Garth

Shaun - I responded to your over extension comments, but must have failed to hit the post button! The clutch pedal was very stiff - almost brake like - from the very top of the travel. It was also a like for like replacement so I am assuming the travel should be much the same as before - unless I am missing something? Hi Chris - my braided hose has a threaded connection into the slave and banjo onto master - so no chance of popping off! I think there is a clutch stop on my car Alan - will check tomorrow when we get it out! Hopefully all will be revealed, but still a bit of a mystery to me!

Cheers Jonathan

Alan and Graeme very kindly helped me put together my engine and gearbox yesterday - refurbished type 9 box on Sigma engine with new clutch, pressure plate and slave cylinder. All was going well (more or less!!) until we finished bleeding the clutch. The clutch pedal was very stiff and in pushing it very hard (probably should have realised something was wrong) there was a little pop as something burst! Fluid poured out onto the bulkhead below the master cylinder and also out of the bell housing. Alan and I scratched our heads for a while (after cleaning up as much of the fluid as we could) and then closed the garage door in disgust and abandoned the car! We cannot think what might have happened? Either a faulty slave cylinder - or pressure plate somehow stuck so slave cylinder could not budge it? Or is there something else we should have done? Clutch and pressure plate replaced by a very reputable Caterham man! Guess it is a new master cylinder too? Where is the best place to get one? Planning to get it back out tomorrow morning to inspect. Any thoughts most welcome..... Thanks Garth

Cheers rj

It is a 2010 Sigma - Banjo fixing off master cylinder and angled seat into clutch release housing. Ford type 9 box

Am remaking all the joints on the clutch realease hydraulics - not many joints! Is it advisable to use a locktite equivalent on the threads - think I used some blue stuff when I built it originally, but cannot remember that far back! Thanks

Tried some of the surfix on a few bits today and works a treat! Engine bay tomorrow if the rain holds off for a while?

May be a bit optimistic!! Done half the exhaust!

Thanks - will give them a try..

Have ordered some Bilthamber surfex HD! Have meths and white spirit and WD40! Which Dinitrol product did you use Ian?

Have my engine out and want to give the engine bay a good clean - plenty of stuff on the net - but would be grateful for some blatchat experience! Do not want to go too mad, but keen to get ride of the grime, oil etc. before touching up any rust etc. In anticipation.... Garth

Giving my exhaust a proper clean for the first time in 8 years! Want to replace the exhaust collector springs - standard Sigma setup Demon Tweeks do one for £1 and they are £5.22 on the Caterham website - they look the same (different colour!). Does anyone know if they are the same or are there any other better alternatives out there? Thanks Garth

Agree scissors lift not too good for a 7! I cannot really comment on the 4 post ramp style as not worked on my car on one. I have recently installed a twin post and am happy with it so far! Spent too much time looking for second hand ones lots of 3 phase and generally expensive. Then looked at a range of new versions - all made in China as far as I can tell. Went for a Twin Busch in the end (Automotech was a close competitor, but just slightly too tall). Twin Busch had a good installation video and detailed dimension on line which gave me confidence. I also feel that given the occasional use with a light car the 'quality' does not need to be at the level required for a garage where the lift would be in regular use daily? Twin posts do need good headroom and also require more width than a 4 post. Make sure you reinforce the slab and that you have about 125mm thickness where the posts are going to be. Drop me a line if you have any specific questions. Garth

Premier Power just changed mine - seems like there is lots of different advice out there depending on how you use the car. Plenty track days etc then every two years! My belt was about 6 years old with about 20k miles use - with about 3 strenuous events a year. I should probably have done it sooner! The belt which came out looked absolutely fine (like new!), but Stuart at Premier said they can just go suddenly. I will probably go for 4 to 5 year intervals. Tensioner and water pump changed at the same time - both looked fine but everyone I have spoken to says it is a good idea to change them with the belt!

If you go the Starcom route I have one in my car which I am planning to remove as I do not use it - digital version with two bluetooth modues and two headsets etc. Was installed by Cartronics about 5 years ago and I used it for one trip - since then have tended to be in the car on my own! Happy to see the Starcom go for about £100 - where are you based?

If you are thinking about trying to listen to your satnav using bluetooth then I know the only Garmin that works is the Zumo - other Garmin models with bluetooth will not pair with a bluetooth headset - I could never establish why the bluetooth headsets would not work with the standard bluetooth satnav when they will pair with a phone etc. and Garmin were singularly unhelpful in explaining why too! I ended up buying a Zumo and it works very well with my bluetooth headset. Do not know about TomToms. Sena also do a push to talk module which pairs with a bluetooth headset which should allow one to use a 'walkie talkie' through the same headset being used for the satnav/music/phone etc! I have bought one but not tried to set it up yet!! Garth

Fitted mine a few years ago and they were a straight swap - cannot remember if I had to alter the connections, but certainly no relay changes (on a 2010 Sigma Roadsport)

Hi Jonny - sent you personal mail

Alan -is it the standard Caterham one? If so I think I have the one which was on my car for a couple of years - you would be welcome to it! Garth

Thanks for the heads up Andy - am getting Premier Power to do the work and am replacing the waterpump and tensioner on their advice! hope there are not too many other things that need replacing!

Thanks chaps - will get it changed while engine out.

Am not going to attempt to do it myself, engine had upgrades! I have the engine out at the moment and interested to know if it will be easier for someone to do now?

Thanks Stan - mine is about 8 years old with about 25k on the clock so probably sensible to get it done! Do you know if it is easier to do with the engine out?

I will be asking BGH what t do when I pick up my repaired box

Can anyone tell me at what interval age/mileage they should be replaced?