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ChrisC

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Posts posted by ChrisC

  1. Caterham only stock one, which is for a non fuel injection car. For your car it looks like the Demon Tweeks (other motor sport suppliers exist) catalogue is a good starting point.

     

     

     

    Chris....

    H15 SVN Get it !

  2.  

    Hi all

     

    I am looking for the exact position of the bonnet decal, because my car had no bonnet decals fitted when I purchased it, and I have now obtained replacements from Caterham. 🤔

     

    Hope you can help

     

     

    Chris....

    H15 SVN Get it !

  3. Hi All

     

    I phoned BTB yesterday afternoon to see if they could do a carbon exhaust for my otherwise standard 97 VX 2ltr with carbs. However they have stopped producing them.

     

    The main reason for a exhaust change is the original 4-1 Caterham unit is very loud, and I assume the packing material has long since departed. I would like to get the sound levels down for track days.

     

    I have scanned the archives and have finalised my new exhaust choice to either of the following.

     

    1, Stainless steel, made by Hayward and Scott (very local to me) with a 2.5” inlet (original manifold retained but collector enlarged).

     

    2, Raceco Ti system either 6.25” or 7.25” again with 2.5” inlet.

     

    2.5” inlet has been chosen because I don’t intend keeping the engine standard for long. *wink*

     

    I have two questions.

     

    Does the Raceco Ti system turn blue with heat, like I have seen of some motorbikes, and has anyone got a picture of this effect?

     

    You can only find praise from H&S, but I have seen no pictures of their Caterham work, has anyone got a picture? (full stainless please)

     

    Finally exhaust guards, what size exhaust guards can I get in silver and do I need one? Burning the wife’s legs would be a very bad move. 😳 (The original reason I decided to fit a Carbon unit)

     

    Hope you can help

     

    Chris.

  4. I would recommend replacing the heater switch if you are changing the switch to a activate a 12v socket. I would speak to the manufactures of the switch (which has been posted) a few weeks back to get a plan switch single through. The heater switch has a two step position so would be more difficult to wire. Alternative is to replace the Heater switch with a Heated Screen switch, the remove the Heated Screen Symbol with Braso (mask the Black part of the switch or it will make it shine). A wiring connector can be found in the scrap yard from any old Mini (used the same switches).

     

    Not sure of the switch rating, but I would expect the heated screen would have more draw than any device plugged into a 12V socket (apart from fag lighter) .

     

    Hope this helps

     

     

    Chris....

    H15 SVN Get it !

  5. Hi Ewenm

     

    It would be possible to write a map download program for a Pocket PC device, but I think it would be better just to use a Laptop and save the effort.

     

    “Fast and Furious” very Max Power. 😳

     

     

    Chris....

    H15 SVN Get it !

  6. OK a number of points

     

    1, I am making the assumption that your 6 speed box is a Caterham article, if it is the 6 gear is not an overdrive, the box does not have one.

     

    2, A manufacture quoted BHP figure is given with perfect conditions. That includes no alternator load, perfect intake air density and temperature etc etc. The reading is given from the Flywheel to remove losses, which occur through the transmission.

     

    You will never have this perfect condition, because your engine is install in an engine bay. The clutch, gearbox, prop shaft, diff, drive shafts, wheel bearings, rear brakes are all taking a little of your power. So you always end up with a lower figure at the Wheels. There is something wrong is you don’t.

     

    Rolling Road BHP figures will vary from day to day, Rolling Road to Rolling Road, and operator to operator. Rolling Roads should only be used to see if your vehicle is running under load correctly, so it’s a setup tool.

     

    Did you gain a power advantage from your first Power Run to the Last? If you did your Rolling Road was worth the money. If you went to the Rollers just to get a BHP figure for the PUB you have wasted you money, you are always better of use the Caterham figures.

     

    Anyway if you are looking for a PUB figure quote the Caterham 0-60 or the Caterham Power to Weight, and if anyone dares to question them, invite them to a track day

     

    Hope This Helps

     

    Chris

     

    PS I think 132 BHP on the rollers is good figure for a quoted 140 BHP car.

     

  7. Airflow Conditioner is the solution to all you winter battery blues. Cost less then £30 so its cheaper than a new battery. fit a fly lead with a 'in line' fuse with a connector into the battery and have the connector in the car. I use a RC car battery connector (and have for a couple of year with my Lotus Exige) cost from Maplin 99p. With this you can Condition you battery with the Bonnet on, doors closed (optional) and car cover on (optional) no problems.

     

    My Lotus Exige before the Airflow would be dead after two weeks, no problem however long you leave the car with the Airflow fitted. The same is true with the Caterham.

     

    The previous owner of my Caterham replaced the Battery every year, I have the receipts, at a cost of about £50 a year. I he had fitted an Airflow over winter then it would have been on the original.

     

    If you dont want Battery Blues buy an Airflow Conditioner.

     

    Chris...

    H15 SVN Get It!

     

    PS I am not paid, or employed by Airflow, just want you lot to stop bumping up Banner Battries profits.

  8. Mini's great a topic I have plenty of expreiance with. 😬

     

    Drilling the Petrol cap may be the only option ☹️ and you will never flush the tank properly. I tried once with a take I removed from the car, no petrol cap fitted, and try as I might to remove all the fuel from the tank there was still fluid in there *confused*. So solutions drill or cut the neck of the tank with a hack saw and change the tank with one from the scrap yard (its only one bolt and two wires). A new tank is about 70+VAT so a second hand one should be around 30 ish.

     

    Chris...

     

    PS My last Mini had an A Series making 119 BHP at the wheels on Peter Baldwins Rolling Road ( a name for the MINI People)

     

    Edited by - ChrisC on 6 Jan 2003 13:21:35

  9.  

    It's Just a New Chassis, so add £1K for, extras like powder coating suspenstion, painting, new bolts ect, ect. This list is endless.

     

    My guess is £3.5K for a strip of old chassis and make like new, or £5.5K for the same with a new chassis. This is based on doing all the sripping and rebuild work myself, powder coating by Arch and painting by a local company.

     

    No SVA needed for a rebuild, and I like not having a Cat to worry about at MOT time, so its a rebuild for me (but only when the outside of the car looks bad).

     

    Currently I am working on the chassis of my car cleaning off rust and repainting where I can until the rebuild takes place.

     

    Chris...

     

  10. New Chassis is about £3200+Vat and you have to surrender the old unit if you want to keep your original chassis number. Arch can add any mods you like during the repowder coating process. I would prefer a new unit, would make the job easier having both chassis side by side.

     

    Chris..

    H15 SVN Get It!

  11. Hi Anthony

     

    My chassis could do with powder coating in places, and my side panels have had the flared wing holes filled by its previous owner. Since the car looks very tidy at the moment I have decided to paint the areas on the chassis that need attention this year, and I will send it to arch later (maybe next year)

     

    I was at Arch today dropping off a few parts to be powder coated and I investigate the cost of re-powder coating the chassis, with new side and rear panels with the spare wheel carrier removed with Bruce. He quoted me 1800 + Vat.

     

    Your chassis will be powder coated as a new chassis so the result should be as good as new. Bruce has also informed me that the process was changed about three years ago to include a Zinc based primer, which should keep the rust at bay (for a little longer hopefully)

     

    Bruce advised that they tend to do a re-powder coat chassis at the rate of about one a month, so unless they are stock pilling customer chassis I take it that the process will take about a month before the chassis is returned.

     

    The cost I was quoted was for a completely stripped chassis, so there is a lot of work involved in this procedure (more than an initail build). The only good news is no SVA at the end of it

     

    Hope this Helps

     

    Chris.

    H15SVN Get It!

  12. Thanks for all the Info

     

    I will use CR500 and ACB10’s so the ACB’s are not for sale. 😬

     

    I have one final question.

     

    CR500 according to AVON web site come in three 13” wheel sizes 175/55, 195/55 and 205/55 fitting either a 6” or 8” rim dependent on size.

     

    I have 7” rims on the rear and 6” on the front.

     

    Which size CR500 should I use front and rear, and are my 7” rear rims OK or do I need a set of 8” rims

     

    Chris.

     

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