ChrisC

A standard exhaust needs to pass IVA at 98db static, mine passed at 96db. I believe brands may be a problem with drive-by, hence the trackday option, that said my 420R passed drive-by at Bedford, which is supposed to be the toughest. I think it all depends on the location of the mics.

I found a photo which shows how much of the outer cable is through the chassis bracket, before the cover plate was fitted. It shows how much of the cable has to be released on a car fitted with the 2020 cable, don't forget if you have a BMW diff it also has to be released from the bracket on the diff carrier in the boot. We all need to remember these cars are constantly changing, I spotted over ten changes from my 2020 car to a recent 2021 420R kit I looked at. Any of these changes can change a maintenance procedure, but the good news is, it does mean every days a school day

That photo is my car, and when I removed the prop recently the cover plate was fitted. The green arrow is pointing to the outer cable location point for the LHS where there is no corresponding bracket on the diff carrier. The opposite side cased my lack of clearance hampering removal (from the diff carrier) before dropping the diff. I have only ever changed one handbrake cable, the diff was out but the cover plate was fitted. I suspect fitting one with the diff in position would only be possible if the prop was disconnected, even then I might be tempted to remove the hub/driveshaft assembly each side for access. I also suspect you would have to remove diff bolts as you go to gain access. The green arrow bracket would be my last point for release when removing, and the first for reassembly.

Having just replaced my prop on a 2020 S3 chassis, I can say the handbrake cable removal from the diff carrier did require the disconnection of the cable from the handbrake. It was simple, just pull the pin holding pulley bracket to the handbrake. Obviously this wasn't needed to remove the cable from the calipers that could be done with the adjuster. I found even with the handbrake cable disconnected from the calipers, there wasn't enough slack for the outer cable to clear the diff bracket. Not sure if the dimensions have changed, but the adjustment nut is no longer white (as it has been on all my previous cars), new supplier or specification change, I don't know. I have never needed to remove the prop cover plate in all my years of Caterham ownership. I suspect it would only be needed for chassis work or refurbishment. Also is it a stressed member, like the side panels of the trans tunnel? I thought the trans side panels where the only stressed panel left on the modern seven, but happy to be correct. Given the diff mounts can fail with higher powered cars, and are strengthened in 620/R500 I can't help thinking it's an area I would leave alone.

Super glue is recommended by the build manual. Personally I don't like that trim and build using a less permanent alternative, making removal post IVA possible.

I use a mityvac to drain the fluid from the caliper / lines, it's almost drip free to use. Then just use the bungs that came with the original kit.

If it's orange in colour then you would have been originally filled with Motul, my 2019 kit was supplied with Comma G30 concentrate, which is more pink in colour.

I find the sensor gets tight in the top hat if the top hat is fitted and locked into place.

I combine the tried and tested shop towel with motorbike brake master cylinder socks, even with the race cap fitted. https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.co.uk/2020/09/11/finishing-touches/

Since I don't know what the upgrade includes, I would speak to Premier Power. Stuart will be the best to advise.

Jonathan's guide covers all you need to know. I am confused by your wording, I assume it's from your mechanic, these sensors don't send a signal. The sensors CC use are just switches, simple on or off, hence it would be worth checking for the LED on the sensor itself, is that going on and off as the wheel rotates. Gap is always the number one suspect, it has changed with the new sensor. Beyond that, it could be a faulty pull up resistor (located behind the speedo), wiring connection between the speedo and the sensor, or as pointed out the speedo itself. The speed sensor wire can also be found in the ECU connector, although it should be isolated and not connected to the ECU, could that have been altered recently?

I did mention the slimmer more flexible hose in post #20 back in August.

I found out because I cut my top hose to short during my build. I just ordered a replacement. The shape hasn't changed, but I suspect that's because 360 cars are still using the older design rads (or should I say the last one I saw, an early 2021 kit was). According to images in v2 Duratec build manuals they should have the same rad without the oil cooler, not that those images are anything to go by. These cars are constantly changing, as suppliers come and go, expecting things to remain the same is just unrealistic. CC just doesn't have that sort of buying power. Side by side photos of the new hose are https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.co.uk/2020/01/30/engine-plumbing-electrics-part-2/

You do know CC have changed the top hose to be more flexible by reducing the wall thickness? Found that out late 2019 early 2020, since then all the hoses have been changed. The new hoses have a different finish and use the new logo.

Mark, as I said, did this week before fish & chip run, without a scratch to any component. Loosen prop bolts Drain and disconnect the rear calipers Disconnect handbrake from the calipers Disconnect speed sensor and rear ARB Remove the Ear / hub assembly as one unit each side. Remove Shocks, radius arms, A frame Remove rear ARB Disconnect the dedion tube brake hose Remove the dedion tube Remove the tunnel cover (may need to remove a seat) Discount handbrake cable from the handbrake. Remove handbrake cable from the diff carrier Remove the diff bolts and remove the diff. Don't be tempted to remove the wheel bearings from the driveshafts, you might end up needing to replace both, due to bearing fretting. Leave what isn't broken alone. New diff driveshaft seals will be included in any rebuild, so no need to worry about the seals, and if you kept the bungs that the diff came with you can also leave the oil in place. (Maybe not if your posting it) Remember you still have to refit it after, which from your blog looks like it wasn't the most pleasant of experiences, so worth consider when you determine your approach. Still think this is pointless until you actually have a problem, but that's just me. Would have loved to have been driving my car instead of tearing it apart, and putting it back together again under time pressure.

Very interesting, 360S with a dry sump is an unusual combination. Also the alternator location is strange, unlike my 360 of the similar era.

Interesting change to 2021 420 cars, CC have modified the nose cone, adding an additional grill (below the number plate fitting position) increasing air flow to the oil cooler.

Well in that case, I can't believe I managed 2 seasons already without a problem. Thankfully I have had my plates and bellevilles in my own hands, less than a week ago. Poor Mark, no strategy for you, until you pander to the haters on the internet.

For me a Titan owner, the strategy is simple, monitor the pre load and rebuild when the clutches wear out. If you monitor it regularly you should be able to predict your diffs life and which winter to rebuild it. I expect that to be about 4 year time for my car. Apart from that regular spanner checks, that's about it.

Isn't it speed sensor related, gets hot if the sensor stops in an on position (could be hot when off). Green and Yellow Black are also speed sensor colours. I believe it's used to convert the speedo to use a NPN or PNP sensor.

Just looking at the out of date diagrams, the instruments fuse will kill all the gauges, and the ignition relay. If you kill that relay its a non starter. The green wire to the gauges should be you feed. Beyond that check the earth on either side of the chassis.

Finding a wiring diagram is going to be difficult. The last wiring diagram published (I have seen) was in the 2015 build manuals, unfortunately this Sigma diagram show components that weren't on my 2011 Sigma car, and hadn't been for some time, i.e. a MFU unit. Also there were wires missing from the engine to chassis loom connectors. From what I remember the Tacho has a voltage regulator in it, which powers most of the gauges. If that happened to me I would be inclined to look at the speed sensor, but you said no fuses had blow, which is the strange part. The speed sensor (or should I say the suspension would have been getting a good workout hence my suspicion. The speed sensor tends to blow the instrument fuse, which (on Duratec cars anyway) also kills the ECU. Much like a short in the indicators car kill a Duratec ECU. Hence I always run LED fuses. Use the pin out diagrams on the smiths instruments support pages to see if your tacho is providing the voltage for the other instruments.

The LED dimmers are what CC used on their press cars, but they have since redesigned the Tacho warning lights to a more traditional illuminated symbol which also solves the problem.

After first hand reports from a specialist Caterham mechanic of cheaper nuts stripping before reaching the 270Nm I have decided to stick with the Ford Original parts, as supplied in my kit in late 2019, and still available from your local Ford dealer. Not the cheapest, but my best chance of a quality guarantee. I have seen them as low as £1.80 each, what I don't want to do is pay top dollar and get bargain basement, because the only way I am going to find out is either the nut fails in use, or fails as torque it up, both sound like I and the car could sustain damage. If you stick with genuine Ford parts the socket size will be 42mm

The torque setting change was made when the steering UJ design was changed, they have since reverted back to the original part design. You have the original design UJ.