David Mirylees

Have you thought about simply dropping a couple of Cobra classic seats in?

I did mine in 1980 and they are brilliant - plus no fixings required.

I used standard ones and had to modify  but I see they now do a narrow version that may be better.

David

I have had a Lifeline boss and shaft sitting with my odds and sods.

No idea as to postage or indeed how to pack it but quite happy to go to a new home for £50 plus PP.

Or collect from Charminster DT2 9QY

Cheers,

David Mirylees

I saw a Caterham at Haynes today fitted with a round GPS speedo with trip etc. A quick google for 'GPS speedo with trip brought up a few options all around the £50 mark.
The one I saw had the GPS pickup positioned on the horizontal seat belt mounting rail. (it was about the size of a 50p coin.)

I run an Aldon distributor (same as Petronix?) in my 1973 Lotus Europa twin cam.
This is a screen shot of the Europa wiring showing the ballast resistor wiring.
The ballast resistor used is a separate quite large item.

Don't know if this is of any help but...JIC 🤞 

Rear view still good - unless I need to read a number plate of an SUV travelling too closely behind 😞 

I suppose it depends where your rear view mirror is placed - the side mirrors cater for blind spots.

This was us on our way to Silverstone a few years ago.  Big tent - "Freedom Trail Sendero 4 Family Tent" (wifey says must be able to stand up in the thing) Double airbed, sleeping bags plus air pillows. All in a standard cockpit boot.
Everything else on the outside including waterproof Samsonite case plus drybags for washing gear etc., etc.
Washing up bowl behind the spare wheel.
Home to home! 🙂

Ref. Wrightpayne:  The Canley site states that they also supply Ford PCD hubs.

Canley Classics do an upgrade kit for the larger stub axles and same size bearings

https://www.canleyclassics.com/?product=uprated-front-hub-and-stub-axle-kit

I think that you'll find they are identical to other kits out there.

Plus they also do a trunnionless conversion kit which you might have seen elsewhere

https://www.canleyclassics.com/?product=trunnionless-front-suspension-kit

I believe that the trunnionless kit was developed well ahead of the Caterham offering which may be very similar - I have never looked.

I have the trunnion and axle kits on my series 3 7 and they are the DB's.

David

Haven't used the lower nosecone fasteners for about 40 years. They are always a pain to use and it is guaranteed that you'll be on your knees when it's filthy and raining.
I removed the fasteners from the nosecone and bent the chassis tabs such that one 'hooks' the nosecone under the tabs and rotates it into it's correct location for fixing the upper fasteners. 
The nosecone will not be going anywhere plus the bonnet gives it extra security (obviously you can adjust the tabs to make it as tight as you like if you wish to).
Doddle to remove and replace 👌  

Appreciate that you don't need one - I didn't when I did mine but as someone mentioned this particular tool I assumed that it would be helpful information.

The Halfords ball joint separator currently (April 2024) is £40.99 
I purchased the same thing ten years ago for £11.99 and today doing an ebay search "Ball Joint Separator Splitter 20-50mm" results in a great number of these splitters from £12.99

Just as an aside: Having used this unit on many top ball joints and TR ends very successfully, I found years ago that by reversing the pivot point the tool can be used to push back caliper pistons on single piston brakes (in my case Volvo 940).

david

Ah, thanks Stu, that does make sense!

I haven't looked at the switches yet, I was just deciding if I could use some different switch units and was investigating before creating a disaster (old man with old car...)

:-)

Just looking at the post 1987 wiring diagram - in particular the rocker switches - and am at a loss to understand what the highlighted 'termination' means?

Can anybody shed some light on it please?

Many thanks

david

I couldn't immediately see the model of Protex over-centre lockable latch (they are appx. 40 years old!) but a search on Google and a look at the images threw up a number of possibilities and these looked about right but I didn't see any size mentioned.
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/grayston-over-centre-panel-clips-243649/?sku=GRYGE65&istCompanyId=a2904180-3a7d-4e56-b876-cf81c9512180&istFeedId=6fbc4b04-fd28-4ce1-8513-835c8f118690&istItemId=wptwlxamr&istBid=t&gclid=Cj0KCQjwusunBhCYARIsAFBsUP8h-r-PJfgpiRt9QRwgq9PYZiIznBAEt12Zrlq_F6ck1FfDX_7Owl0aAnGmEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

david

I have been using the lockable over-centre latches on my S3 since the early 80's. They don't come undone so playtime can be enjoyed without worry.   (I went through many adventures particularly with the rear latches become undone).
I obtained my latches from a company called Protex - I assume they still exist as they were/are a large supplier to the engineering industry.  They also fit the original mounting holes (well, at least mine did!)
I just use 'R' pins to secure them.

David

I have a long time friend and owner of a Caterham who has been running Evans waterless coolant for the last four or five years with no problems.

David

Cheers ECR,

Someone else had a 1991 rad but with the number S7358  but probably the same unit.  I think it was called a 'High Capacity' radiator which would make sense.

Thank you all for your help.

david

Thank you chaps.  General consensus is that it is indeed a CovRad item, The redacted sticker on the underside is almost unreadable (as obviously intended!) but I can just make out the part number "ACE 5...."  Further investigation now to update my listings  

David

Can anyone help me with information on where the radiator was sourced from in a 1988 Seven?

Cheers, David

 I have heard from Derek Howlett  (Caterham Tech)

"When we built these cars the standard spring rates were 105 Ibs front and 75 Ibs rear, we did do an upgrade which I have been informed was a better set up and that is 240 Ibs front 96 Ibs rear"

That makes sense to me as Mick at Redline sold me the (probably!) upgraded fronts in 1993 which would explain my running an 8 coil front spring!

It also makes sense that Redline are supplying 104 lbs rears which look pretty close.

Cheers,

David

Stephen - Good idea, sometimes the obvious is easily overlooked  

I have pretty much the same problem and am scratching everything trying to ensure I buy the correct springs. My chassis is a 1988  with everything bog-standard (eg. small anti-roll bar and cruciform top link)  
I need to replace the springs front and rear due to high mileage and wear but can't find the info on the rates anywhere (except maybe here!!) 
My car is a live axled (Ford) short cockpit and is a crossflow.

Any further info to the above would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Spoke to Burton today and they reckon that: As they don't have such an item for the Zetec, then they don't believe that one is required.

TBH there are no gaps - at least when using the Raceline sump.

dsm

Is the 'Dirt Plate' required (the thin metal plate that sits between the engine block and the bell housing)?

I had one on my crossflow but have never used one when I went Zetec. 

Just wondering as I've just remembered about it.

david

Still waiting...