David Mirylees

I notice that many post 'replies' include a 'boxed' quote lifted from a previous comment.

How does one do this?

thks

david

Thank you for the responses.

No visible Voltage Regulator on the car (I remember playing with those in the good old days!!) so the regulator must be inside the alternator.

Apologies about the crank diameter - I wasn't thinking about normal cars and the alternator drive The Europa has an independent drive from the inlet camshaft...

John,

Why would the crank pulley affect the alternator? (probably my dementia, I know...)

Andy,

Didn't seem to be any time to mention the cars, past lives and some umentionable historic anecdotes took over!

Good decision to leave the 7 at home - far too icy for any playtime with the toys last night.

Great to meet you and looking forward to seeing the new 7.

Great - thank you for the link, I searched but obviously missed that one!

Looks like the Diodes then - no ECU on this old 1972 Europa...

On my twin cam Europa, every time the car is started when cold, the ignition light stays on until engine is revved/blipped over 3000rpm. Once warmed up the problem doesn't reappear.

Obviously not the best thing to rev a cold engine on it's first starts

All help, as usual, much appreciated...

Thank you chaps for all the help!

CTRL + the link works fine as does RT Click and selecting new Tab.

That was a problem that has been bugging me for ages - and I should have known better

Just for the record - Browser is Opera (used as this PC is still running NT and none of the other browsers support it)

Once again, thank you.

Is there any option to opening links in a new window?

Cheers

Agree that Red-X is probably no longer of much use but oil additives such as STP and Wynns - I am not so sure.

I always add a can of Wynns or STP to the oil at the oil change. Past experience has shown that these additives add a protective film to the surfaces of the inner components helping with such things as cold starting, sump surge etc.

Over the years I have holed many sumps on my 7 and once drove to a distant pub only to find that I had removed the sump plug completely on a raised drain cover many, many miles before. I had the car flat-bedded home, dropped the sump and pushed out the bearings to find that they were unmarked.

Love the stuff...

...and before I'm chastised for not observing the oil pressure - the gauge was obscured by my right hand and I didn't see it was at zero until I switched off. Yes I moved the gauge...

I've always had the same problem and have looked at alternatives such as the fixed type on a stem etc. which unfortunately caused other problems.

I came up with this solution a few years ago and it's been absolutely perfect.

Mirror

Look at issue #4 - Hint & Tips.

My example is not pretty, typically - the prototype worked first time and I've never tidied it up. I'm sure the idea can be cleaned up to suit a discerning owner...

Thanks Rich, of course it would have to be finishing on Sunday - probably still be en-route back from Stoneleigh...

I'll mention it to Road & Race.

Cheers

RS2000 3.54 Diff wanted. Must be genuine English CWP (not one of the current aftermarket items!!)

(Road & Race are looking for one for me but havn't had any luck yet...)

Cheers

I have a front U/J fail on a series 4 (Lotus) 7. Car was only a couple of years old and always serviced.

Driving back from Switzerland in 1971 got close to home whilst driving down the M4 at around 90mph, when there was a major vibration, terrific bang and flames shot across my lap from the centre tunnel. Stopped on the central reservation and watched the car disappear in flames and smoke.

Lotus said it had not happened to other cars.

Fire brigade reckoned I was lucky as - if I'd been going more slowly - they thought that the car would have 'pole-vaulted'. As it was, the propshaft disintegrated and just flailed around...

...Look after those U/J's

But I like driving in the rain 😬

Still, it'll have to be the Europa for the Bristol Classic Car show tomorrow...

Thks 4 the offer Chris but I have ordered an English 3.54 from Road & Race to ensure that this /next time everything is OK.

I got the dubious diff back earlier today and will get the CWP checked locally for hardness B4 I send it back to 'the tailors' for their comments.

I checked my diff with another and found that the top edges of the teeth have burred which is giving the rough edge. The other diff had teeth that were smooth to the touch.

Edited by - David Mirylees on 20 Apr 2012 18:50:34

Wife wont let me have too many duffnuts and it's soooo long since I REALLY played with the toy to be able to achieve a motoring example!!.

Thks Brian, CU at the Combe....

Part came from the 'people that make suits' so was expected to be of good quality. Their web pages state that their diffs are made to OEM stds. (unfortunately other already mentioned experts mentioned that these new diffs are made overseas and aren't brilliant).

Diff was installed by local garage which is always looking after 'interesting' machinery, has a great reputation and hillclimbs a couple of nice toys.

All the set-up was promised to be correct.

Correct oil was used and was at the right level...

Car only used on the road.

Anyone have any suggestions as to why a brand new crownwheel and pinion that was fitted 1600 miles ago to my Ford axled 7 should now be (to quote the garage) "eating itself"?

I took the car to the garage that did the fitting of the CWP last week for it's MOT and mentioned that the diff was noisy, whistling from 50 mph onwards. They rotated the propshaft and found that there was way too much play and told me that it should be less than half the way that it is now.

Booked the car in to have the diff checked and re-set and then received the dreaded 'eating itself' call.

The teeth on the CWP appear to be sharp/rough whereas I thought that they were smooth when I received it. Anyway the parts are over a year old now so the CWP supplier doesn't want to know but I would really like to know what has occurred.

Cheers.

This may help...Ford Engines

Notice that the twin-cam is different...

I agree with TJG.

Since the 70's I have had a ؼ" hole at each corner of the four floor panels. What comes in simply drains out again.

Did at one stage fit some wire that dangled a little through the holes which actually drew water out of the cockpit but it wasn't tidy and was soon removed (worked a bit like the item TADT's mentioned).

A 7 is always going to get wet inside at some time of it's life...

Lotus badge on the nose - must be a Lotus 😬

Reckon Eugene got it in one...

Not much Lotus in that car...

Have a friend in Australia who is searching for a Lotus 7 Series 4 Manual (purple cover).

Anyone able to help?

Cheers

david

Thanks Olly, let me know what you want for it whenever we can get together...

Ummm, me no standunder wot you mean - car was quite clean before last Sunday's trip to Compton Abbas in the rain and sleet. (well,OK, to my not concours standards)

Strangely enough didn't see any other open cars apart from Rhett Land in his 7 😬

(havn't dared look in the garage since as it was such a s***t day).

Looking for a K&N 4½" x 7" oval chrome outer plate/lid with a single central mounting hole.

Example here: K&N there's an image half way down with number 56-1210 which looks just the the one that parted company from the front carb yesterday and was subsequently demolished...

Any help in locating one - very much appreciated

Thanks

David