ChrisC

Don't know the exact date they switched from the 80c to the 95+ stat, but it was some time near the introduction of the new model numbers. My 360R was an Oct 2015 kit, which had a 95+ stat and a ECU which switched the fan on at 90c, so the fan ran constantly. Since I couldn't change the fan on temperature, I changed the stat to the 80c alternative. It was at that point I noticed the T piece deformation. It was made worse with the location of the washer bottle at that time putting pressure on the hoses going to the T. My 420R Sep 2019 kit, is happy with the 95+c stat and the fan switch on/off points are fine. The combination of pressure and under bonnet heat didn't end well for my expansion tank, which expanded a little to far for the nose cone on the way back from IVA, but the Gates plastic T has been perfect, highly recommend.

Yes it's just the hoses you have to fit as a builder, the bypass hose is pre fitted.

Are but it does now :-). So assuming all the big hoses are done, there is a photo that used to be sent out to help. Let me see if I can find it. https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bHXbo1qs1ZM/Uh5UYmOzmyI/AAAAAAAAAK8/qfeHZAv-JW4/s1600/SuperSportRCoolantRouting.jpg The only thing to be careful of is the metal T (called the submarine), make sure the gauge sensor wiring (very short) reaches the sensor in the submarine. So cut your hoses with that in mind.

This may be obvious, but might as well say it, always ensuring you can access and loosen the fill plug before the drain plug. It prevents a simple job from escalating.

Don't forget it may be a Mazda gearbox but it's in a Caterham casing. The conversation is done by that company I provided the link to the other day. Given the lack of information I would start there.

If nobody knows of the top of their head, it might be worth speaking to the gearbox manufacturer (or converter) since the casing is their design not Mazda. https://www.vitesse-ltd.com/

Sounds like you haven't got the same problem as my car had :-). You would know it.

The vibration was very distinctive, speed related and was felt in the seat. All the signs should have pointed me to prop, but basically I put it off hoping for the simplest solution. The interesting bit is the noise also sounded like diff, but wasn't (or was it). With a front UJ no longer identifying as a UJ you get strange changes in rotation speed of the prop entering the diff. This must have been loaded and unloading the CWP and diff pin against the ramp angles, especially in reverse where the angle is 90 degrees. As said UJ failure is rare (first I have experienced), and had my car been outside warranty a swap to a better quality UJ would have been my desired route, but while under warranty a replacement prop was the answer.

I have it in writing from CC, it was added for clearance between the chassis and the gearbox. If you think that statement through, that means clearance is marginal without it, something that's been known for some time. Given the price and how easy it is to fit, for me it's a no brainier, on any pre 2021 5 speed Mazda boxed car, especially if your working on the car in that area. That said, the reason it dramatically reduced my cars noise wasn't because of clearance, it was because it altered the prop working angle slightly, which combined with a faulty front UJ meant a reduction in noise and vibration. Ultimately my car was only fixed of vibration and unexplainable noises with a prop replacement. Given your diff was out, you did check your UJs didn't you?

Just an FYI. Having owned a JCW F56 in silver white, I have to say it wouldn't be my first choice colour. It showed every imperfection even from new, including imperfections from the panel pressing process. Obviously Caterham panel are less precise, so the problem will only be worse. If I were buying another Mini it wouldn't be in silver white, even though I like the look.

The fact it goes to stage 5 suggests the battery is ready to use (stage 4). I think if it was my car, I would disconnect the battery from the car to remove one of the variables. Check the battery with a multimeter (as already stated), and try again with the AGM reconditioning setting. At least with the battery disconnected you are down to charger or battery being the problem.

The Ford parts, supplied via Ford main dealer, using part numbers from the originals supplied by CC in my kit, are now 42mm both sides.

I think it's worth pointing out the Caterham cat in IVA implementations may not be as effective as modern car designs require. Caterham don't actively heat the cat, and it's location at the end of the primaries half way down the car doesn't help it's heat retention either. Without heat the reaction needed doesn't occur. It's also not monitored downstream by the ECU to ensure the reaction is happening. Basically it's not cutting edge emissions control technology, more bare minimum amateur car builders emissions loophole to maintain a cottage car industry. They can be made to work, heating then with revs for a few minutes before testing is often needed at MOT time and even IVA. But they can fail due to pop and bangs happening in the delicate honeycomb structure. You would need to be a scientist to workout the damage done vs the environmental cost of rare metals needed in the cat to give a definitive answer of the environmental point. Oh but should say, but it is the law to have one.

The nicest alternative magnetic diff plug is from the States, by a company called Turner, part number 027030TMS01. It's the same shape, fitting and is specifically designed for BMW diffs. It's also titanium :-). I have been using one since September this year on my 2019 supplied kit diff. I can't see why it wouldn't work on the earlier backplate designs CC used for the BMW diff, but I also have no way of checking, all I can say is it works of the backplate used since late October 2015, because my previous car had the same backplate.

Steve, sorry to here about your preload, and fingers crossed your final drive is ok. Removal isn't that hard, but easier if you can get some assistance with the final lowering.

Above 42.5 ft.lbs. is all good, 20 is time to rebuild, assuming no other strange behaviour. Just don't be fooled with those Clark digital torque wrenchs, mine showed a 10% difference between clockwise and anti-clockwise readings. Not happy that this difference prompted my diff removal half way through the year, but it did ultimately lead to me finding my cars long term NVH issue, and just in time for it to be covered under warranty. The advise I will give is just stick to one side for your readings with that torque wrench, so you can compare apples with apples next time you take a reading.

Are yes good point, hunting can also occur with to much throttle stop. I find stalling and starting problems are normally throttle stop to closed, hence I only mentioned opening but the adjustment can be either way. love the maths

As above, just keep increasing the throttle opening until you find the happy point where it will idle, then get the TPS to throttle site 0.0, but on the edge, so as soon as you touch the throttle it's in a higher site. With the Duratecs the TPS doesn't officially have any adjustment, but actually a little rats tail file can open out the mounting holes just a little bit enough to get the setting needed. It's only a tiny bit that's needed most of the time. With all the battery disconnects it's a tedious process, but worth the effort. Much easier if you have an isolator. I am soon going over to a mates 310R which is running well (as far as I know) to look at a rear suspension clonk. If I get time I will see what TPS voltage, and manifold vacuum it's pulling at idle. The vacuum should vary depending how closed the throttle flap is at idle, if your running a higher vacuum at the same idle speed your throttle flap is more closed. (Assuming no manifold leaks)

It's a MBE specific lead, but the software is free. https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/MBE-MAP-KIT-3-CAN-basic-can-mapping-kit-for-mbe-can-based-ecus.html It's expensive, and you can't make any changes, only read live data, so diagnosis is based on observation and logging not codes. That said there was some great work carried out my members to make a Raspberry Pi version, if that's your thing.

In my experience (I have not worked on a 310R, but plenty of 150, and Duratecs), the TPS voltage seems low, but the actual voltage isn't important, what's important is your idle is set to the transition point. I.e. at idle the throttle site is 0.0, but just 0.01v increase sees the throttle site increased from 0.0 to 0.1 (at least, or could be more) I liken it to 'standing on the edge of a cliff', the closer you are to the edge, the less hesitation you get. The lambda sensor should give you a messages depending on its state. It will be inactive when the coolant is below 60C, and 30 seconds after the engine has started. Then you should see lambda sensor doing its thing, maintaining the correct ratio. They do fail, so I wouldn't rule it out based on the age, but feel you would be unlucky if it has failed. Don't be afraid to open the throttle stop a little, the idle speed is controlled by the ECU advancing and retardant the ignition. It sounds to me like your throttle stop is a little to closed, caused the reluctance to start and low revs, but this is only guessing based on the description. I know this exact task is on my winter service task list for my 420, which since the decat, and as the miles have increased has started to hunt a little when the coolant is lower than 20C, so I will be opening the throttle stop a little, and readjusting the TPS back to the cliff edge.

Got to say if you are using the Caterham branded rear calipers, which are new not reconditioned Ford units (started in 2017), and the Delphi rear pads (standard with upgraded front brakes) then the rear pad rattle can be horrendous. You need to bend the anti rattle springs on the pads to stop it.

Ford Sierra rear caliper pad anti rattle springs. Caterham supply use Delphi LX0221

I wouldn't read anything into that build, the car already had a number plate so it was already registered. You can see the bell housing has clutch dirt in it, the discs where rusty etc. so it had been used. That car must have been disassembled for the the PR stunt.

2017 should have carbon plates, and yes they are likely to be warn out, or on the way at 4000. Preload is simple to measure, 5 min task, you need a torque wrench and a 41mm socket (could be 42mm is the nut has been changed recently). All it is, is the force needed to turn one wheel while the other is locked (on the ground). Yes there is a Quaife ATB for the BMW Diff, also a Drexler and the SPC. I did mine in two weekends, one out, one in, the weeks before the fish and chip run. Mine was removed for a prop replacement, not a diff issue. Can't help on the SPC cost, but a Titan rebuild/reset is £150+vat, plus parts.

I have seen two of the three diagrams for the new looms fitted to the 420. But they aren't published anymore :-(. The 420 now has three looms, chassis, engine and dash. The chassis is common, the engine depends on engine fitted, and the dash depends if you have the 620 dash or not. The bit I find bit really interesting is the addition of a dash control module with the standard dash.