David Mirylees

I used a Land Rover switch (nice red button 😬). To connect it I just used mini spades which were a nice tight fit.

Just take a sticky pad mount type of mirror, remove the pad then rivet the pad block to a simple bracket and hook it over the top of the screen. It will not fall off, is still adjustable and easily removable. Mine has been like that for a dozen years or so.

Quoting myothercarsa2cv: I just have a couple of holes to help the water drain out Same here, got to be the best idea - I have 1/4" holes at the corners of each floor panel - what comes in goes out again 😬

Have my flashers rigged with a buzzer and the required diodes but recently saw this which may be an easy fix? Audible Flasher Unit

If the nose cone fits under the lower brackets, you don't really require the fasteners there at all. Just coax the brackets downwards to a position where the play is minimal when lifting the nose. This also means you don't get dirty knees (etc) when removing the nose cone. Had mine like that for at least 28 years and many thousands of miles without problems.

Also the Reliant Robin heater was another alternative to the LR version.

I had the front UJ in a series 4 Lotus 7 fail at around 90mph on the M4 back in 1971. The car had run faultlessly from Switzerland then a few miles from Bath there was a load of vibration, a terrific bang and flames came out of the top of the centre console. Whole car went up in flames very quickly. (the flailing prop severed the main fuel line) I was told by the 'crash inspector' that it was lucky I was travelling at a reasonable speed and that the prop had disentegrated as it was flailing around and not 'pole-vaulted' the car. Lotus said that it was very unusual for a UJ to let go. So, yes, a hoop is an excellent idea...

You pay your money and you make your choice 😬 ...and actually it isn't heavy at all. Don't know where RJ is looking but it you click the tech spec link and browse down to page 4. The switch is a single pole unit identical to the Caterham item but with a metal toggle. (636H/2 with spade terminals) Didn't notice my car listing to the right after fitting!! Edited by - David Mirylees on 24 Jun 2013 23:30:28

This is the one I use (info gleaned from old switch). £3.73 free carriage - IF you have a contact with a Farnell account. Check out the datasheet, the one used is 636H/2. Dip Switch Hope this helps. Worth adding to your database for future ref. anyway?

May not be the same handbrake calipers but my local garage had a newish Caterham in with a rubbish handbrake and after talking to a supplier discovered the calipers were off a go-Kart. They managed to source replacements then from a local Kart specialist.

Try these Ultra LEDs They were sourced by someone else on BC and are really bright - brighter than std. Don't know if they're 'E' rated. I use the red ones. My rear lamps are Land Rover and the LED's are positioned for rearward viewing but other 7 owners locally have them fitted to the standard Caterham cluster and they are still brighter than normal.

7/16" UNF Socket Button Head Screw Should be available from local fastener companies but a quick google came up with this? Quick link Hope that at least the description helps

Opera also underlines misspelled words as you type. Oh, yes and I still use Microsoft Word

Quoting Jonathan Kay: Use the little speech balloon icon as the first action in replying. Great stuff - many thanks 😬

I notice that many post 'replies' include a 'boxed' quote lifted from a previous comment. How does one do this? thks david

Thank you for the responses. No visible Voltage Regulator on the car (I remember playing with those in the good old days!!) so the regulator must be inside the alternator. Apologies about the crank diameter - I wasn't thinking about normal cars and the alternator drive The Europa has an independent drive from the inlet camshaft...

John, Why would the crank pulley affect the alternator? (probably my dementia, I know...) Andy, Didn't seem to be any time to mention the cars, past lives and some umentionable historic anecdotes took over! Good decision to leave the 7 at home - far too icy for any playtime with the toys last night. Great to meet you and looking forward to seeing the new 7.

Great - thank you for the link, I searched but obviously missed that one! Looks like the Diodes then - no ECU on this old 1972 Europa...

On my twin cam Europa, every time the car is started when cold, the ignition light stays on until engine is revved/blipped over 3000rpm. Once warmed up the problem doesn't reappear. Obviously not the best thing to rev a cold engine on it's first starts All help, as usual, much appreciated...

Thank you chaps for all the help! CTRL + the link works fine as does RT Click and selecting new Tab. That was a problem that has been bugging me for ages - and I should have known better Just for the record - Browser is Opera (used as this PC is still running NT and none of the other browsers support it) Once again, thank you.

Is there any option to opening links in a new window? Cheers

Agree that Red-X is probably no longer of much use but oil additives such as STP and Wynns - I am not so sure. I always add a can of Wynns or STP to the oil at the oil change. Past experience has shown that these additives add a protective film to the surfaces of the inner components helping with such things as cold starting, sump surge etc. Over the years I have holed many sumps on my 7 and once drove to a distant pub only to find that I had removed the sump plug completely on a raised drain cover many, many miles before. I had the car flat-bedded home, dropped the sump and pushed out the bearings to find that they were unmarked. Love the stuff... ...and before I'm chastised for not observing the oil pressure - the gauge was obscured by my right hand and I didn't see it was at zero until I switched off. Yes I moved the gauge...

I've always had the same problem and have looked at alternatives such as the fixed type on a stem etc. which unfortunately caused other problems. I came up with this solution a few years ago and it's been absolutely perfect. Mirror Look at issue #4 - Hint & Tips. My example is not pretty, typically - the prototype worked first time and I've never tidied it up. I'm sure the idea can be cleaned up to suit a discerning owner...

Thanks Rich, of course it would have to be finishing on Sunday - probably still be en-route back from Stoneleigh... I'll mention it to Road & Race. Cheers

RS2000 3.54 Diff wanted. Must be genuine English CWP (not one of the current aftermarket items!!) (Road & Race are looking for one for me but havn't had any luck yet...) Cheers