by myself for those with <2003 front axles.

By minimal maintenance do you mean stripping, cleaning & re greasing every four years IAW Caterham's recommendation ? On the old style stepped stub axles failure to do so often ends in a seized bearing causing the axle to fail at the weakest point. Usually caused by no grease having exited via the felt seal.

I use COMMA 5w/50 Motorsport oil average of £35 for 5L on line. So one requires 2x5L for an oil change of six litres. So in a way still expensive though the next oil change requires the purchase of only 1x5L.

I don't believe there is any alternative supplier for the Caterham stub axle upgrade kit. Though I am sure someone will be along to correct me ! Upgraded my previous 2000 K Series & never looked back. IMO the upgrade is worth the money for the following reasons: no more asymmetric bearings which if not properly maintained cause undue stress on the stepped axle. no more 'weak' stepped axle no more felt seals which have chocolate fire guard status in preventing grease egress. no more having to check & adjust the bearing play at irregular intervals - the upgrade can go between the four year service cycle without a problem.

Previously owned a 'tweaked' 1.6K Supersport @ 155bhp - Jenveys, new Emerald 2 channel ECU, verniers. I knew emissions after upgrade could effect the next MoT problem so took lap top to tweak the engine for a pass. Which surprisingly the inspector did not mind. Got it to a pass but unfortunately during the subsequent trials & tribulations of doing so the emissions testing machines exhaust sensor tip burnt out ! Subsequent tests at the same garage were, shall I say, more relaxed. That garage has now closed down but have found another 'friendly' garage & inspector.

Probably only two causes: rear UJ loosening up or CWP out of adjustment. Either could be catastrophic if failing at speed ! But stating those issues, I know someone who while returning through France to UK experienced a rattle from the same area that increased during the journey. Made it back to Blighty but when he looked underneath the rear UJ was only just holding together ! So the UJs are pretty tough.........

After 10 years & 25,000 miles the oil from my six speed was a very dull green/brown but not pitch black !

Have used the MANN W77 for 12 years now, changed annually so will keep with this type. Interesting reveal though !

Cannot beat a good bit of 6061 T6. Good stress & fatigue resilience. Came across it a lot during my aviation career both in sheet & billet form. The only caveat like all aluminium alloy, it must be protected correctly to avoid corrosion/oxidisation. With the CSR this will mean good inspection at least annually due to the mounts being susceptible to 'road rash'. Copper grease during assembly & I would suggest after assembly the mounts are carefully coated in Waxoyl or similar.

Confess I did experiment with cold TPs many years ago but the car did not feel or handle correctly so incrementally dropped pressures from 21psi until the car felt right. Guess what, got back to 18psi ! I still stand by 23psi being potentially too high & making the car feel or handle weirdly. On 18psi the CR500 wear was relatively equal across the tread as is the ZZS at the moment. So IF 23psi is the new recommended pressure I feel that my tyres would have a central wear band.

When did the TP for 13" wheels on ZZS/R increase to 23psi ? Quote, 'Taken from the owner's hand book'. Have always assumed & run at 18psi all round. Must be like driving on ice !

Loctite 243 (Red) is medium strength so with that & applying the correct torque loading the bolt should stay in place. I think that 270 may be over kill as one never knows when that pulley may have to be removed..........

Yes.