David Mirylees

Thanks for the input everyone - consensus appears to be pump in the tank area with a regulator in the engine compartment.

I'll be moving mine when I do my gearbox change in the next couple of months.

OK, so I am a newbie with a 7 - only had one for 43+ years and still learning...........

I notice that many later cars have their fuel pumps mounted adjacent to the fuel tank but I have always mounted my electric pump in the engine bay.

What is the thinking behind the location of the pump and what is the recommended pressure that the pump should be set at for a 2.0 litre Zetec running on 45's?

Cheers

I had my twink in my Europa rebuilt by QED QEDLink many years ago. Superb job.

Just by the bye, I don't often rev my engines over 6K rpm and QED sorted my engine to give really good performance at the rpm that I like.

However, as mentioned earlier in this thread, quality doesn't come cheap.

I did the conversion on my standard cockpit live axled 7 back in 1993 - works perfectly.

I did a write up for "Low Flying" at the time and it's included in the 7 Hints and Tips that was collated.

The pdf Hint & Tips can be found here 7 Hints and Tips and the conversion text is from page 69 with the modified bracket diagram on page 97.

Some things may have changed over the years as far as suppliers etc may be concerned but it may give you a general idea as to what needs to be done.

Same thing happened to my Zetec after I changed the ECU.

The info given above is accurate - simple software change via the laptop menu and all was normal again.

I've been using a Triumph GT6 heater unit for the last 30 years or so. It's mounted inside the cockpit vertically on the scuttle. The bonnet has the rearmost louvres facing forward (Swiss style) to get fresh air when required.

Works extremely well 😬

You'm right, the earlier wings came further forward and also sat much closer to the wheel. I really noticed the difference when I replaced my clad chassis along with the later wings in 1988. Got masses of front end lift and extremely light steering - just like driving on ice. I hated it compared to the feel of the older style wings.

I now have vents in the wings which has given me back the feel and handling.

I have seen a few examples over the years of the rearmost wing mounting pulling out (leaving a large hole) on those models without a mid support. I now use the mid support but fit them so that they push upwards against the wing using a hard foam rubber strip meaning that I don't require the mid fastener to go through the wing.

Steve, You're beast has changed somewhat since I last saw it!!

Does the K&N actually kill the 'bad stuff'?

I have the bottle now on order as my 'system' needs tidying up anyway. It'll make a change as (as you know) my 7 has been everyday transport for years and my engine compartment looks like a farmyard tractor - especially compared to you chaps 7's.

Thks for the help.

david

I'm thinking that, regardless, the system with the plastic bottle and routing to the underside is a far better way to go!

I tried my local Halfords and Autobitz for the plastic bottle earlier today but , unlike years ago, they don't stock them.................

Last question - where did you get yours from?

Many thanks for the help.

david

My breather valve unit appears to be smaller, grey steel and consists of a trapezoidal plate with a block behind into which there is a pipe (and presumably valve) pushed into it.

I have no catch tank. The pipes from the valve and the cam-cover join via a 'Y' piece and 'exhaust' into the rearmost K&N filter on the carbs.

Thanks Phil!

Was the "Black slab" a Ford part or a Raceline item? I have something similar but it looks to be smaller than the one fitted to your engine.

Crikey, your engine istallation is clean and very impressive - I would not remove my bonnet in your company!!!!

David

My 2.0L Zetec has started to chuck out bad fumes into the cockpit recently.

As my 7 was one of the first 2.0L conversions, the breather was probably not set-up by me very well/correctly when I did the installation and now that the beastie is getting rather ancient the breather is probably working harder.

Now that the Zetec has been used in a lot of 7's, can anybody throw light on the best method of the crankcase breathing pipework/system?

TIA

David

Just in case anybody is interested - this link is to the old (1968-1988) Lotus 7 Parts comparison list available many moons ago to club members - if it ain't accurate anymore please don't blame me.

Some of the old X-refs may be interesting/amusing?

http://www.david.mirylees.btinternet.co.uk/belowflying/lotus7partcomparisonlist.pdf

david

Ah, Eugene,

88G274 - havn't seen that part number for many, many years!

Austin A35 Top Link Bush :-)

david

Changed the rubber bushes too many times in the past (oily motors and leaking diffs) - went over to a spherical joint set-up and have had to replace the bearing (easy) once so far in the 22 years it's been fitted.

....and yes, this is a high mileage car!!

Parts available from Redline.

cheers

david

Have a look at this recent topic "Fluctuating Temperature Guage"

I've had the same problem now sorted :-) - it may help you......

david

Successful outcome!

For the record:

Checked the voltage as suggested - negligible drop.

Took a separate earth lead and touched it to one of the dash rivets whilst engine running and headlights on - 5 degree drop (no difference when the lead was touched to the dash itself).

Decided to run a short individual earth from the battery to the horizontal scuttle and realised that the main battery earth was not 100% tight. Cleaned the terminal and bollocked up the bolts - problem cured.

Would normally check this sort of thing but fitted a battery cut-out in 1988 so never do. I changed the battery in 2002 so it may well have been loose since then :-(

Thanks guys for all the help!

david

I having been using the XR4i 5-speed in my standard cockpit 7 since the late 80's. The gearlever is close to the dash but I have only crunched the knuckles a couple of times (in the early days).

The lever is very short and sits quite close to the top of the tunnel but changes are fine and easy.

(Cannot remember whether you have a long cockpit or a std car!)

david

Done the bending bit - as you so rightly surmised :-)

Mind you the first time was a failure as I had a non vented fuel cap and a mechanical pump on the (old) engine which collapsed the tank enough to cause the float to stick at mid-tank level - and yes, I did run out of fuel.......javascript:insertAtCursor(document.postpage.message,%20' *redface*')

...It was a long time ago and I hope that I now know better!

Thanks for the responses - I'll check the Alternator but that route is unlikely as the problem has existed for at least ten years and 70k+ miles!! I have not bothered too much about it but a few years ago on the way to the 25th Swiss meeting, whilst crawling through Basel, the temperature was showing maximum 'Red'. It was actually OK but very disconcerting at the time. I have also managed to run out of fuel (in the UK) when the guage was reading 'just' OK :-( So I thought that now was perhaps a time that I ought to fix it!

david