David Mirylees

Morning Mr Dickson

Passed the info on to the Europa chaps

xx

My bonnet has the heater louvres reversed from standard. It is (was in 1988) the standard bonnet on cars going to Switzerland.

Reason I got mine like that when I re-chassied was I have a GT6 heater mounted vertically on the cockpit side of the scutlle and the louvres drive air into the heater.

At the time Graham Nearn told me that my car should be standard! - are any?

Hi Nigel, I think that you'll probably need to get the chassis mods done as the mill sits like this in my 1988 chassis (I rebuilt the car in 1988 just to get the modified chassis to take an engine with the cam[belt!!)

Some pics that may help? pic 1

pic 2

pic 3

The chassis model pic I found recently when I want to put some holes in my inner skin for ACF 50 treatment...(may not be totally accurate though)

Hope they help

Bruce is really your best bet to aid doing it properly

Edited by - David Mirylees on 2 Mar 2014 19:15:14

This is what happens to a Lotus series 4 7 when the front UJ lets go S4 7 UJ Failure

Luckily happened at around 90mph so the propshaft shattered rather than pole vaulting the car. The fire was caused by the flailing prop severing the main fuel line.

Driver and passenger OK.

All Caterham's should be fitted at birth with protection in the front UJ area!!

Thanks chaps

Raysons say they can source the original from their supplier in 5-6 weeks 😬

Another source reckoned about the same.

Logging all other info gratefully received for future use

Thank you both.

Zetec, do you have any manufacturer or numbers available for the X-Flow item?

What alternators are you Silver Top Zetec chaps using?

I have a Jimmy the Fish/Dunnell 2.0 litre silver top and the alternator is getting a little noisy. Mine is a Valeo but the info has worn away - it's probably a 432836 but for RH use.

Trouble is I have had no success in finding one so alternatives are now required.

TIA.

Just take a sticky pad mount type of mirror, remove the pad then rivet the pad block to a simple bracket and hook it over the top of the screen.

It will not fall off, is still adjustable and easily removable. Mine has been like that for a dozen years or so.

I just have a couple of holes to help the water drain out

Same here, got to be the best idea - I have 1/4" holes at the corners of each floor panel - what comes in goes out again 😬

If the nose cone fits under the lower brackets, you don't really require the fasteners there at all. Just coax the brackets downwards to a position where the play is minimal when lifting the nose.

This also means you don't get dirty knees (etc) when removing the nose cone.

Had mine like that for at least 28 years and many thousands of miles without problems.

I had the front UJ in a series 4 Lotus 7 fail at around 90mph on the M4 back in 1971. The car had run faultlessly from Switzerland then a few miles from Bath there was a load of vibration, a terrific bang and flames came out of the top of the centre console.

Whole car went up in flames very quickly. (the flailing prop severed the main fuel line)

I was told by the 'crash inspector' that it was lucky I was travelling at a reasonable speed and that the prop had disentegrated as it was flailing around and not 'pole-vaulted' the car.

Lotus said that it was very unusual for a UJ to let go.

So, yes, a hoop is an excellent idea...

You pay your money and you make your choice 😬

...and actually it isn't heavy at all. Don't know where RJ is looking but it you click the tech spec link and browse down to page 4. The switch is a single pole unit identical to the Caterham item but with a metal toggle. (636H/2 with spade terminals)

Didn't notice my car listing to the right after fitting!!

Edited by - David Mirylees on 24 Jun 2013 23:30:28

This is the one I use (info gleaned from old switch).

£3.73 free carriage - _{IF you have a contact with a Farnell accoun}t.

Check out the datasheet, the one used is 636H/2.

Dip Switch

Hope this helps. Worth adding to your database for future ref. anyway?

Try these Ultra LEDs They were sourced by someone else on BC and are really bright - brighter than std. Don't know if they're 'E' rated.

I use the red ones.

My rear lamps are Land Rover and the LED's are positioned for rearward viewing but other 7 owners locally have them fitted to the standard Caterham cluster and they are still brighter than normal.

7/16" UNF Socket Button Head Screw

Should be available from local fastener companies but a quick google came up with this? Quick link

Hope that at least the description helps

Opera also underlines misspelled words as you type.

Oh, yes and I still use Microsoft Word

Great stuff - many thanks 😬